Orion

Photos? How about a short video?? The blues were on so some of the fish colors don't show 100%. I took this the day after I got the fish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxlB-5opsOQ

Marco, My wife told me today the fish I got from you are some of the most beautiful marine fish I have kept so far. She says she can't stop staring at the tank, and that there is so much color and movement now. Thanks again for the fish. They are in good hands, and we hope to enjoy them for a very long time.

Here is how I have my 20L sump for a 57 Rimless First Chamber - Overflow (overflow pipe has a felt filter sock to prevent detritus buildup) and small Fuge with chaeto Apex Temp Probe Middle Chamber - Avast CS1 Skimmer BRS Single Media Reactor Two Heaters Return Chamber - Return Pump ATO Dosing pump lines Apex pH Probe There are so many different ways to do a sump, and its completely up to you which way you want to go. My small fuge has a lot of pods, sponges, etc growing in it so I like to have one. As you are planning your sump just be sure to leave plenty of room for future upgrades with equipment. You'll end up upgrading your skimmer, adding dosing pumps, Apex equipment, a reactor, etc...

Oh man I want a bigger tank so I can have butterflies.

Yes. The fixture was hung about 10.5" above the water line when I took those readings. It depends on the fixture, and bulb selection with regard to PAR output on T5s. ATI fixtures are simply the best out there as they provide the best cooling, and have the best reflectors. The light is an absolute PAR monster as I was getting 200 PAR on the sand almost 35" from the fixture! What I did to get my corals used to the light was put two layers of window screen across the top of the tank, and over the course of a month remove a layer every two weeks to see how they respond. So to answer your question, yes, if you are using an ATI fixture you can definitely bleach coral coming from LED. Most T5s are hung really high over a tank. Marco has his hung at least 20" over his frag tank, and if I could hang my light higher, I would.

Great meeting you as well! Let me know if you need any assistance setting up an Apex when you get one.

I have a DIY screen top with clear BRS netting. Has worked well so far! I took a video and sent it to Marco. All fish are out, eating and active. Nice feeling having a tank with fish that were all quarantined. Come to think of it all my fish except for two of them are from Marco.

I have a DIY screen top with clear BRS netting. Has worked well so far! I took a video and sent it to Marco. All fish are out, eating and active. Nice feeling having a tank with fish that were all quarantined. Come to think of it all my fish except for two of them are from Marco.

New fish added last night from Marco/ERC Pair of Pylei Wrasses - Gorgeous fish!!! 1 Blue/Green Chromis 1 Carberyyi Anthias I was torn if I should get a Burgess Butterfly or not, but they are not 100% reef safe so I decided to get the Pylei Wrasses instead. These fish will certainly add some color to the tank. I acclimated them last night with the lights off in a dim room, and can't wait to see them once the lights come on later today. Pics in a couple of days once they all settle in.

A few photos The start of a zoa garden Tank shots Acans (These look really good under Blue Plus and Actinics!) ORA Red Planet. Has some green in the middle that you can't see here.

+1. Just buy a new tank.

I did! Also have a couple of other fish on order.

LiveAquaria says 50 gallons minimum. Max size 6".

Can't wait to get mine!

I haven't updated this in over a month now, but here is what has been happening - Bubble algae. Growing and spreading throughout the rock work. Emerald crabs aren't eating it, and I can't reach in the areas were most of it is growing. Looking at possibly getting a small one spot foxface to fix the problem. SPS fading and losing some color. I think I have a handle on this now as the PO4 in my tank has been testing at extremely low levels. NO3 has also been non-existent. So I chalked it up to low nutrients, stopped using GFO, and I have been feeding more. The fading has stopped, and some color has started to return. Zoas! I am on a zoa kick at the moment. Started adding Zoas to the left side of the tank to create a garden. Pics soon.

I had some rust beginning to develop on a wet side a few months ago. Called Ecotech, and they sent me a free replacement.

Mine eat tiny cerith snails all the time. It'll eventually spit the shell out, but the snail will be gone

I hope so. I would first be quarantining it myself in a 20L with little or no algae for a few weeks. I wonder if I can feed it mostly bubble algae from the DT as a diet?

Didn't know Blue Tuxedo's kept it under control too. I may have to try the foxface as I am looking to add some new fish soon. I know it can't stay in my tank forever, so ill have to re-home it down the road. They are so hit or miss. I have tried 3 or 4 emeralds and none of them have ever eaten BA in my tank. What really bothers me is that I can't reach in any of the spots where the algae is really starting to get out of hand. So it looks like ill need the help of a foxface.

Please do!

Resurrecting this thread. Did you ever defeat your bubble algae issue? While I can't see much of it growing in the front of my tank on the rock I can certainly see it behind and underneath it - a lot of it! I have two emerald crabs, and they don't eat it. My tank isn't big enough for a foxface, and the rock is covered with coral making it hard to remove.

I would try a therapeutic dose of Cupramine for at least 21-28 days. Prazipro is mainly used to treat flukes, flatworms, etc... This sounds like ich, and Cupramine has been proven to be the most effective/safe medication against it.

I'll take one if any are available (or will be after QT)!

Are burgessi considered reef safe?

Bubble algae seems to still easily grow in the most nutrient free tanks.