mr.x-ray

I would say most do not. Unless you find a reason for dosing these things. Most should not have to with regular water changes with a quality salt.

No no. It's off then on.

I know some people on here really do not like API. But I do like their Calcium and Nitrate. Everything else Salifert.

I would agree with Tom. Testing daily is a waste unless you have massive demand in your system or just dosed to change previous levels. I would dose to get Ca to 400 and test to confirm that, then wait a week at least. Is your Po4 correct?!?! .036-.064? Even still you need some rowaphos or something.

Excellent info.

+1

+1

Nope. Love the LED's. My DT is LED for over a year now and the frag tank is about to go there from 2x250w 14k Phoenix's and 4x T5's. The cost differences is made up some times in the first bulb replacement. Add up approx. what I need to spend on bulbs for a full replacement this time and add that to a new MH hood/set up. T5's every 6 months and MH's every year or less. I had one neon green birds nest bleach but it recovered in about two weeks. If you are transitioning do it slowly.

These things are insane!!! Glad I swooped up the last bit. Marcos, your gonna have to give me heads up next time before you post.

Not sure what you are gaining by having a back up heater. I have all of mine on one circuit and set at >77 off and <77 on. If you were insistent on a secondary heater I would make the biggest heater the primary and back ups at only .1 or .2 less then desired temp. The smaller heater as primary would be on longer trying to keep up. Also, not sure why people want such a swing in temp. eg <77 then on and <77.5 then off. IMO this is stressful for the livestock. <60 then off in not sure what this is for. So, IMHO if you want two separated heaters. 1) biggest heater as primary 2) program back up heater to come on at .1 less then big one. 3) Set temp > and < at same. 4) no defer or min or <60 in programming.

I think you are right. I'm excited.

B, H, K, M & R sold please. Sending PM

BB. I hate my crushed coral now.

Radioactive dyes in the zip ties. Helps keep your water clear.

I was just down in Richmond yesterday. Atlantis is close until 5/1. I went to Fish World also. They do not have much coral at this time. But it is a very cool store. Huge display tanks. Joe is very knowledgable.

And on and on and on.... If your budget and wife will not allow a bigger tank at this time, don't push it.

OK George. lol

I like the Ocean Wonders plugs and tiles. QR has them. The stem on the plugs can be broken off easily if you need when glueing in a permanent spot.

Here is my Squam. It's roughly 10". Also have 2 Dersa's that are 8" and 6" and a Maxima that is 6".

+1

Depends on where you live or want to go. There are several stores around. We are lucky, pretty much every corner of our area is covered by at least one store.

I had 2 large PJ cardinals that just showed back up last week. Was about October the last time I saw them. Must of been on vaca during the bad winter.

Seams to be a common thing with big restaurant big tanks. The most recent was a trip to AC. We decided to eat at Rainforest Cafe'. All the fish were tore up in varying degrees. "Let's see how many large stressed out fish we can stuff in this tank and feed only once a day".

Not 100% on this, bit this makes sense to me. If you got another EB8 when you bought the full apex, I would plug those in separate the same way as running lite is and into you computer with cable and do all the programming you want on the new unit copying your lites configuration including network info. Once that is done unplug lite and unplug new apex from new EB8 and plug in new Apex into same port on old EB8. Just my best guess.

Clear. It's not going to matter in a year.