PotomacBoater

I really like this design (and the rock salt to create caves is inventive) My tank came with a molded rock overflow cover. But when I upgrade, I'm already thinking about how I can reproduce the effect Thanks for sharing.

my cerith's die within 2 weeks but I still have nassarius left in my tank after 2 months. (I only see them when I put garlic pellet in there, and they come running) I add them 25 or more at a time and I expect 50% loss. obviously there is enough to eat for them, even with 2 turbo's and some emerald crabs. reefcleaners.com has lots of Clean up Crew options. I never get their pre-made packages (too many hermits, and you already have some) but you can mix and match different inverts and find what works for you some are less then .10 each in quantity, so you don't have much to lose

The old owner said he was in his tank for a year+ He isn't eating any prepared food, but I've got a good pod population and he is "nipping" at the rocks just not sure what he's eating. I'll keep watching him hopefully he will get more Outgoing.

I got an African Leopard Wrasse from another member last week. (I did not QT it) he immediately buried himself in my DT sand (as expected) After a few days he started coming out a little bit at a time (as expected) but what I didn't expect is ... he swims along the bottom for a few seconds, and then stops and "falls over" he is acting like he has Narcolepsy - he slowly rolls onto his side for a few seconds, and then gets up and repeats. Every time he does it, I look to see if he is dead (he looks like he is just lying on the sand) but he is breathing, and his eyes are moving This has been going on for days. I've read a few articles about leopards acting "drunk" I haven't seen him eat anything other then what he is nipping off the rocks But I don't want to scare him with a syringe full of brine for fear of scaring him into the sand I also didn't want to put him in a bare bottom hospital tank, since I'm worried it would stress him out to not have sand. Any thoughts on what he has and how to treat it? Every other fish in the tank is active, no one seems to be messing with him (none of them are aggressive) I just don't want them to get sick too

I'm a little confused about "balling" I thought it was the pre-curser to what we now call 2 part (why is it called 2 part if it has 3 parts of cal/alk/mag???) Don't balling and 2-part both use the same chemicals, with trace minerals added? or am I missing something?

I love the doser I bought for my 90G LPS tank. The other options I considered (other then manual) were ... Wet up a drip system with the valves from home depot (another post somewhere here about how to do it) or get a very precise digital timer and an aqualifter type pump. (in the long run, the doser is absolutely the easiest)

But you can use an AC iii to act as a digital controller, correct?

I added a bag of Fluval carbon in my sump and it made my water much clearer you can't rush cycling, etc but once all that is done, carbon can remove some of the bad stuff

Is two D120's better then 1 IT2080?

The research I've done point to two options Either "build your own" - cheaper, more customizable, but might need a little more skill http://www.rapidled.com/standard-90g-tank-dimmable-kit/ or get in on the Evergrow group buy (either two D120's or possibly just one IT2080) Great price by getting in on the group buy ...

One of my favorite's also obviously

I have a Teklight 6 Bulb fixture (8" off the water) 48" 54W bulbs I have some high light demand corals - Maxima and RBTA and I want to get the most out of ordering new bulbs I assume BRS and reefgeek are both good bulb sources? I was THINKING about (in order) Blue + Actinic + Coral + 10,000K Purple + Blue + But I am kinda guessing. I want the colors to "pop" but I also want enough spectrum that the higher demand corals are satisfied. How long until I would have to replace these bulbs? I want to go to LEDs, but I hope this gives me a 9 month reprieve while I buy/build/steal a nice LED hood. Thanks for any advice

tightline So you are just farming pods in a gallon jug with an airline? I tried that, and got mixed results (the water didn't go clear in the first 2 months, so I assume the pods died) Did you have to add liverock or anything for the ammonia export? or are you doing water changes? Farming pods outside the fuge seems like the fastest way to breed them.

This is my first RODI system, so this is the first time I'm changing the filters its at 7 tds now I normally hear 5-10 is getting high (some people are more regimented than others)

My TDS is creeping up, so I think its time to replace my DI And since the system was bought used 6 months ago. I figured I would replace all the other filters also. Will all (most) 10" Filters work on any RODI Unit? I run a PurelyH2O Optima CA RO/DI. Do I need to buy from them, or are theFilterGuys/Local stores the same filters? (any suggestions on good, cheap RODI Filters?) I assume you can refill your own DI filter or buy it prefilled the first is cheaper (but might decrease the life of the DI left in the bag because of exposure to air?) the second method is easier but more expensive? Do I need to buy a Chlorine/Choramine test kit? I think DC uses it, I'm just not sure if that is the cause of increased ammonia in my tank, even after a waterchange. Thanks!

I'ld be curious to see some PAR results with black vs. clear. If anyone has tested this in the past

Does it cover damage to your home caused by hundreds of gallons of water during a tank failure?

I liked the episode (just happened to be flipping the channels) I thought it was funny that hours later, a "WTB Mantis" post popped up ;-) I'm certainly not gonna put one in my DT, but the next iteration ???

Assuming an insump skimmer ... The skimmer rate and overflow rate do not need to match. Set your overflow at between 6 and 10x turnover per hour by buying the appropriate return pump (accounting for head loss) and with the appropriate overflow box/piping. My sump has overflow water entring the center area for the skimmer, then overflows thru the bubble trap to the return, and then on the way up to the display it hits a "T" to the left comparment with the refugium, that trickes back into the skimmer section. this means cleaner water into the fuge, but it also means that pods coming out of the fuge might go thru the skimmer before getting to the return. The second common configuration is overflow to first partition with the skimmer, then fuge, then return. but the rate thru the fuge in this case has to equal the rate of the return pump, where the above method can be throttled down. Other people will tell you that the fuge should be before the skimmer, because overflow water contains all the stuff that the critters in the fuge need to eat. Its all a matter of opinion. Water going past the skimmer that isn't skimmed is not bad. it will come back and get skimmed later

Hornet is right, that works fine I didn't use this exact setup http://www.amazon.com/Watts-K-1-Polyethylene-Icemaker-25-Feet/dp/B000BQUF44/ref=sr_1_34?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1352918400&sr=1-34&keywords=1%2F4+in+valve But you can see the type of valve and it comes with the saddle and lots of hose to get from the RODI to the reservoir

If you check out my build thread ... http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/50883-matts-first-90g-tank/page__view__findpost__p__431274#3 I talk about installing my rodi under the sink. I added a "T" off the cold water line and the sink still works just fine http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Supply-Stop-Extender-Tees/dp/B0078S1Y0M I did add a valve to keep water out of the RODI when not in use On the Drain, CoralHind suggested ... http://www.airwaterice.com/product/WE-CU114B-Q/Drain-Saddle.html Again, the sink still works and drains normally Nothing complicated, and fully removable if you move.

I guess there is always more to learn out there. (I've never read about the "transfer" method before) So are the general QT options ... a) Treat everything when it goes into QT (does this stress the fish with all the medications?) b) Treat nothing unless your see signs of disease (I assume this process requires a longer QT period) c) Transfer method - doesn't require medication, but more of a manual process (is this common in WAMAS?)

I've placed 3+ orders with Wayne, and everything has been delivered healthy and in good condition. I have him hold all my stuff for a few weeks after he gets them to quarantine them and send pictures of how they are doing along the way. Wayne has personally delivered all my livestock to my house so they don't have to get shipped a second (or third) time He even went out of his was to make a house call to my tank while I was out of town when my fish rolled in sand and it looked like ick. I've been very happy with the unique selection of livestock and supplies. I will continue to shop from SaltwaterWrox (and you should TOO) Thanks Wayne!!!

is the obvious difference the spoon? and the colors are easier to see? I have no idea how old my kit is

I was trying to use outside light today but I wouldn't exactly call today sunny. ;-) Sounds like different opinions on the Hannah meters. But haven't seen any other products suggested (other then Salifert, ofcourse)