ridetheducati

Dont be shy, I know there is more out there.

Absolutely. It works both ways.

Dose Sodium Nitrate or Potassium Nitrate. Stay in the 2 - 5 ppm range. Anything above this range and green nuisance algae will become an issue. The goal is to have just enough Nitrates available as bacteria needs Nitrate and Phosphates available. Phosphates will begin to slowly drop. IMHO, I have seen Phosphates at 0.05 ppm drop to zero in two weeks.

The HI 713 Hanna Phosphate checker range is 0.00 - 2.50 ppm. Not sure how you arrived at 30 ppm.

N - Nitrate, P - Phosphate, and Si - Silicate. I am referring to the Redfield ratio. Generally speaking, if a system has cyano problems chances are nitrates are low and phosphates are elevated. Reverse this condition and cyano will magically disappear.

Food for thought... Cyano out competes green algae for P at low N:P ratios; Green algae out competes cyano for P at high N:P ratios; and Diatoms out compete green algae for P at high Si:P ratios. Hint: Slightly raise nitrate levels.

Opinions related to what, cost, effectiveness, experience level, strengths/weaknesses. Can you be more specific? What are your current levels? According to your signature, you maintain LPS and softies; this type of setup loves elevated nutrients.

Your right, I updated the thread.

Potassium (K) This element is the second reason why I changed salt from Instant Ocean to Red Sea (Blue) a couple years ago. The primary reason is alkalinity levels, story for another time. I like to keep my system K levels in the natural saltwater 390 - 400 ppm range. Potassium seems to pull my SPS coral colors together, especially Blue and Purple. If you are using a salt with low K, simply test using Salifert and slowly bring levels up to the recommended range. I do not recommend the Red Sea Potassium kit because it is very difficult to execute. My system consumes approximately 25 ppm of K per month. Dose system with Brightwell Potassium monthly. As with any product, follow manufactures instructions.

Never used a Iron test kit. I rely on the Green Monti Cap and Raspberry Nasuata (Yellow) as indicators. When the Monti Cap no longer has that evergreen look, dose Iron and when the Nasuata begins to show signs of Green, cut back on Iron. Note, always watch for nuisance algae when dosing Iron. Do not dose if system has cyano or other nuisance algae.

BTW, I shared the K dosing regimen in the SECRET thread. There are some gems in that thread. Potassium, Iron, and Iodine works well when water quality is high.

I responded to your PM. Note what your tank looked like before you begun dosing K. It will be a reference point going forward. If you are using a salt that is low in K, like Instant Ocean, plan to supplement your tank monthly. The good thing is K generally drops slow like Mg, monthly dosing should be adequate. The Salifert test kit works well, DO NOT use the Red Sea version unless you enjoy poking yourself in the eyes.

When I thought I had this camera thing resolved, more crap. What I see is not what I get. This is really close to actual. The Hulk mille and A. Simplex are truly an extremely bright green in my tank.

Well. Today is one year since the build got wet. I was digging through some old pix and was pleasantly surprised. The attached photo depicts an eight month span. I may take some non-cell phone pix this weekend.

Apex controller notification: Verizon email can be used to receive notifications from Apex. Anecdotal Bubble Tip Anemone cloning: How to force a large BT anemone to split. Force feed the anemone for three days and conduct a large water change (50%). The stress will cause the BT anemone to begin splitting. I have used this method at least 20 times.

Oil slick on water surface? Drag newspaper across the water surface, the newspaper will quickly pick up debris.

Always keep a spare return pump on hand. Test run the reef system on the generator at least annually. Plumbing: Always use unions on return pump. Planning: When possible, segment equipment across several power circuits. Lighting: Clean light fixture frequently to avoid salt creep. Place a small power head in sump to keep detritus suspended for removal by skimmer. Soak power heads in vinegar to remove coralline algae. Cover nuisance and evasive corals such as Montipora Cap. with epoxy. Always have RODI water and salt available for emergencies. Power: Always use GFI circuits.

Do not be shy, share your secrets.

+1

I am sure this has been covered before, but I wanted to start a fresh thread. We all have our secret methods and tips for maintaining a successful reef, so I wanted to share a few of mine and would like to hear yours as well. Below are a few ideas to get things going... If you know the employees at the LFS, bring them a frag or two once in awhile for their tanks. Keep a journal. Use a squeegee to clean the display panels. Put labels on all power cords. Use Turkey Baster or power head to blow detritus out of rock work before a water change. Start a siphon by placing the submerged end of the hose in front of a working powerhead. Picking lime can be used as a Kalk substitute. Pay half cash and half credit card when trying to hid a purchase. Always use primer when gluing PVC. Add a teaspoon of kalk to the skimmer cup to eliminate sewage smell.

As mentioned above, personal preference. Keep in mind, it is the Indian, not the arrow.

How much HCL did you use?

I am probably the last person you want to get photography tips. I have a Solon Wrasse ready to come out of quarantine, probably will move him to the main display this weekend.

Playing with the ancient 3 megapixel Olympus C3020. White balance and no post processing. I need a new rig.