Fazio92

Dang Dave, so sorry to here this! Let me know if you need help rebuilding! -Anthony

If you are running carbon constantly with a MH 8" above the water you may be bleaching the corals out. Sometimes the carbon can polish the water so much that it increases the intensity of the light hitting the corals; which they may not be use to. Just a thought, as this happened to me. Once i took off the carbon everything colored back up just nicely and i never used supplemental lighting, only halides. -Anthony How's this for "pop" with just a 400w SE halide:

Sorry to hear that :( Check out the one valeria has for sale, looks nice

Sent you a PM.

And you're right down the street I was going to pick one up from Scott tomorrow, but this would save me an hour round trip. The only problem with just the volute would be that i couldn't get all the dimensions and spaces all lined up without the motor body etc... Mainly a spacing issue and figuring out where to configure the pump once in place, at least i think so.

Perfect, Thanks! Just PM me your info and availability. -Anthony

Hey Everyone, Just wanted to see if anyone had a spare Reeflo Dart that i could borrow for a day or two for a mockup for my new system. I am running a Dart on my temporary setup now, just don't want to have to break it down until I actually start the full transfer over of systems. I just need to finish the intake for the pump side of the plumbing and then all the plumbing will be complete. It would be very helpful if i could just use an actual Dart for mockup to get all the fittings right and then just do a quick transfer over whenever i actually start-up the tank. Let me know if you have one lying around that i could borrow for a day or two. Thanks! -Anthony

Josh, This is exactly what happened to me after the move. I calibrated and re-calibrated my pH probes as it was reading something like 8.6+ and it was a brand new probe. My CaRx compensated for the increase in pH and pumped CO2 constantly, then come to find out all my SPS died. Used a chemical pH test kit and found that my probe was reading 8.76 and was actually 7.6!!! The probe was fine, the calibration solutions were bad! I would highly suggest testing with a chemical test kit and buying new calibration solution and possibly a new probe if old. If there is a digital error somewhere you really want to catch it early. Here was my thread on it: http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/46144-why-is-my-ph-86/ -Anthony

I run mine 24/7 -Anthony

That's exactly what i was looking for! It's essentially like a DIY ato sensor, but the water is closing the circuit not to mechanical pieces touching, right. Rig it up the same way as an ATO to the breakout box, just the 2 wires per sensor. Easy enough if i'm reading into this correctly. Thanks! -Anthony

I have a breakout box, just didn't know how to do the waterbug part or what portions of the waterbug system i needed.

Yeah, still need something if i'm not home, so i get an email. That would shut off the RO, but i still need something goes wrong somewhere else on the tank. Slow leaks can easily be refilled by ATO and not noticed by a low sump sensor. If a sensor was on the floor that is an instant response.

Yeah, i've already done that, but my floods tend to be due to me leaving an RO valve on too long, etc.. Just a piece of mind thing, especially if I know its on the floor vs. evaporation (as i get those alarms too frequently, and tend to scare me after all my mishaps).

I've made 2 DIY dimmable LED fixtures that i run through the VS ports on my Apex and works great, just like the Radion (simulation wise). I'm sure you could just DIY a strand (minimum enough to run a driver correctly) then just program it to to run on time/day cycles, ramps, etc... Just a thought. I did find it very time consuming making the VS ports matchup to the CAT5 wires to find the right voltage, but it was still a fun learning project. -Anthony

Unfortunately, they don't sell one...I thought that would be a no brainer on their end, guess not.

Hey Everyone, Just wanted to see if anyone has ever build a DIY leak detector for their controller (Apex, ACIII, RKE, etc.)? I am finding very little google'ing besides using waterbugs, etc... Others have said they have rigged up some sort of sensor that is connected through a breakout box, but i can't find plans/instructions anywhere. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! -Anthony

If i only had a few ferrari's and a 20,000gal tank...

If you want a workhorse of a skimmer i'm selling my MRC MR2 that I ran on the 92gal, rated to 300gal and can also upgrade later on to ?gal. I'll give you a package deal. http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/47736-fs-mrc-skimmer-sump-waste-collector-chiller-850gph-pump/ -Anthony

yeah its a wavysea. Thanks!

He did, but the head unit no longer exists...

Hey everyone, I acquired a Wavysea with the purchase of my tank and come to find out that it plugs into some sort of a head unit to operate. Has anyone ever tired splicing the wires and just running it without the head unit, or know how to (my electrical experience is no match for this )? If not, does anyone have a Wavysea that i could plug into to see if this thing even works. Let me know if you can assist. Thanks -Anthony

Agreed, I use them for my breeding. They are definitly not cheap though initially, but larvae and corals love them! -Anthony

LOL, no worries. glad you were able make it anyhow

Thanks! I will be using 3 - 400w Lumenarc III's suspended with aircraft cable.

Just a pic of what we accomplished yesterday 1200lbs lifted 42" high, not bad -Anthony