flowerseller

Reeflow Hammerhead 5800gph, but, it also feeds three tanks, a fuge, and my DD skimmer via the UV. All accomplished by creative plumbing.

try exposing that rock to air for a few hours but not under light. If the zoas start to dry a little, just dunk them for a second. They should be fine without doing that though.

What is the goal of the UV? Clarity? The only thing that could be killed is contained in the water that flows thru the UV. I have run a 40w unit for years pushing about 1500gph and have plenty of life.

OMG, the government is planning storms on us now.

Well that's t-bucketable

Maybe we could have a club laser and loan it out like the light meter?

adding a new tang to a tank is tricky. Especially if it's the same body type, yellow and scopas are. Yellow and hippo are not. Tricks to this include; add all same body type at same time after preparing for the increased bio load on the tank itself, adding smaller tangs first, larger tangs second while allowing for bio load schedule. Adding different body types at separate times, adjusting some of the "known" hang outs of current tangs to make look different - does not mean rearranging whole tank, just the hang outs. Most cases include feeding the tank lightly during and or having lights off for awhile before adding BUT having good lighting in the room itself. With tangs, I find it's also important to allow and prepare for increased bio load right before helps keep them healthy while they adjust. Feeding foods with freshly grated garlic stimulates them and have been helpful to me. at the end of the day, it still tricky adding new tangs when some residents have become well established. btw, scopas tangs are well known to be extremely territorial to begin with or will develop that tendency. I do not use them or add them last.

You could tell your girlfriend that they're starved (literally) for attention and that you need to spend more time with your fish tank. There has been plenty of threads over the years here about this same issue. Like Tom, I am suspect to most crabs, including arrow crabs which I love. I still keep them from time to time but ......

So you saying to be careful sitting near the tank if you've had burritos or chili too?

free broken pump Replacement parts = $30 refurbished pump for $30 Destroyed reef due to possible copper internal winding = priceless but it was a free broken pump it can't be saved, but your aquarium can be.

Yes, you like it huh? It's not just any old bungee cord, it's a "safety bungee cord". I use it to make sure some tubes and the fuge light cord don't get caught up when I move the bi-fold doors behind my tank.

I know a lot of people do it, and do it successfully, but I've not been a fan of restricting and overflow for any reason and always use over sized overflows. I do believe in having an emergency or redundant overflow. In my case, I run two, two inch, overflows and I could be pushing as much as 2500-3000 gph through my tank though. I run mine through the back glass down to my sump via flexible pvc. I modified the set up to mimic a durso. It's whisper quiet as long as I keep the vent holes on top clear of salt creep. I do attribute some of the quietness to having very few joints in the outflow plumbing. This stops the splashing noise often heard in gravity plumbing.

you're *#@!ed, bend over

No, just the one in the tank. You can use 90's together to make the feed come from the bottom if needed. Try to use threaded fittings wrapped several times around with teflon tape.

And we do water changes as a family. After my wife finishes carrying the 8 five gallon buckets of new water up the 2 flights of stairs, the kids have already gotten the other 8 buckets of old water from the tank readied for her to carry back down two flights of stairs and dump into the sink in the laundry room. Once that's done, she passes by the kitchen and brings me two freshly made sammiches to eat as well as for the kids. Quality family time at it's finest.

I think you could have made the water and done the water change already.

Yea, but I use 1". I thought this was about 3/4"

Been using uv for 25 years or so.

I think it was Mr Squiggles, in the library, with a candle stick

You could also cut some large diameter pvc pipe.

I often wonder were flys go when it rains

I mentioned copper because what you are describing is also like a classic copper meltdown although you make no mention of fish. Like Tom questioned, if you are certain there is no chance to have any copper, don't waste the money. In regards to your silicone choice to complete this project; I believe even cured, any silicone that has mold inhibitors is going to cause a problem. My reasoning is rather simple and yet extremely unscientific. If it's able to inhibit mold after curing, or drying if you will, it's still releasing something in order to accomplish this. FYI, I'm not opposed to 100% w/c if the water is prepared ahead, made compatible, and done as a 100% drain and refill. I've left everything in place, including the fish. This is the only way to neutralize a true full kalk over dose as multiple water changes are just about useless in that scenario. While this is considered a rather drastic measure, and I give plenty of thought before I make a decision to do so, it might be a possible solution your case if you unhook the new sump first.

Sorry to hear of this issue, I'd be interested to hear your alk, Ca and copper levels?

I just control CO2. I place my reactor effluent line under water which for me took care of clogging. I use a JG valve. I use a DIY effluent cup which holds about 1/3 cup effluent before spilling over. It also contains a pH probe to my ACIII. My spill over is a 1/4 (?) tube so I can still count the drips, or for me a slight stream. I also run a higher pH inside my reactor going for a lower alk # at about 14. This has worked for me. My Ca reactor is an all internal DIY jobby I made about 5 or so years ago. Only external tubing is in and out and the power cord for the recirc pump, which is internal. It's a really clean look.

BTW, I'm more of a fan of programming my ACIII to respond to the pH of my Ca reactor by controlling the CO2 solenoid than to limit the effluent drip pump. Just another approach, not a better or worse way to skin the proverbial cat.