ridetheducati

Anecdotal evidence suggests that low nutrient systems with needle/mesh/pin wheel skimmers depletes Potassium. A number of hobbyists have tested this theory by switching skimmers and noticed the Beckett does not deplete Potassium. I do not understand it at an ion level, but it may have something to do with chopping that the pin wheels perform. Beckett does not develop foam by chopping. When I had a Beckett, I did not care about K because my systems were not low nutrient. Animals in low nutrient systems seem to be more sensitive to water quality changes, stability is paramount. An alk swing in a low nutrient system can trigger a STN or RTN event.

The genny is full. From the omniverse.

Can you fix the skimmer pic?

And the Monti turns grey.

Nice combo, send me some pix, I would like to see.

My system consumes 20 - 25 ppm of K per month, and I perform 10% water changes per week with Red Sea Blue. Additionally, I dose 150 ml of Brightwell Potassion every fortnight. My green Montipora Confusa and Yellow Highlighter Stag will tell me when levels are low. I changed salt several years ago because I wanted a salt mix with NSW Potassium levels (390-400 ppm) and low alkalinity. Instant Ocean K level - 360 ppm Red Sea Blue - 400 ppm I believe the level of bacterial activity impacts Potassium uptake, not all systems are affected. There has been some discussion around the type of skimmer, needle wheel versus Beckett, can impact K levels as well.

Dosing 5 grams of KNO3 twice a week. Keeping nitrates at 2 ppm. Not using GFO or other type of phosphate removers. I did notice that if I let the nitrates drop to zero, phosphate will hold or slightly rise .01 ppm. Next week, I am going to continue the protocol with one change. Increase the carbon source (vodka) one ml, I am currently running 6 ml of vodka, while dosing KNO3. I am beginning to believe the carbon and nitrate variables must be increased to correct the overall C:N:P ratio.

Cool, and thanks for visiting. I dont mind holding corals as long as I can have a frag.

No necessarily, what happens in the skimmer cup is only part of the story. What kind of skimmate would you get if you replaced the ATB with a HOB skimmer? Skimmate would be dark, nasty, and rancid. However, the system would not be cleaned adequately. The bioload you described sounds moderate to high and the ATB is up for the challenge.

I dose one calcium reactor per day.

A three or four foot dual beckett is hard to beat. A friend has a MRC MR3 sitting in his closet, he is thinking about getting back into the hobby. The power consumption and beckett maintenance caused me to sell my unit several years ago. Having to clean the beckett weekly was difficult to deal with. Those tiny snails you see spawning in your tank constantly clogged the beckett. Category Heavy Weight Championship Level Skimmer Beckett Lighting 400w Metal Halide Power Head Tunze and Vortech Note: I have experience with the following skimmers, GEO Beckett (48"), MRC MR3 Dual, H&S A200, ASM G4+, and Bubble Master 200.

Just skip your mortgage payment this month. JK.

ATB are nice, the 1260 was a beast, great pump.

Braden should be looking for a skimmer with at least a 10" body (considering normal stand height), 600GPH, and 1500 LPH. I like skimmer threads because of all the variables and personal preferences. As long as someone does not say a HOB skimmer is adequate for a 200g tank I am fine. LOL.

An 8" body will handle 150-200g all day. Which ATB did you get?

Earlier you said your system volume was 400g. Regardless, as long as it works for you, that is the bottom line.

Correct, for two reasons. 1) Skimmer overflows are contained, and 2) I can change the feed pump flow to fit my needs, adjust performance.

No disrespect, but your skimmer is performing "excellent" because its undersized and trying to keep up. I would expect the XP5000 on a 400g system. What you have seems to fit your reef keeping methods. My skimmer, Bubble Master 200 is designed for a 150g-200g, which I ran on my 180g, is currently pulling duty on my 290g volume system. I can see the smoke billowing out the skimmer pump its working so hard to keep up. Skimmate is dark,nasty and rancid. One other indicator I know the skimmer is lagging is because I am accustomed to the water in the tank to be invisible. When you look inside the tank you do not see water, just fish, corals, and rock. That is one sure fire way of knowing whether the skimmer is properly sized. My system has a light bio load, as I move into the moderate level, I plan to upgrade. I prefer external skimmers placed inside a sump, better control.

What do you have now?

Are you treating them?

Please sticky.

I thought the sun was coming through the window.

Classic green water syndrome. 100% water change and lower light intensity.

Have you read the numerous threads on WAMAS regarding carbon dosing? I hate to say it, but it cost to be the boss. In order to maintain high water quality on 400g of water requires capital. Short term, 4-5 cups of HC GFO changed monthly will lower phosphates, guaranteed. I strongly recommend upgrading the skimmer, G4 is not adequate.

I am using 4.3, it fixed the GMX email problem.