spankna

ApexJr

I am waiting for the glue to dry then I am pulling them out. I am also bringing the door up about a 1/2inch before I paint it.

Tonight I finally got around to building my doser stand. Here are the early stages of the build.

Jan, great thread! For anyone having issues id'ing "spots" just remember if the spots remain after quarantining in hyposalinity, they are likely not a parasite. I traced my bacterial infection back to a LFS supplier who kept all livestock in hyposalinity. After contacting them, they found that their nets were spreading an bacterial infection. The supplier was/is the largest supplier of high end fish and coral.

I didn't find any bad reviews on the fixture but then again I didnt find any real reviews on the fixture. I don't like it because you can't dim it therefore you are stuck with its color. At least with the Sunpod you have you can change bulbs if you want different looks. I still say fix the Sunpod.

Marinescene has a single radion over a 40b. Check out their setup before giving up on a single Radion.

I looked long and hard for my light. Started out only wanting LEDs but ended up with a tried and true MH Sunpod. From what I gathered if you don't get a Radion(was too expensive for my blood), the next best thing is the Mazarra P-Series IMO. The wiring, controller, and mount is less than perfect but the light spectrum is far better than most. They run 5w Crees as well as a 420/460nm Actinic LED. If the total setup of the P-series is too expensive check out their X-Series. Slightly different LEDs but kinda close to the P-Series. I would stay away from the SOL. It was my first choice for looks and price but there are alot of horror stories about it because it doesn't have the spectrum needed.

My vote is fix the sunpod. Or give it to me and ill fix it. http://www.marineandreef.com/150_Watt_Ballast_Current_USA_p/rcu01907.htm

The carbon is there temporarily just to make sure water will flow through a granular substance. The bag(11.75 oz) of chemipure I have is too large for the tube so I cannot run it at this time. The smaller size bag(6.5oz) of chemipure should fit. I measured the carbon at 3/4cup(6oz) with some room to spare.

No one has any input? I went ahead and finished the mini "reactor like" tube anyway. Maybe a finished project with pictures will explain more. Decided to try it out with some carbon for now. I have filter foam above and below the carbon to hold it in place.

Id like anyones opinion on this. I feel like my chemipure is just sitting in my sump doing nothing but having water flow around it. I wanted to build something to force water through it. The simpliest place I could think of was the relief valve in my return. Water is always coming out of it so I put together a little reactor like tube to force water through the chemipure. Heres what it looks like. This setup requires no extra pump and was simple to make but there is one huge drawback. If the setup clogs, my pump will overtake my overflow. Luckily I have tested that even if my return pump chamber empties to the tank, the tank will not overflow. What do you guys think?

I did a little DIY'ing this weekend. I found a walkthrough here on WAMAS to control a Eheim feeder via an aquacontroller. Simply put when a 12v signal is applied the setup, the feeder performs a single feed. http://www.wamas.org/forums/blog/13/entry-46-diy-automatic-feeder-for-aquacontroller/ Here's a short little video of my completed unit.

I just saw the pics of them from your page. Very cool.

I just watched two videos where a DSLR sensor (1) failed and (2) aquired a permanent pink crosshair after a laser was shined in the lens. Both were at concerts with laser lights shining at the crowd.

I totally imagined going into the kitchen one night to find this.