Tank problem would love any ideas....

[Neto]

Any new additions before Saturday? like new equipment or livestock? maybe additives? Any children capable of adding something to the tank? (it happends lol)

Edited June 5, 2013 by Neto

[DaisyDo]

I haven't changed/added anything in a long, long time.  I even asked my family (teenage children) if anyone was cleaning (that would have been a surprise) or sprayed anything in the air, etc.  Nothing....went to bed with everything fine Friday night and then noticed all the problems around 1 pm. the next day.  The salinity was a tiny bit high but Ben said that shouldn't have caused something like this.  I'm curious see what color the poly filter turns, if it does.  That might tell me more.

Edited June 5, 2013 by DaisyDo

[DaisyDo]

Wanted to give everyone and up date.  It seems the Poly filter is working well...the tank is looking better.  The Poly filter is turning a light blue which means copper.  I was talking with my 13 year old (who helps me with the tank) and said I couldn't figure out where the copper came from.  He then pointed out that we have copper water pipes in the garage and that is where I have a 55 gallon brute trash can with my water.  I changed all the filters tonight in my unit and emptied out the trash can to clean it.  I was surprised to see in the bottom that it was covered in some whitish scale (or something like that).  I have used white vinegar to break it down and scraped it all out.  Does anyone know what this could be?  Could this be copper residue?  Thanks for all the insight that everyone at WAMAS gives me.

[Origami]

Copper, oxidized is green. The whitish scale is most likely calcium carbonate that precipitated out of the salt mix. Put a little vinegar on it and, if it fizzes, it's calcium carbonate.

 

Water is normally not in copper pipes long enough to be a problem. I'd look for some other source of copper contamination.

[Origami]

Could you have had something fail that had wiring like your heater or a pump? Exposed and charged wiring could electrolyze, releasing ionic copper into the water.

[DaisyDo]

Found it !!!!  I had shut off the Carbon Reactor and removed it from the tank and just hadn't gotten around to clean it until today.  As I'm cleaning it I realize that the cord to the pump is not attached.  Sure enough it had broken and had exposed copper wire.  So there was my copper contamination.  So glad that I finally know what happened and can move forward.  I am running the poly filter and wondered how long it would take before it would be safe to add anything to the tank?  I really need to get some snails and hermits in there to get back to work cleaning up.  I just don't want to add anything too soon and have them die.  Thanks so much for everyone's help.  I just love WAMAS !!!!

[YHSublime]

Glad you figured it out!

[XxTech MoneyxX]

Just want to say WOW!  am I in the right hobby!!!!!

[BowieReefer84]

If you can find this http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=SC3271&child=SC3271&utm_source=adwordsfroogle&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=adwordsfroogle&utm_content=SC3271&gclid=CIiq6be70rcCFc-Z4AodpCwA5A

[wade]

The main issue, and what usually hits critters, is a sudden swing outside of their normal bounds.  82 isn't bad - however - if your tank normally resides at 76, that is a problem. It can shock and cause bleaching.  I would not suspect anything else if some corals are recovering at this point.  New carbon, a water change, and careful monitoring of the parameters of concern is the best thing you can do IMO.  Fiddling too much will make it worse.

[Origami]

I think the best thing to do is to run the poly filter for another day or so and check the copper level with a test kit. Refresh your carbon as there is some evidence that it will take up copper, too.

 

(Some small Nanos can swing 3 - 4 degrees in a day.)

 

Glad that you found the exposed cord.

 

(Sent from my phone)

 

 

[OldReefer]

You can also run Cuprisorb instead of carbon in your reactor for a month or so. Legit product. Not snake oil

 

http://www.marinedepot.com/Seachem_Laboratories_CupriSorb_Copper_Remover_Copper_Remover_Chemical_Filter_Media-Seachem-SC3271-FIFMCHCR-vi.html

 

Copper will continue to leach out of rick and sbstrate fo a while. .

 

I lost a big mature SPS tank to copper once. Sorry for the troubles.

[DaisyDo]

Thanks for all your help...I am ordering the Cuprisorb today and will that running in my reactor.  I also have to get a new submersible pump to run the reactor.  I know this is a loaded questions...however what brand of pump is preferred?  I need some thing small (75 gph is what I had) and I need it run quietly, as this is in my family room with the tv.  Thanks.

 

                                            Karen

[OldReefer]

I normally go with a basic Maxijet 1200 and dial it back as required. They loose a lot of flow going through the reactor. They are sold under the "Cobalt" brand now.

Edited June 9, 2013 by OldReefer

[sachabballi reef]

I normally go with a basic Maxijet 1200 and dial it back as required. They loose a lot of flow going through the reactor. They are sold under the "Cobalt" brand now.

+1 I use exact same ..works perfect.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

 

[Djplus1]

+1 I use exact same ..works perfect.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

+1 from djplus1