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Question on plumbing reeflo pump


pizzaguy

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Plumbing is almost done. Will update this weekend

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Aside from the purple primer does anyone see any problems so far. Only thing I have left is to build the manifold and I should be ready to water test.

Also, what chemical can I use to clean the purple primer off? Was gonna paint the pipes but cannot have the fumes in the house so need a way to clean them

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I would not have reduced the drain size after the 90 going into the sump. If your not running a full syphon its going to create restriction, turbulance and gurgle more. Why did you put ball valves on the drain pipes?

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I tried to keep it 1.5" but the way the filter sock holder was designed for 1 inch the pipes were to tight together and wouldn't fit. If it creates a lot of gurgling etc I will definitely redo it. Also no reason on the ball valves figured it couldn't hurt and I already had them

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In the drains its a good idea to not have any spot where it gets smaller, like ball valves or reducers because snails or other stuff can get stuck and cause overflows. If you have a bullet proof overflow where nothing gets through you can use ball valves to reduce flow and noise or keep your smaller like on the end. But I would drill the top of the sock holder and keep the pipe the same size because something always finds its way in at one point or another.

Other than that it looks good from what I glanced at. Just paint the primer white, it will not come off that's for sure.

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Awesome thank you

Will build manifold tonight hopefully then I'm ready to water test.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Piper you were right on the gurgling. It is obnoxious loud.so redoing that somehow to keep it 1.5 inch. Also this pump is entirely to big. Not sure where I'm gonna go with that yet. It sounds like rapid river waterfalls in living room. Alot of small issues. Siphon break on return lines inside overflows has a jet stream coming out of them and I am only using about a third of the pump currently. I will post a pic of the ball valve to show how far it is throttled back.

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Are your drain pipes full siphons or do they carry air?  If you switch at least one to full siphon and the pipe is large enough diameter, you can move all the water to the sump silently.  The siphon breaks in the return loclines aren't necessary since you have a check valve.  But if you use them, switch the locline they're drilled in so the holes are just under the water level.  A tiny bit would siphon back if the check valve fails, but at least you wouldn't have the spray.

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Not sure what full siphon means can you explain. They are the ones that come with the tank new

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Another hint on siphon breaks: I've zip-tied a small cube of (black) open cell (filter) foam over siphon break holes to soften the stream. It also keeps the hole clear of salt build-up.

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Great idea tom and thank you avast

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I have a Blueline 55HD sitting here as a backup you are welcome to try if you are thinking of downsizing the pump and aren't sure where to start.  It should handle your tank fine.  It's about 1/3 as powerful as the goby.

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Thank you mark. Gonna put my reactors online soon and try that first then go from there

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Your reactors will not need a ton of flow to tumble your media. i would consider downsizing your pump now instead of running it at 1/3 or less and wasting all that electric and shelf life. Just my 2c. 

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