ctenophore

I'm not sure if Dan or I replied to you, but the small using high capacity gfo and/or rox 0.8 carbon will be plenty for a 90 gallon. It will be a lot quieter than any other pumps you use; the sicce nano is silent.

It's still going on, just a bit different than originally planned. I've been running my tank on the autofeeder since last October, and haven't fed anything manually since just after this past Christmas. We're continuing to work through design iterations in order to make something we can produce for a reasonable price but is still easy to use and nice looking. When that will happen is unknown, but rest assured it is being worked on basically daily.

Cerameco pieces from marco. Frag tank is 4x4, and yes it was pretty full. Still a lot of coral in there though. Hope to have it cleared out before the new year.

Thanks for the compliments everyone. I wish it was really show worthy, but it just got started. Laura, it's Anthony's old 330, but is only filled to within 5" from the top, so 280? gal. I hate sloshing water when I work in a tank. The gyres are at each end, one upside down along the bottom, the other 2" below water level. I wanted to put all of them against the bottom, but wasn't quite getting the gyre spin that i wanted. So they alternate from opposite sides, one high and one low, every 6 hours. Then 15 min of all off, slack tide. Then at the next switch, all on for 15 min to create chaotic flow and move any detritus piles. I'll do a better video with more detail in a few days.

I figured I put it off long enough. Also, I wanted to take advantage of the winter solstice to gradually acclimate all the frags from only LED to full sun. For the test frags I used 50% blue theater gel, but have since taken that off with only clear polycarbonate tops on the tank which are about 90% transmittant. PAR averages about 100 in the morning to about 500 at mid day in winter. That should increase to about 1500 in the summer. Basically equivalent to 1000w 6500k iwasaki bulbs.

I finally got around to setting up a reef tank in the greenhouse again. https://youtu.be/uJWT1DpsiNE I just moved a bunch of frags that were growing in my frag tank for the past year or two. Some are pretty good sized colonies now. The plan for this tank is to be my sps high energy reef. Lighting is obviously full sun, but also 2 radion g2 for night time and blue accent. Flow is 4x gyre 150. I'll take some daytime shots soon. Still have some cleanup to do and a few more corals to plant. I'm curious to see how fast some of these corals grow (especially in summer) compared to only LED lighting in my other tank which is plumbed to this one.

It is optional since the reactor can be driven from a manifold. Listed price is without pump.

We planned the medium to work under an average height 24" stand. Once the flange at the cone/cylinder transition clears the outer chamber, you can tilt it easily.

This Friday, November 27th, we are introducing our latest concept in reef filtration technology: the Spyglass fluidized cone reactor! This reactor represents our efforts to create a design that makes maintenance quick and easy, is highly efficient with water flow and electrical usage, yet is versatile enough to work with virtually all media available to the reef aquarium hobby. The best part is that we are launching the Spyglass at amazing introductory preorder pricing of 40% off! This deal will only last the weekend, so get on the preorder list early! Additionally, we are discounting everything else on our site by 15%! This is a perfect time to stock up on media or any other needed aquarium equipment. Note that this sale is valid using coupon code THANKS15 from 12:00am Friday, November 27th until midnight Monday November 30th. Best wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving & Holiday Season! Dan & Justin, Captains

I just realized I forgot to post our coupon code for the thanksgiving weekend. It's THANKS15. I'll post more details in a separate thread. Thank you wamas for all of your support so far this weekend for what has already been our best new product launch ever!

They should be available any day now (I think housings arrived on Friday), but if you already have one of ours, we'll definitely fix it for you.

The feeder project is moving forward, but a little different than originally planned. We'll put together a teaser video sometime after the holidays I think.

Yes. Details will be out soon!

If you do manual removal, it will grow right back. You need to address the source of the nutrients feeding the algae. Take a look at All In One biopellets, PO4x4, or GFO. Any of those will reduce phosphates.

True, as long as it gets fully dried out. Otherwise you'll have mold and rotten wood under the stand. I assume there is a plywood bottom in the stand that the sump rests on?

A 220 would be tricky but this is a good idea. It should be movable with a few inches of water. You might take some of the upper rock out, and depending on how much sand, try to vacuum out some/most of the sand with the water. I'd ask Rob/zygote2k for a quote too, he is very good at this. Good luck!

Sure, we could probably build you some. I'll fwd this to Dan, but also send us email at support@avastmarine.com so we can keep track of it there also.

Maybe lymphocystis? That's viral I believe. There are very few true marine fungal infections. If it looks like it's getting worse, then yes, broad spectrum ABs are probably the way to go.

Yes, weldon 16 will work. Apply as described above, from the inside.

Hi, The best way to fix it is to wash it out with RO/DI water and let it dry thoroughly. Then apply a bead of weld-on #4052 to the inside seam at the bottom. It sounds like this is a pretty old model if it has a grey PVC base. If you want to send it in, we'd be happy to do this for you. Just send an email with your contact info on our website which will create a support ticket. Justin

That sounds like me It worked by letting them spread over the rocks they were attached to during an extended length water change. The first time I did it was by accident when I drained some water, left the nems high and dry, went to get the clean saltwater and accidentally spilled the bucket. Had to make up some new water which I let mix for 30 min, and dumped it in. Behold, a few days later, probably 4 extra anemones. It worked every time after that. I think they keys were the sharp edges of the rocks + exposure to air + "new" saltwater. Probably any sort of similar stressors would do it.

Yes, that's it. Sorry about that. I relinked it to the Seabones page on our site. http://www.avastmarine.com/literature/SeaBones_manual_v1.1.pdf And the kit assembly: http://www.avastmarine.com/literature/SeaBones-Kit_manual_photos_v1.1.pdf

If you shorten it, the friction of the water moving thru that pipe will lessen, and will increase the max output flow rate. But you may get your hand wet adjusting the valve if it's below the water level. You can cut a few shorter sections of pipe to press fit into the bottom of the gate tee to experiment with.

Resurrecting this thread. I did a test with these in a Vibe reactor. Hugely impressed so far. Some of you may have seen the crazy bryopsis problem I've had for the past year or so. It's now almost gone within a month of starting these up. Also no rust/deposit issues like in the RC thread. Here's a video I just made.

The salinity fluctuation still won't be significant enough to bother anything. Just do the math; the percentage change is probably much less than your refractometer can measure. I used to use a tunze a long time ago but it took too long to fill and would time out. I use two 4'x4' polyethylene totes linked together as a sump. That's 32sqft of variable surface area. It takes my ato pump (peristaltic) about 3 hours to fill it 1/2". The salinity change is not measurable with my refractometer.