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So, how are those D120s treatin ya?


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It's been a while since the D120 craze swept through WAMAS, and I'm curious to see the end result. I bought 6 myself for a 180 build that is still in the works, but am curious of the results folks have achieved with these cost effective lights. I'm most interested in growth and color of your corals, as well as your set-up (tank dimensions, height of lights off the water, layout description, brightness settings, photoperiod, etc.). It would be great to document the success of these specific lights as opposed to LED lights as a whole.

 

Remember, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

 

So, how are those D120s treatin ya?

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I have 2 over my frag tank and they're doing just fine. No complaints.

 

Sent from my LG-V510 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Not D120's, but they are from the Evergrow buys, and the only difference is the built in controller and a remote, but I run the IT2080's (Photon 32's) I switched from Metal Halide/t5 combo, but really didn't have much experience when I put one on my tank. I am pleased with my results, and the amount of heat they put off is nothing compared to what I was getting with my old fixture. You also might want to check out Tony's (Ridetheducati) build. He runs 6 of them over his SPS tank with phenomenal results.

 

DSC_0412_zps4c5eb188.jpg

 

You can find growth pictures and other information through out my build.

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Not D120's, but they are from the Evergrow buys, and the only difference is the built in controller and a remote, but I run the IT2080's (Photon 32's) I switched from Metal Halide/t5 combo, but really didn't have much experience when I put one on my tank. I am pleased with my results, and the amount of heat they put off is nothing compared to what I was getting with my old fixture. You also might want to check out Tony's (Ridetheducati) build. He runs 6 of them over his SPS tank with phenomenal results.

 

DSC_0412_zps4c5eb188.jpg

 

You can find growth pictures and other information through out my build.

 

What degree optics do you have on those IT 2080's?  I'm surprised by the amount of shadowing in the middle and outer parts of the tank, especially considering how high they are hanging over the tank.  Not saying the look is bad, as some people like to have dark spots, but I would have thought the brightness would be more uniform considering the fixture is only 2" shorter than the tank on each end [(36" half-length of tank - 32" fixture) / 2].  Do you find that the amount of spread is lacking on these fixtures in any way?

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What degree optics do you have on those IT 2080's? I'm surprised by the amount of shadowing in the middle and outer parts of the tank, especially considering how high they are hanging over the tank. Not saying the look is bad, as some people like to have dark spots, but I would have thought the brightness would be more uniform considering the fixture is only 2" shorter than the tank on each end [(36" half-length of tank - 32" fixture) / 2]. Do you find that the amount of spread is lacking on these fixtures in any way?

90 degree, and nope, I don't. The picture may be misleading, all shadows are from my rocks or corals. The centerbrace isn't covered, so even my over flows see some light. I've had no problems trying to grow corals, even my zoas about 4 ft down from the light on the bottom left do well.

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90 degree, and nope, I don't. The picture may be misleading, all shadows are from my rocks or corals. The centerbrace isn't covered, so even my over flows see some light. I've had no problems trying to grow corals, even my zoas about 4 ft down from the light on the bottom left do well.

What % do you run/max out at for how long?

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I've got 3 d120's over my 5ft long 150g tank...it's 24 inches deep and these are about 1 foot off of the surface of the water....

I've had decent growth of my euphyllias and my zoas are all on the floor in my tank too and do well...I have some kind of monti on top of a structure 2 ft down from the lights and its finally starting to take off...I do have to say I have fairly high nitrates because. Love my fish and corals so much I over feed,lol

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What % do you run/max out at for how long?

 

I used the standard ReefBreeders layout, taken from their website:

 

The exact color combo is as follows:

channel 1; 22 4500K neutral whites, 10 480nm blues,​ 4 660nm reds, and 12 410-420nm violets.

Channel 2; 48 450nm royal blue,

Channel 3; 3 480nm blue moonlights,

 

I run channel #1 at 80%. I run channel #2 at 50%. The 3rd channel is just the 3 moonlights, which I keep at 1% at night. My light cycle starts at 7:30am with just the blues, channel #2. By the time I'm ready to feed I have switched it to both channels at the percentages mentioned above, 8AM usually.  Around 6:00 at night, I switch back to just the blues at 10%, and run that until about 9pm. I know it's a long time to run the lights, but nothing seems to complain. I usually give pitch black about once a week.

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About a week ago I switched around the lighting on my main tank. Went from 5x d120 (custom layouts) and 1x 400w ushio 14k halide to 3x of those same d120 and 3x G2 radions. The halide was in the center and the d120s were arrayed 3 across the front and one on either side of the MH (i could see a little bit of color banding this way). Now the G2s are across the front in a row of three, and the d120s directly behind them, to prevent color banding.

 

So far, I am somewhat regretting the change. The color from the G2s just isn't as good as the d120s. I am honestly rather surprised at this. Now I haven't played with the spectrum of the G2s yet, but I would have to turn down certain colors to achieve the color I want, and that means less par.

 

I do like the easy programmability of the G2s but I am considering going to 6 or 8 of the d120s to get the old look back. I don't think the ushio bulb added that much, but I may do 2x250w rather than a single 400.

 

Overall, the result from the d120s have been excellent. Absolutely worth the $130/ea i paid for them in the first group buy. My only concern is bulb longevity given the skimpy aluminum backplane inside, but I understand that had been improved in the new d2040 unit.

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Well this is not my tank but a WAMAS members tank who I have known for 13 years. Got a call to come check it out 300DD running D1200

Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk

 

 

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You also might want to check out Tony's (Ridetheducati) build. He runs 6 of them over his SPS tank with phenomenal results.

 

I repeat. And I'll make it easy.

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Good replies folks, I like seeing a thread to reenforce the use of these LEDs. Especially as many are still concerned with coloration of their corals compared to traditional lighting set-ups. I myself have been having trouble with certain purple corals under LEDs, though I do have an encrusting Monti down low with a great purple hue to it.

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Good replies folks, I like seeing a thread to reenforce the use of these LEDs. Especially as many are still concerned with coloration of their corals compared to traditional lighting set-ups. I myself have been having trouble with certain purple corals under LEDs, though I do have an encrusting Monti down low with a great purple hue to it.

My Cali tort is... Sublime, for lack of better words.

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I have a d120 on my cube that replaced a t5 fixture and all I can say is wow. My corals are really perking up. Granted the t5 maybe didn't have the depth the d120 have to reach the bottom if the tank but I really like it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I run the it2080 on my 75... I really like it... great spread and color

 

Posted Image

 

 

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

Interested what your max intensity on ch1 and ch2. Schedule?

 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

 

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I run the it2080 on my 75... I really like it... great spread and color

 

upygaza2.jpg

 

 

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

is one 2080 enough to cover the 75?
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is one 2080 enough to cover the 75?

Yes and no...IT can, but the corners and far sides will not be as lit...

 I run 2 D120's over my 55, and now 90... phenomenal side2side Coverage.... :) Will take pics shortly. Here is my 55 before break down the other week...12075927255_a529925faf_b.jpg

Edited by TheyCallMeMr.703
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I think it covers it very well... I have some sps on one end doing very well near the bottom of the tank... in my opinion a little variation is ideal... meaning I can place chalice and others in areas with a little less light... but I am confident that I could support anything end to end with the light.. based on height off water and intensity....

 

My schedule is:

 

1pm- 20% blue 1% white/other colors

2pm 30% blue 8% white/other colors

3pm 40% blue 15% white/other colors

4pm 50% blue 25% white/others

5pm 60% blue 30% white/others

6pm 70% blue 40% white/others

7pm 60% blue 20% white/others

8pm 40%blue 10% white others

9pm 20% blue only

10pm moons at 9% wrasses tucked in

11pm off

 

That's from memory so maybe a little off but its close... I am always adjusting mine here and there... I also run moons in the morning for a couple hours when getting ready for work...

 

 

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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Personally I love it... I like that it gradually comes on and I also like that I can have different color temps througout the day.. I like the high noon look, I like the heavy actinic and all the all actinic look... seeing all the corals and fish under different lights is enjoyable to me...

 

I also like that I can cut it on cloudy which I set and run very low.. so if I am home on the weekend and want to see the tank with lights on all day I just push a button and its done... easy to adjust and see a schedule, one cord, no timer needed etc..

 

That said it is more of a luxury for sure... I wouldnt say it helps the corals, although I have read it is more natural and especially easier on fish etc.. (who knows on that)

 

So yea I wont have another fixture without built in control

 

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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