DaveS

Haha rofl!

Are both of the water heaters electric? What about the furnace, gas or electric? If you have gas, you will have additional considerations to ensure CO doesn't get pulled into the living space.

That window in room one would make for a nice way to exhaust moisture. I think you will want to finish the room and put insulation against the foundation. Otherwise in the summer you will likely get condensation on the block wall.

Where are you located?

Looks like the proboscis of my fighting conch. But I don't see a shell or anything else so...

I'm not sure I follow this. If you build a room around the sump, you still need think you need to deal with the humidity. Otherwise you are just keeping the moisture in the smaller room for the mold to develop. If you plan to run a dehumidifier or vent, I would agree that confining the humidity to a smaller room would control things better. I just would hate to see someone build an enclosed room and call it a day.

I was thinking to say all the things Evan just did. If your tank is upstairs and you have a blank basement to work with, just make the room below the tank. Horizontal runs just increase the hassle.

Time to get a bigger tank!

Great to see WAMAS members coming through for fellow reefers. Hope it works out ok.

I think that idea is a reasonable one as it's mostly a modified Herbie (to account for plumbing through the back glass). You may find that the existing elbow is still too high to get enough head pressure to fill the drain pipe. If that is the case, you can take a chop saw and cut down the upturned elbow. On a 1.5" elbow, there is probably more than an inch of PVC beyond the bend that you can cut down. Here is some horrible ASCII art to help describe... ____________ | | __________| | | / | / | / |_________________/

My first thought is that you will need a bigger sump. When the power goes out, you will have a lot more water draining out of the DT.

I don't know if I still have of the corals I got from you but I definitely have stuff that can jumpstart you getting back in!

Welcome back Jake. I remember getting a few things from you breakdown sale.

Any update?

Since the QT isn't really a QT at this point, why don't you just plumb it into your DT setup?

Also, that ammonia detoxifier wears off after a while correct? Do you have enough live rock in the pico for the nitrifying bacteria to reside in? That stuff doesn't live in the water column or tank glass and when you change/rise the filter media you will lose some of the bacteria. Sorry, not trying to come across negative, just trying to channel the thought into positive steps and considerations.

You say you are going to focus on the water quality and not the feeding but you are mostly asking about what new foods to feed. Where do you want to be for food of choice with this fish? As much as we would all love our fish to be happy on dry flakes and pellet, not all fish will get there. Clearly you want to wean it off of Milliepora but where are you trying to get it? I ask the above questions because putting spectrum flake in the tank when it won't even eat food disguised as millepora seems unnecessary and just adding to the pollution problem. Same with throwing in live brine or tiger pods- none of them will sustain the animal so why bother trying to get him to eat it only having to change it later? I would stick with feeding him millepora just so you can get the animal comfortable in their current situation. Then, once they are happy, proceed with smearing food on the millepora. Once he takes something other than millepora as food, then you can think about introducing *that same food* without being on the millepora. Throwing the kitchen sink at this guy to see what sticks doesn't seem like a good idea. I am not an expert fish QT/food weaner so I'm just applying simple logic here. Seems to me this is going to be a multi-week/month effort. Are you ready for that or did you expect it to happen faster?

As I understand it, unless you are constantly QTing fish WITHOUT meds that kill bacteria, the primary form of amonia control for QT is water changes. You don't want to use Live rock or other organisms from the DT as they could bring is pathogens. Once the QT is over, you should be sterilizing everything which would kill any bacteria that did establish themselves in the QT system.

How big is your DT? Do one huge water change instead of multiple smaller ones. 12% is a bit smaller. I get that it may have been all the water you had at the time. Hopefully you made water overnight and you can do another big change today.

What epleeds said. This isn't a QT, it's an uncycked pico tank with too much livestock and lots of uneaten food. Way too much stuff going on. You may have been better off with a salt bucket as your QT.

Dunno, can you 3D print the electrical wires inside the connector?

I'm looking for the male plug that goes on the lamp end for Hamilton/Galaxy/Sun and other metal halide ballasts. It plug into this: Any know what kind of plug this is? Anyone have a few they can spare?

It's really just 2 UPS batteries that you can get for $6 each in a pretty metal box with some plugs. If you don't care about the metal box, it's like $15 in supplies and 20 minutes of time. Don't get me wrong, I'm not being negative. On the contrary, I'm supper impressed with its simple elegance. They engineered the driver to be compatible with such commonly available parts.

Here is another example of what I was trying to describe. Note all the wasted space and that is in a perfect world. In reality with twisting, friction and other things, I doubt you will be able to pack things that tightly. So you may end up cutting big holes to install 2" conduit but only able to get 1 1" tube through it.

I think running a big pipe as conduit for tubing to be pulled later may not work out as planned. Between size, turns and friction, you may not get as much utility out of this idea as hoped. You will definitely not get the most effective use of the space made between the studs/baseplate. Look at all the wasted space in this concept diagram, Maybe a better idea that will provide numerous more options is to create a few small access panels. One behind your tank and one downstairs in the under the tank. Maybe another one somewhere else. Here is one example. And here is another for the ceiling. They sell pre-fab spring loaded panel as Home Depot that you just put into a dry wall hole and takes 2 minutes to install. You can paint it to match. Basically I'm suggesting you use access panels to keep the studs and area of interest open for the future. You can drill holes in studs and base plates later and you can have straight shots between the joints to where you want also. Then whether is one or multiple 1/2" pipes or 1" pipes, drill the appropriate hole(s) then. You will have much more flexibility for whatever you decide to do down the road.