Sharkey18 April 29, 2014 Share April 29, 2014 There have been a few threads recently talking about RODI pressure. The highest my pressure gets is 30 psi. As the resin gets used up, it drops. I finally bit the bullet and installed a booster pump, and well, it BOOSTS! With the pump running the pressure reaches 90 psi! How do i get it to the sweet spot of around 60? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime April 29, 2014 Share April 29, 2014 Dang! I might have to follow your footsteps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djplus1 April 29, 2014 Share April 29, 2014 There is an adjustment screw on the booster. I would run it at 75-80, as your water is made faster. I run mine about that upon recommendation from BRS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djplus1 April 29, 2014 Share April 29, 2014 The only issue is if your fittings and canisters are rated for that pressure. The BRS ones are according to the dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT April 30, 2014 Share April 30, 2014 look on BRS at the video they have for the booster pumps pretty sure its a preset output pressure that you are not supposed to mess with 90ps is perfect for the 150gpd kit....one day ill get around to buying one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime April 30, 2014 Share April 30, 2014 look on BRS at the video they have for the booster pumps pretty sure its a preset output pressure that you are not supposed to mess with 90ps is perfect for the 150gpd kit....one day ill get around to buying one What is your water pressure like? You're not that far away, and Laura is right around the corner. I pull about 40PSI on a good day on a TIII rated for 150gpd. It takes 24 hours to make 50 gallons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Country April 30, 2014 Share April 30, 2014 My old townhouse in Germantown had an adjustment at the water meter on the pressure relief valve, I had a plumber adjust it to 70 PSI which he said was as high as was allowed. At my house where I live now in Linthicum Heights, MD the pressure guage on my TIII says 50 and I don't have a adjustment at the meter, I do alright and my DI lasts quite awhile since I get a TDS post membrane of 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT April 30, 2014 Share April 30, 2014 im 45-50 if im lucky.. the 150gpd needs 90 otherwise your just gonna go thru your membrane REALLY fast and it wont reject as much as it would with a higher pressure i could be wrong but im pretty sure you should look into a booster pump isaac.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epleeds April 30, 2014 Share April 30, 2014 I run mine at about 85psi. I run a spectrapure maxcap 90. it makes about 4 gallons of good water an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraffitiSpotCorals May 3, 2014 Share May 3, 2014 My old townhouse in Germantown had an adjustment at the water meter on the pressure relief valve, I had a plumber adjust it to 70 PSI which he said was as high as was allowed. At my house where I live now in Linthicum Heights, MD the pressure guage on my TIII says 50 and I don't have a adjustment at the meter, I do alright and my DI lasts quite awhile since I get a TDS post membrane of 3. Most new pressure reducing valves have a screw or bolt you can adjust to make the pressure higher or lower coming into your house. I think like you said, 70 is tops, I got mine up to 65 comfortably, it gets tight,quickly and I wouldn't suggest playing with them too much but they are adjustable. A new prv is cheaper than a booster pump if the old one isn't adjustable. And if it's not it's probably old enough to where it should be replaced. They will start leaking out of no where! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme May 4, 2014 Share May 4, 2014 Most new pressure reducing valves have a screw or bolt you can adjust to make the pressure higher or lower coming into your house. I think like you said, 70 is tops, I got mine up to 65 comfortably, it gets tight,quickly and I wouldn't suggest playing with them too much but they are adjustable. A new prv is cheaper than a booster pump if the old one isn't adjustable. And if it's not it's probably old enough to where it should be replaced. They will start leaking out of no where! I'm considering messing w/ my pressure reducing valve to increase pressure...Can I just use my RODI pressure gauge to monitor my adjustment or should I get a pressure gauge that screws into a hose faucet to be safe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraffitiSpotCorals May 4, 2014 Share May 4, 2014 Put your pressure gauge inline right before the supply going into your first filter. Make sure no water is running as you adjust it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 12, 2014 Author Share May 12, 2014 So I made 90g of water in 24 hrs. running the booster pump.It boosts to about 85 psi. This seems unreal. Do I trust this water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT May 12, 2014 Share May 12, 2014 ok from my research the ideal PSI for a 75gpd membrane filmtec (one fo the better rejection rate membranes) 60psi is the ideal the factory states for it...AWI and Spectrapure etc use several different membranes taht do fine at higher pressures to but you need to be careful up near 90, most RODI units arent made to hold that pressure so you may have a burst. rejection rate of 4 waste to 1 good is for the flushing and proper filtration of the membrane....so the dual 75gpd ones taht claim less rejection water are not flushing the membranes properly and therefore will be exhausted faster. soo in short get the inlinve pressure reducer or use a booster pump if too low to get to the correct pressure for your RODI unit and its membrane of choice. seems like most membranes like the 60psi going into the membrane (aka after the pre filters) so im learning somethign new as well here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 May 12, 2014 Author Share May 12, 2014 Thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyS May 12, 2014 Share May 12, 2014 (edited) I've been using a booster pump at 90psi for over 5 years now, 3 years on a 50gpd AquaFX unit and the last 2 years on a 150gpd AirWaterIce unit. Never had any trouble, didn't notice membrane failing early, and always ended up with 0tds (tested with 3 meters). Edited May 12, 2014 by JeremyS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtsusc83 May 13, 2014 Share May 13, 2014 I run mine at 60psi using the booster pump. Best investment I ever had! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT May 13, 2014 Share May 13, 2014 ending up with 0 tds and out of where, out of the membrane prior to the DI stage??? or out of the DI canister aka your product water...out of the DI canister yes thats because its using the resin to remove the last particles......pretty sure no membranes should give you 0 tds (100% rejection rate)...if this was true you would NEVER have to replace your DI resin. out of the membrane you either have rediculously clean water going in, or i want your membrane, or your exhausting your DI resin faster than ideal. im not saying all RODI units cant take 90 psi...but there are reports of canisters bursting at that pressure. look up your RO MEMBRANE manufacturer (most likely filmtec) and youll see the 60psi reccomended for the membrane to work most efficiently (aka the claimed 99% rejection rate) or ask AWI what pressure you should be running your 150gpd membrane ill bet they will say 60psi is recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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