ridetheducati

Did you miss this bit of information... "The one rule to never violate is keeping two dominant males of the same species together. This might work for a while, but surely will not end well. Furthermore, unless you are an experienced keeper, I would not advise two males of the same species together. While it is possible to have a dominant and sub-dominant male in the same system, please don’t give it a try unless you know what you’re doing. Males of different species can be kept together, within the same genus (there’s a few species/species combination exceptions) or between different genuses. The system must be large enough however, say at least 100 gallons or so. Females of any species/genus will almost always mix just fine. A pair/trio/etc of one species may also be kept with the same of another species, and often works quite well as the males will be too pre-occupied with the conspecific females to pay attention to much else. However, as I said before, there is no guarantee a female will stay female, and may transition to male for various reasons. Sometimes this now sub-dominant male will “work things out” with the dominant male, other times they will not and you’ll end up one less fish. Again, an observant aquarist is required and one should intervene when necessary."

Be prepared to put your game face on, sent PM.

7 and 10 will work, but better is 4 and 7. The reactor will most likely be working in the areas of 6.0 - 7.0.

Get a reactor that can separately adjust the most important factors, the effluent and pellet action. Having the flexibility to completely adjust the reactor will avoid some of the problems hobbyists face when implementing bio-pellets.

I built my home theater room, with nine foot screen, from the studs up to sound treatments and bass traps on the wall. My sub goes to 16hz, but I run it at 18hz. Very crisp bass that penetrates the body to the bone.

Cannot forget the 12" sub that goes down to 18hz to feel the thunder.

Marco, Have you seen this... http://www.derkroon.com/store/products/digital-flow-diverters

I was never a fan of Fish-Roulette. Sorry to hear about the outbreak. Prazi, Prazi, and Prazi, for 10-14 days.

Some hobbyist use dehumidifiers around their reef system.

http://www.greedehumidifierrecall.com/ProductEntry.aspx

External skimmers love to be direct fed. Skimmers want the dirtiest water possible. Where is the dirtiest water you ask? In the overflow; therefore, plumb the overflow directly to the skimmer.

One other thought. Check availability of the Eheims, because Deltec modifies their Eheims, you cannot use a regular Eheim. Can you get a replacement and at what cost. Also, get a few extra impellers.

Do you plan to gravity feed the skimmer? If not, use an Eheim 1260. The AP702 is an older model, but still is a very good skimmer and if my memory serves me correctly, it can handle a 200 - 300g easy. The two Eheim pumps are very good and should be silent. How much water volume are you cleaning? Bottom line: I would run it on my system.

Various encrusting Monti Caps, numerous Milles, Granulosa, Del Fuega, and Red Dragon doing well. I have a total of roughly 33 corals and 2 or 3 are not meeting expectations. The Bonsai is growing, but it is not holding the deep purple color; looks more like a tri-color. I briefly had the Bonsai in the old system, which was powered by MH and the color was deep purple with green polyps. Under LEDs it is brown and blue with green polyps. I moved it around a few times, no change. A few posts ago, I mentioned the use of Rox in my system. I am finding that Rox is EXTREMELY aggressive on an ULNS w/carbon dosing. The plan is to move the Bonsai to a lower level and reduce Rox to one cup and change every six weeks.

I hate posting pictures because the LEDs do not show well. The tank is a crisp white with a hint of blue, probably in the range of 12 -14k. My neighbor says it is more 10k, which I do not agree. Also, for the sake of scale, the Imperator is 7 inches long and the SPS table in the middle has an 8 inch diameter.

Everything is doing well. I previously mentioned that my Garf Bonsai and Bali Tri-color are not growing as fast as the other corals, no change, and not worth worrying about. Colors are excellent across the board. I may evict those corals and make room for new candidates. I have learned how to tweak my colors by manipulating the Rox carbon. Three cups of Rox and colors are on light side; one cup of Rox renders near perfect colors. Lighting plays a large role in the overall health of a system, water quality is arguably more important than lighting. When solicited, I recommend hobbyist to maintain high quality water with stable parameters and then focus on dialing in their lights, especially LEDs. I keep my lights 10" above the water line and it provides excellent coverage and PAR/PUR penetrates deep into the tank. I can get 300-400 PAR to the sandbed if I needed it, which I do not. D120 LEDs do not have deficiencies in the radiation department. My rule of thumb is one D120 at 10" will provide adequate light for a 20" x 20" area. For my tank with two braces, eight D120 do not make sense and would be overkill.

I have six D120s. Currently running blues at 100% and whites at 75%.

My light configuration is 12 - 14k at 100% on each channel. My current running configuration of 100% Blue and 75% White looks like 18k.

My schedule: 1200 - 2100 100/75

Adding Tangs simultaneously is a good method, but is only successful if they are ready to be introduced at the same time. How big is your quarantine tank? Singular or multiple quarantine tanks? Is it a suitable size to hold the Tangs for 8 - 10 weeks?

Run GFO.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/

Pale corals. Have you tried amino acids? Aminos will darken pale coral tissue.

Quantum out of stock. F&F and BRK is too far. Appreciate the suggestions.