Fazio92

I use to do two-part which worked great for my coral growth for the past few years, until recently i added a ca-reactor. About a month ago i hooked it up set all the parameters on teh ACIII and done! Before my Alk was 6dKH, Ca 350ppm, and pH ~8.1-8.3. Now, and without any fluctuation, Alk 12dKH, Ca ~420-440ppm, and pH 8.3-8.38! The coral also shows it! They were growing semi fast efor, but now there going crazy! I had a piece of rainbow mont that had a .75" gap between two sections and within a week the gap was nearly inivisible and now completely closed! (i could literally see a little bit of growth change each day, which i have never seen before) Also, IMO its just one thing that i dont need to worry about anymore or in terms of supps, going out every few weeks and dropping $40 just for two-part. It's made it much easier on my life, since work is hectic, but i really want my tank to thirve and grow without me forgetting or not having the time for daily dosing (though peristaltic dosing is good, but can also be expense in the lone run). Just as a thought as well, i use Kalk in conjuction with the reactor and was also using it before i added the ca reactor as well. Hope this helps!! My second best investment for my tank besides the ACII!!! -Anthony

Thats what i was expecting, but i have never had wrasses before and didn't really know their dominance rituals, especially since they are so young and really both females.

So, i recently picked up two juvenile Halichoeres melanurus wrasse for my tank to take care of some red planatarus flatworms. I decided to get the two, because since they were both juvenile (female/ hermaphrodites), i figured they would get along and one would turn into the male sometime in the near future and i would have a cool pair. Well, i put the one (A) in, then the other (B), and they started to swim together, then "A" started to chase "B" whenever it tried to get near "A". FYI, neither have a problem with any of the other fish in the tank at all. So, in other words, all "B" wants to do is have a little buddy to swim around with (i.e. "A"), but "A" just isnt nice about it. "B" actually has never retaliated against "A", he just gets bulllied. Has anyone had this experience with a pair of Halichoeres melanurus before? Any input would be great! I just want to know if this is normal and "A" will eventually become the male, or should i split them? There is no physical damage, just chasing at the moment. Thanks for your help -Anthony

have you thought about using black silicone and painting it on? I have seen that done plenty of times and it comes out very nice, plus it's safe! -Anthony

+1 as long as you place the heater low enough in the sump, to the point where no matter what it is under water, you're golden! It's all about water being a good insulator vs air not, allowing the heater to over heat and burnout.

Mine is about 2-3" throughout the tank, and i've had it that way in all of my tanks throughout the past 9yrs with no problem at all! knock on wood:)

LOL GO HOKIES!!

Hi I still have not recieved my card and i sent my info to you on the 17th, didn't know if it got lost or forgotten. Thanks -Anthony

I should be able to make it depending what time. Afternoon? Evening? -Anthony

Also the problem is that they can preform sexaul and Asexual reproduction; where they can also preforming budding at the pedal. More then likely the chemicals that melt them away, only attack the tenticles and tube, which are not requried for reproduction; hence why they more then likely will show up again in a few weeks/months.

+1, i have used all those treatments to "melt" them away before too, but they eventually come back unless you have a natural predator to feast on them. From my experience, peppermints were my best investment. I would actually watch them at night pick at the aptasia and pull them out of the tiny rock crevices! It was a good feeling knowing that they were being taken care of, without adding chemicals to my tank, that only temporarily fixed the problem.

Have you tried peppermint shrimp? There is a specific species of peppermint that eat aptasia. I had a pretty bad infestation roughly 6 months ago, then added 6 peppermints and they were completely gone within a few weeks. Haven't seen a single one since, and i had hundreds! Also, its size dependant, the bigger the aptasia the bigger the shrimp you need to actually attack it. I got several very large and several sm/md. Hope this helps! Good luck Good old biological control!

Can anyone recommend a Vet that I could get interceptor from for my redbug infestation? The SPS are stressing and i need to take care of this quick. Thanks

I'm all for it! We use to do that in the Southwest Virginia Reef Club and it was a great time, which eventually turned into great friendships over the years and just plain fun times with everyone. My zip is 22102

I use striaght "PVC Cement" nothing special, the terribly bad smelling type, that uses a little paintbush built into the lid. After bonding the pieces together I just let it sit for a few hours outside to let the fumes dissipate, before letting my tank water hit it. I've been doing it that way for years with no problem. I've never heard of anyone using the one you are referring to though, but that's just with my experience. Good luck!

I would LOVE to have a frag please! -Anthony

Awesome! Thanks. Let me know when your free and i'll swing by.

Anyone know of a LFS in the NOVA/ rockville area that would carry pH calibration solution for pH 4.0? I already tried Aquarium One, they were out any others?

Yeah, i definitly think i need to flush the reactor considering it read completely different from the tank. Have you ever heard of a controller reading something like that though? 96.4? I would think they would be set to only read a pH from 0-14? Oh well, do you know any LFS that might have the calibration solution in stock?

Ok, so i picked up a geo calcium reactor last night and i plugged the pH probe into the ACIII and it read 96.4pH ?!?!? So then i took it out of the reactor and tested my tank against the other pH probe in my sump (which read 8.33) and the probe from the reactor read 10.0. So, my question is i know that i need to calibrate the probe, but with which solutions? Should i use the 4 & 7 since i'll be looking for a lower pH in the reactor? Also, being that it read 96.4 (umm i'm pretty sure the pH scale ends at 14.0, lol) could the probe just be bad? Any theories, help, etc.. all is appreciated! -Anthony

I paid for my membership at the summer frag fest and have yet to recieve my card. If there is any info you need from me please let me know. Thanks -Anthony

That should definitly be enough room between the head and sand. even if you mount it about 3/4 the way up the tank that will allow for flow to break teh surface some for better evap, + the current will cycle across and curl down and back around

I have an MP40W on my 92corner bow and it works great! astetically speaking, imo i think its the best looking powerhead on the market and since there are no wires inside the tank it blends very well. As for flow, i've notice that the water flow disperses with about a 90degree + angle after about 5inchs past the head unit, and then increases indefinitly until it hits the other side of the tank and creates a reverse/ dispersal flow. I think that you probably could get away with putting in on one of the back sides, but really its not that bad looking on a side pane. The flow the vortechs create allows you to place it in different spots and can be adjusted by gph accordingly and other wave settings. Again, this is what i have found out from using a vortech and some of my other buddies too. and if your not pleased, they resell for about the same new!

Great Frag Fest! I am new to the area and the club, and had a great time meeting everyone! Definitely one of the best and largest clubs i've been in yet!!