Looks like you just cut the frag glued it and took a picture. I would suggest getting stuff that aren't fresh cuts and have had a week or 2 heal time. Fresh cut stuff are the most sensitive to stress.
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Mj line 1200 may pump to much for the overflow to keep up. Mj 900 would probably be best. And a jabeo rw4/pp4 or wp10 would be all you need
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You even call it sand in your post.?
Don't be tricked by the bagged stuff just a marketing ploy. No different then dry sand with like a bacteria starter mixed in is all.
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Your cycle is no were complete. Please Read up on how the cycle traditions. A true cycle will go from high ammonia and no nitrites and nitrates to as bacteria grows and able to keep up with the demand the ammonia with change to nitrite and you will get so that ammonia you introduce will be turning to nitrite. So what they say is I think it should process either .25 or .5 worth of ammonia in 24h. Then the it will go to low/no ammonia high nitrites and no nitrate. Then nitrite will convert to nitrate so it'll go to no ammonia high nitrite rising nitrates as nitrites reduce nitrates rise until it's no ammonia no nitrites high nitrates then once nitrates reduces to manageable levels below 10ish your initial cycle is done. Them you have the maturing tank cycle which is to do with all the algea blooms and such. From the numbers I see you have the cycles has still only started due to ammonia not being turned into nitrites... the nitrates are probably only showing cause you bought a peice.of live rock.
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How old were the bulbs you switched from ad did you so them all at once.
Are they close it relation to each other or scattered throughout the tank?
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Take the glass lid off. That block a ton of light expecially when foggy/not 100% transparent. Also this will help with oxygenation and gas exchange. Other than only a 10 day cycle I would suggest fish problems to begin with. From what you have explained unless ammonia was high I don't think your fish would die in 3 days from anything else. It doesn't help you were away so you couldn't observe behavior. But I would strongly suggest not another fish for a few weeks to see what other one does and keep an eye on perameters.
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If they are indeed 350s then there is no control others than manual knobs. You can put them on timers but that's about it. And they are not as strong as radions. I would sell them and get something else. Of they are 360s then there able to be externally via 0-10v input.
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These cable raceways
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008VFAP/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1481259387&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cable+raceway
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Any conclusion I got some I'm trying to remove that looks exactly like it. CUC don't touch it H2o2 doesn't work... I have tried light out period and helps a little but can't do long enough to fully do something since I have coral in the tank.
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Vectras don't connect wireless with the WXM only reeflink. Only the radions and vortech pumps will connect to WXM hopefully in the future they will.
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