AlanM

Wow nice.

If you'd like to try artemia nauplii on easy mode I have one of those Hobby brand black plastic hatchers and some dry eggs. It's super duper easy to hatch them and harvest them separate from the eggs within about 24 hours, and I'm fairly local to you. https://smile.amazon.com/Brine-Shrimp-Direct-Hatchery-Dish/dp/B079C6BN2B

Neat to see him kind of chewing on it a bit after getting it in the mouth.

It's encrusting over everything, I think. Floor, walls, dogs, etc.

Wonder if Matt Pederson would be interested in talking to you about any of these spawning events and your work to raise them and print parts to harvest the eggs and such. He's the editor of Coral, a former WAMAS speaker, and all around nice guy.

Wow, what all do you have spawning? I think you have banggai cardinals, porcelain crabs, and mandarin all spawning? You're definitely the happiest tank in WAMAS at this point, I'd say.

Use the trachy skeleton as an interesting substrate for zoas.

You can use fiberglass reinforced panel on the wall if you'd like. It's a bit institutional looking, but it is waterproof and easy to install if you aren't looking at it. I used it on my walls in the sump area in the basement.

Pectinia can extend some shockingly long feeding tentacles. The one I had in my tank could reach out 8 inches when it wanted.

It's great that the nem is healing up. I bet your alk shootup was because the nem bits got all of the coral mad. Not mad enough to lose tissue, but mad enough to stop growing and using carbonate ions for a bit. They might also be mad because you're messing with their light.

Nice! No build thread, just springs into existence fully formed!

This is now fixed. People can now reply to this to sign up to tour this amazing tank and fish room.

Fixed it! People can now post on that thread. The "Tank Tours" forum was inheriting the permissions of the "Announcements" category above it. The "Reply to Topics" permission was not set because we normally don't look for replies from members in the "Club News" forum which is also under Announcements. Anyway, I gave Tank Tours its own permissions and now people can reply.

I'm out now but I will check forum permissions tonight to see if I can figure out what's going on here.

Sounds like a good plan.

Yes, I built two of them with no 2x4 internal support using biscuit joints and glue, no screws. The joints don't hold any weight anyway, they just keep the panels from falling off. If you put the pieces together right it's absolutely rock solid. https://wamas.org/forums/topic/54660-alans-rimless-75-build/?tab=comments#comment-482911

It looks like you have a ball valve on the high drain and nothing on the low drain. Is that accurate?

how is that box installed on your tank and how is it plumbed into your sump?

It's a fun read. About fish tank sizes that all but one of us are never having. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/10/12/realestate/high-end-home-aquariums.html I wish they'd given Copps a call as someone who did it all himself and runs a better layout than anything described in the article.

Hah. I've only used a shop vac to finish emptying a tank I intend to sell. I've switched out sumps before, but for some reason never thought of it. I always ended up with water on the floor after siphoning out what I could and then using towels.

I think you're good in that last video. I believe any remaining noise is due to turbulence going from the drain chamber to the next chamber. I don't see any air bubbling, just some trickling noise. Is the square opening in the second box for a sock? I bet if you get a sock in there or something it will quiet down. It will also quiet down a little once you get some slime coat built up after running.

Yeah, don't add more pipe below the water surface until trying a few other things. The siphon is caused by the height difference between the water level in the external overflow box and the water level in the sump. Extra pipe below the sump water surface doesn't help. It's just extra length of round wall to hold in air before it can get out of the pipe and into your sump as a bubble that pops. I didn't say anything before, but the horizontal segments you put in your drain under the gate valve may compromise getting the full siphon going somewhat. You only have around 3 feet of vertical height (from the water level in the box to the water level in the sump) for the water to accelerate down the pipes. If you think about what needs to happen. You want the water moving as fast as possible due to gravity from the box down to the sump. That speed is what will bring the air with it (which wants to bubble in the other direction toward the ceiling if it's moving too slowly). The horizontal segment at the bottom is a "floor" that the water will have to hit and turn to continue pushing air along. Water is incompressible, so it will be a limit on how fast the stream can get going. If you google around horizontal runs and BeanAnimal you'll see lots of people with problems starting the siphon pipe with a horizontal run. And your horizontal run is "after" the gate valve, which is where the water will be going the slowest. The gate valve is a variable reducer that will be mostly closed once the water siphon is set up. It might be too late, but if it's possible I would replace the 90 degree elbows with 45's and a slanted section with the gate valve at the sump end of it (rather than before the sloped section) if you have trouble getting all of the air out. The closer the gate goes to the sump the better.

I think you're still getting air out of the full siphon. Do you see air going into it at the top? Eventually it should get no air coming out the bottom if no air is coming in the top. It's the air that's noisy. So my advice for tuning the thing would be to completely close the gate valve. That will ensure that the emergency can handle an emergency as well. Then slowly start opening the gate valve. As you open the valve it will eventually start kind of hissing out small air bubbles and will eventually "flush" all of the air out of the line. Once it flushes, close it back a bit and that's your set point. Keep an eye on the water level in the top box so it doesn't empty. If you leave it flushing it will eventually drain the box and you'll be back where you started with a siphon line full of air. A 1 inch drain can take a staggering amount of flow when in full siphon.

BTW, the emergency pipe can go down under if you want, but it should also probably terminate near the surface. It won't have a big impact on noise while running, but if the main gets clogged that one needs to be able to convert into a full siphon so you don't want anything preventing that from happening. Feel free to have the water level below the emergency with that pipe up pretty high so it's totally dry most of the time and ready for action if bad things happen. It doesn't have to trickle all the time like the "open channel" in a BeanAnimal design.

For a full siphon pipe you want the pipe to terminate just barely under the sump water level for the reason you guessed. It will never purge if the air needs to push out more water on the bottom end than there is water on the top side pushing on it. Try to get it around 1/2" under the water surface. Normally the drain chamber has a fixed water level anyway, so it shouldn't be too hard.