Shoelace

Cool nano and Cree mod!

Lol, just line up 30 milk cartons in a row. Wonder how long that would be.

Thanks, all. I hope I can keep things going. I have a horrible history of getting lazy. Does anyone around Columbia have any softies to sell? I've pretty much decided I'm not up to the challenge of growing the pretty sticks of calcium carbonate. I'm looking for colorful zoas, paly's, cloves, pulsing Xenia, green/pink sinularia, anything cool that sways with the current, etc. Thanks.

This is gonna be cool to watch!

Not sure how much cleaner it is, but I got this split loom at IKEA and it does the job. When I get the PicO, I'll make it even neater perhaps with a wire conduit from Home Depot.

Yes, I'm very happy with it. Recently, AI came out with the Hydra which is full spectrum, but is bigger. For the purposes of a small tank (and especially a cube), I think the AI Nano is great. Maxspect came out with a Nano Razor but the footprint is bigger.

As with all Pico's, it's got its own challenges, but I really like the size. I probably would go with the 8G if I had bought new. When I upgrade, I will be using the IM as a Q-tank.

It's been such a long journey... A short while back I was going to get back into the hobby. I was setting up a 25G cube but while I was tightening a leaky bulkhead... well, I don't want to talk about it... :( Please cheer me up. It's taken me a while to get back on the saddle. So I've decided not to set up a "larger" nano anymore. I just ordered a PicO Aquariums PicO I that will be placed on my kitchen counter. I really can't wait! In the meantime, I've set up a IM Nuvo Pico 4 from Craigslist in it's place to feed my addiction. Most of the equipment from the 25G build will go to the this and then the PicO. I guess I plan on a mixed reef with easy SPS, but I'm not sure yet. Tank specs: IM Nuvo Pico 4 (soon to be upgraded to a PicO Aquariums PicO I) AI Sol Nano Neptune Apex Controller with VDM MicroJet 450 (117 gph) Hydor Flo Rotating Water Deflector Cobalt NeoTherm 25W heater Tunze Osmolator Nano Radioshack 80mm cooling fan BRS dosing pumps for two-part I also just got some Kenko macro extension tubes for my Olympus micro four thirds camera that I have been testing. I'm slowly getting better.

LOL, thanks, but I don't think I'm there yet. My Jedi training is not yet complete.

I got a new camera a little while back, Olympus EPL-5 mirrorless micro-four-thirds. I'm just starting to learn how to use it. This is with the kit lens and cropping but I think I will buy a macro adapter.

Advice:

What's an undergravel filter?

+1

Cool, guys. Thanks for the input. On other forums, there were these guys who were adamant that I would see a regular cycle, but this does not seem to be the case.

Oh no!

So I've cycled my share of tanks. In the past it's been the "traditional" way with live rock that dies off a little, I go through the nitrogen cycle spikes, wait several months and then things are hunky dory. But this is the first time I've cycled with BRS Reef Saver rock in my 25G nano. It's dry. It's dead. No organic matter on it at all (unlike the BRS Pukani dry rock). So I've "cycled" for almost a month and a half with the help of a little fully cured rock from my old nano and ghost feeding, then adding a chromis and I have never seen any spikes. Nothing. Nada. The only think that seems familiar from my old cycling experience is that I got small diatom spots after a couple of weeks. So I researched more and found threads like this: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/289089-cycling-new-tank-question/ Since this is my first experience with dry rock, is it possible that I went slow enough that the little bit of live rock was able to handle the ammonia thus not triggering a cycle? Is it safe to assume that after almost a month there is some bacterial build up in the dry rock? I put some zoas in the tank to see how they would fare and they look very happy. I am trying to fend off my impatient streak, but with all my parameters looking OK, temptation is getting the better of me.

I love the shelf. It definitely gives the aquascaping a different flair that is not the "pile of rocks" look.

Fascinating. (Typed with Spock-like tone.) I would love to hear more discussion about this Aiptasia filter approach (or am I being punk'd)?

That is very interesting about the aptaisia. Can they propagate though the water column?

Better late than never. The first couple of shots are representative of the noise level. The last shot is right over the sump and it's exaggerating the return pump and the skimmer noise. But I think you all know what the level of a typical skimmer is so you can "calibrate" it with your own ears http://vimeo.com/67346212

Great. It was confusing to me at first but after trial and error I sort began to understand the internal logic of the Apex programming.

That is so sick! Love it.

However, I have learned it is irrational to argue with a boss...

IRCC, 0 is a valid value for ramp times. I think that is how I programmed my "non-ramp" lighting periods. I think unless you ramp down via a profile or turn of via an outlet, it just stays at the level at which the program last told it to achieve.

Hmm... Not sure if you need to layer in any power at all? The fixture should be plugged in all the time but the VDM would trigger the drivers to light the LEDs. I think he is using a virtual outlet just as a switch to run the profile. But DC8's aren't needed for virtual outlets.