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Everything posted by Almon
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Cleaner on Pink Tipped Anemone
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From the album: Almon's Pictures
Purple Gorgonian received at the 2007 CMAS Picnic -
I can give you some....bring buckets. I'm in Laurel.
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Please help me out here as I know very little about ballasts and bulbs. Someone is selling MH bulbs of various temperatures for $19 ($10 + $9 in shipping). The DE bulbs are $2 less. I asked him who the manufacturer was and he replied that the vendor doesn't tell him fearing that this guy will go directly to the manufacturer. What is wrong with these bulbs, other than the anonymous manufacturer? Will any electronic ballast run this bulb? Why is this a bad idea? 175 Watt Metal Halide Aquarium Bulb You are bidding the 175 Watt Metal Halide Aquarium Bulb, direct from manufacturer, brand new. The most popular metal halide color temperature available. Duplicates the coloration of the mid-day tropical sun between eight and fifteen feet of water depth. The perfect color temperature for replicating the natural light for the majority of reef inhabitants. Provides a crisp white light that brings out the colors of the reef and it's inhabitants, while producing a crisp, shimmering effect throughout the aquarium. Ideal for shallow and mid-range reef animals. Appearance: Crisp White 175 Watt Metal Halide Bulb 10,000 kelvin T Bulb Shape E39 Mogul Base CRI 65 Runs on an M57 Ballast Horizontal Burn Position
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From the album: Almon's Pictures
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Yeah, it really is. Look familiar? It used to be yours. Thanks
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Teal Acropora Sarmentosa viewed under 12K power compacts
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From the album: Almon's Pictures
Teal Sarmentosa 6 hours after being received from 143Gadgets -
I picked up a Pink Milli and a Teal Sarmentosa from Chris and both appear to doing well. I have 175w 10Ks and put the corals about 12" below the surface. The Sarmentosa polyps are extended more than the Millipora. I have also observed these corals without any lights and with only 12K PCs and the Millipora polyps appear to be extended more during low or no light than with the 10K Metal Halides on. All is well so far. Both are beautiful corals.....
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Hi Yauger, and welcome. My name is Almon (it's my first name) and I'm sort of new the to club also. Everyone is very helpful, lots to learn, and plenty of trading.....it's been great. I look forward to seeing you around.
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How does ich form? Is always in the aquarium or must it be introduced by adding new fish, corals, or from the water that may come with the new arrivals? I've had saltwater tanks for 16 years and have never seen ich. Maybe I'm lucky....but I have also NEVER, EVER put any other water into my system other than new water, which until recently has always been tap water. How does this parasite get into your tanks?
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American Glassworx 9855 Baltimore Blvd, Suite A Laurel, MD 20723 301-497-1863
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There is a custom glass shop in Laurel, MD that I had used to replace a glass top. I will drive by and get the name for you.
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Oh, I was wondering why we could see the worm and why the sheath seemed to be cut open....it's on the glass. Cool.....
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Jess, what is that, a feather duster?
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Would the addition of a UV filter help remove Ich that has already formed on fish or does it simply prevent Ich from forming? Or neither? 1.009? Won't that just about kill all the corals...and fish.....and inverts....
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I bet there are some awesome pictures of Invertebrate. Examples include: Porifera
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I've taken the backgrounds off of my tanks and enjoy viewing from the back side as well.
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You didn't rinse it first?
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Bob, It sounds like a Mantis shrimp! You probably hear distinct clicking sounds coming from the tank too. I had one for probably 8 years before I got him out. Completely wiped out the janitor population except for a few a the biggest snails. They are cool, but extremely dangerous in the reef tank. For years, I could not figure out why I couldn't keep small fish. I would put them in, see then once or twice, and that was it. If you see it in the rock, remove the rock immediately. Get him OUT. But PLEASE don't flush him. I will take him.......Jason will take him....someone will take him..... Also, they are nicknamed "Thumb Splitters" for a reason.....Don't get too close....be careful.. I read about a diver who got too close to one in the wild and was "Speared" through a finger. They could not control the infection and had to amputate the finger.
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So, what is a normal pH swing in a well aerated tank? .05, .5, somewhere in between, or 0? Rascal, flowerseller, dandy7200: What is the pH swing in your tanks? I understand many people that have a refugium use those lights at night when the main lights are off......to equalize the Oxygen/CO2 input/output.....which is really to equalize the pH....Is that right? And if the tank is well aerated, then does it really matter that the refugium lights are on at alternate times?
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I'm going....I live 10 minutes away. Look forward to seeing you there....
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I thought this was a good article of the decline of bulbs over time http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php It measured the output of several bulbs over time and had the following conclusion: I have shown how the output of one particular metal halide bulb diminishes initially and then slows its decline over time. Knowledge of the bulb
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I was very successful recently in raising my Calcium levels from 300ppm to 500ppm in a two week period using Seachem Reef Advantage Calcium . You buy it from the LFS. I have about 300 gallons in my system and was adding 2 or 3 tablespoons once or twice a day. I raised my Calcium to 500ppm without affecting the PH at all. You could raise it faster, but we all know that "Slow is the way to Go". I was very happy with the results. I just started using a DYI Kalk stirrer, but both the Alkalinity and Calcium continue to drop, so I am also still adding the Reef Advantage Calcium as needed. It works well, but more expensive than Calcium Hydroxide. I have been contemplating getting a Kalk Stirrer from Grey Seas Aquatics. It appears to be of superior quality for an excellent price. I know there are many that will praise its performance.