ctenophore

I thought using a dual head pump would mean equal flow rates for the input and output lines, but that turned out not to be the case even when head pressures were within a few feet. The simplest and most reliable solution thus far in the many years I've been using auto change systems is two separate peri pumps that are calibrated on a stopwatch. I've found that they (naturally I'm using our avast pumps) only vary in output a few ml over the course of half a year or more. The one that puts saltwater into my system runs 24/7, and the remover pump runs a fraction less on a timer. It really is set and forget. The only upgrade I'm planning is to put both pumps on an ato switch that turns off when the salt reservoir is empty. One nice thing is it can run off a digital wall timer if you don't have a controller.

A tank full of thriving dendronephthyas

Doesn't matter which way the wiper faces. It's bidirectional.

You can tighten it down against the neck a little more. The wiper is designed to be flexible like that. Bump it out about a millimeter, then tighten down the stainless steel nut to keep it from sliding back in.

Yes that was my plan. I think they just charge per person and fill up their vans.

Wade, I'm on Southwest 4191, 8am BWI -> 11:15am DEN on Fri 4513 on return, 5pm -> 10:30pm Sunday

The problem with that is if it runs just well enough to handle 73f ambient air, if even the smallest thing starts to degrade in performance (fan dirty, insulation tear, etc) then it may be out of acceptible range for food. Which equals cranky customers, high support costs, etc. Better to do it right the first time

Update: it doesn't run as cool as I want in a hot, humid garage. Not going to mass produce it until it will work in a somewhat extreme environment. But, on the positive side, the temp it holds has been very steady for the past 3 months of continuous duty. So at least the cooler design is reliable so far, even if not acceptible performance.

You might consider putting it up in the rocks. Maxima clams naturally live embedded in rock, not on sandy bottoms like gigas or derasa. Like others have mentioned, get one of those specially shaped clam mounts or a piece of shell, then once the clam is permanently attached, glue the shell somewhere up high in the rocks.

3.75" diameter. Circumference would be pi×diameter or 11.78. The conversion kits are only for old swabbies, about 2 years old or more.

Yes it fits up to about 7.75"

Yes, we are planning a build party/wamas social along with Artfully Acrylic & Incredible Corals the first week in November. We will have details figured out soon.

Go with your personal measurements- ATB is notorious for changing the dimensions of their skimmer collection cups on nearly every revision of skimmer. There are definitely a few different versions of the 840 "v2". I know we have people who have used 7" Swabbies on ATB 840 series skimmers, so if yours measures 7", then that is what you need.

I need to completely redo the water flow approach on my tank, and thinking of using the tunzes I already have plus some jebaos to create a back and forth gyre. If I can use a RA to control 12 of these in total, 6 on each side, then I'll probably start using one. You know in coming to you with questions first, Alan

Yes, they can help it to grow faster by increasing its surface area when grazing. I've noticed some areas where it's been removed, but also some increased growth. If that's the tradeoff for red turf algae removal, I'll take it. If only they ate bryopsis, they would be the perfect reef creature.

I read about royal urchins on advanced aquarist blog, gave them a try, and wow they are effective algae grazers. One does the work of probably 10 snails. They are immune to predation, at least in my tank of many wrasses and other invert hunting fish. After having these, I'll never buy snails again.

I saw the sale and thought whether or not some high quality German bone cutters would be worthwhile and not rust. I have regular old Pakistani bone cutters that I got around 1998 which are pitted and rusted pretty badly. But they still work as perfectly as the day I got them, except when I have to open & close them a few times underwater to free up the rusty joint. I think after 16 years of use, I may just stick with them. I'd be afraid to use something like the ecotech kit, at least until the first few rust spots appeared.

We haven't used foam pads in calcium reactors in probably 4 years- only mesh disks at the bottom. If you have foam or sponge, you might want to get the HDPE mesh instead, which does not clog.

I am going

We are also looking into small all-plastic fuel filters to use as prefilters for the reactors. Will let you know when we have one ready.

I have a tee from my return pump, but I know many others use a powerhead like the mj1200 you mentioned. Did you check to see if the little 1/8" valve was getting clogged with detritus? Does the output still decrease over time if you leave the valve off the output side? Also, does the effluent line flow uphill for any significant distance? My output line is about 3ft and only rises about 6" to clear the 2' wall of my sump.

If you are going to run system water in the ground loop, I would plumb it so you can isolate it and clear it in the winter. Then every few years you can easily run some muriatic through it to clean it. How are you going to heat the system in the winter?

Sent pm. Isaac he needs the watery #4, not the syrupy #33

The only problem I can forsee is the age of the acrylic may not allow it to weld very well. Depends on how much saltwater it has seen over the years. Also be sure to wash it out with rodi water and dry thoroughly before gluing. A hairdryer may be best.

That is acrylic to acrylic. Best option is to use some weldon #4 and apply it from the other side of that joint. I.e., on the top of the reactor body. You're welcome to come over here to Rockville to get it, but maybe try Adam at artfully acrylic first since he's closer to you in va?