Just starting out - biocube 14 - pic heavy.

[Jeff721]

I was able to pick up a Biocube 14 with a bunch of extras for pretty cheap recently. I decided that this would be my first soiré into saltwater. I wanted to keep things relatively cheap to allow for more money to be spent on livestock and unexpected expenses. Also, ulitimately if I do fail at this and decide to walk away, I won't be hurting too much.

 

As of Friday the 16th this tank was up and running. Took a while to get the stand built, maybe 3 days. I posted about it here: http://wamas.org/forums/topic/56336-diy-biocube-14-stand-pic-heavy/

 

This weekend I went to 4 shops and found live rock, salt, sand, and advice. Tropic Lagoon, Congressional Aquariums, Pristin Aquariums, and Roozen's Garden Center. I ended up with about 10-12 pounds of live rock, 15 pounds of Reef Crystals salt, and enough RO/DI water to fill the tank and do a water change/top off.

 

Initial setup:

 

 

 

 

Haven't stopped rearranging the live rock yet. I think I need a couple more pounds worth. I am pretty picky about the pieces that I choose since it's such a small system - but I admit I don't always know what to look for. I picked up one piece with a little green algae by mistake (roozen's - bad lighting, but by far the cheapest for rock).

 

I also have some sort of green growth on one of my rocks that I would like someone to try to ID:

Top-center of the pic.

[Jeff721]

My hardware:

14 gallon tank - roughly 10 gallons of water volume

Filtration - 2 sheets of filter matting, one in the far right chamber, one in the center

- In Tank media basket, in the center chamber, under the filter matt, currently filled with bio-balls - hope to add chaeto in one slot

Flow - Koralia nano circulator

- maxi-jet 900 powerhead pump replaced stock pump

Heat - deep blue 150 watt heater

Lighting - 3x 24watt PC - 1x 10,000K, 1x 50/50, 1x Actintic

Fans within the lighting system

edit: also have a JBJ Nano-glo LED fuge light

 

My stocking plans:

Easy corals - you tell me. I was looking at LPS and Zoas, don't know which of the species of each. Remember, I'm a newb.

Livestock - 1x firefish, neon, or clown goby. 1x occelaris or percular clownfish. Maybe a blue-claw hermit crab. What other clean-up-crew should I look at?

 

I plan on feeding every other day. 10% water change per week. There will be no skimmer on this tank.

Edited March 19, 2013 by Jeff721

[Neto]

I like the scape of pic #2!

[Jeff721]

Thanks Neto, you've got a great tank going.

I think I would liek to go a little taller on the left and center. Pic 1 and pic 2 are the same scape, one is seated, one is standing, respectively.

[YHSublime]

Scape looks good, stand looks good, tank looks good. Is your tank done cycling yet? Are you ready for livestock? For your CUC, some will recommend that you don't add crabs, and if you do, add the blue legs. Then some will say add the red legs. I did a mix of snails and red legs in my 14, and was fine. I also had a peppermint shrimp, and two clowns. I would personally suggest either Goby that you're interested in, and a pair of juvie clowns. LPS and softies will be your best bet while your tank is young, then you can start looking at SPS, it looks like you have the lights for it. Most common Zoas are very hearty, and LPS and zoas do well in slightly "dirtier" water.

[flooddc]

 

I also have some sort of green growth on one of my rocks that I would like someone to try to ID:

Top-center of the pic.

Tank looking good.

Looks like hydroids or maybe feather duster. Can't see too well.

[YHSublime]

Oh, I also did a 10% water change every week, and fed light every day. I only ran filter floss and rubble rock in my middle chamber. I think you can probably feed everyday, depending on how much, and what.

[Jeff721]

Thanks guys. Tank is not done cycling. Only set it up on Friday, trying to be patient. I can't wait to get corals in there - but I will wait for the sake of their health.

 

Flooddc, the green stands are about .5 - 1mm thick. They are also branched together, multiple pieces like a tree branch. I will try to get a better pic, thanks for the attempt to ID.

[zygote2k]

FWIW, the smaller tanks usually have water temp issues unless they are kept in a cool area.

Ditch all of the additional powerheads and stick to the stock setup for best results.

[YHSublime]

FWIW, the smaller tanks usually have water temp issues unless they are kept in a cool area.

Ditch all of the additional powerheads and stick to the stock setup for best results.

 

Rob gave me this piece of advice when I started, and it served me well.

[Jeff721]

Thanks, the powerhead on the lower right isn't actually running, I just had it in when i was seeing home much flow would kick up too much crap. Turned out i needed the outlet space and can't run it anyway. I may see if I can make due without the koralia too since I could use another outlet really and it is so visually unappealing.

[howaboutme]

Welcome, thank looks good. I actually like the rockwork, very natural looking. You may not get a long cycle considering you have all live rock that's fully cured.

[Jeff721]

Just tested my water in the tank. Is it ok to use API freshwater master kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate?

If so, Ammonia is .5ppm, nitrite is 0, and nitrate looks to be between 0 and 5ppm.

 

I am having a problem with evaporation and salinity though. How far is too far of a swing?

When I start out, the salinity/specific gravity is 1.024-1.025, 2 days later it goes to 1.026-1.030, how unhealthy is that for livestock? Will I be able to keep anything alive?

[YHSublime]

Just tested my water in the tank. Is it ok to use API freshwater master kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate?

If so, Ammonia is .5ppm, nitrite is 0, and nitrate looks to be between 0 and 5ppm.

 

I am having a problem with evaporation and salinity though. How far is too far of a swing?

When I start out, the salinity/specific gravity is 1.024-1.025, 2 days later it goes to 1.026-1.030, how unhealthy is that for livestock? Will I be able to keep anything alive?

 

You'll be able to keep things alive, but it wont be good for them swinging drastically like that, and that in turn could cause stress, which in turn means the short answer is no. And yes. But no. Somebody else will have a better explanation than me, this is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt. Lets take a look at why... it's strange your water is evaporating so quickly. I only had to top off every 3-4 days. Are you using the water level gauge on the side of your sump? It's got a pretty tight range, but it's a great indicator. You might just have to top off regularly. Have you considered an ATO? You are topping off with RO/DI water, and not saltwater, correct?

[Jeff721]

Yeah, I marked a line on the little window/gauge. Topping off with RO/DI. Monday after top-off it was 1,024, then today 1.026 before top-off. However, Saturday to Moday was a jump from 1.025 to 1.030. Odd.

 

But then again, maybe I aught to get a refractometer instead of the floating arm hydrometer.

[YHSublime]

Yeah, I marked a line on the little window/gauge. Topping off with RO/DI. Monday after top-off it was 1,024, then today 1.026 before top-off. However, Saturday to Moday was a jump from 1.025 to 1.030. Odd.

 

But then again, maybe I aught to get a refractometer instead of the floating arm hydrometer.

 

Yeah, junk it, not accurate. Refractometer is the way to go. The problem is the hydrometer imo.

 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

 

[howaboutme]

Is it ok to use API freshwater master kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate?

 

I wouldn't think so. The salinity factor would make me think that you have to use a saltwater test kit.

[YHSublime]

Sorry, last night I was on the phone, and halfway asleep. I used a hydrometer for 2 days, and it was garbage. Make the investment and get a decent refractometer. Also, make the investment in a reef test kit, don't cut corners on the easy (and cheaper) things, you'll end up with a bigger headache down the line.

[Jeff721]

After a trip to my LFS I found out that my ammonia is back down to 0, nitrite is 0, and nitrate is minimal. Looks like I am cycled enough to get started. Besides, I had all cured live rock and live sand.

 

So I added another pound of cured live rock, 4 small Nassarius snails, 4 blue-legged hermit crabs, and a single turbo snail that is about the size of a quarter. There was a small/decent amount of green and a lot of brown "diatom-ish" algae growing. I don't know how long I'll actually keep the turbo snail since I've seen how big they get, but he's doing a great job so far.

 

I asked them about the fresh vs. salt test kit too, he says the ammonia test is the same for fresh and salt, they used strips for nitrite/nitrate. I might do the same, the liquid test is so tedious.

 

Also ordered a refractometer. My wallet hates me again for making it work out.

[OldReefer]

That green stuff could be he start of Bryopsis which is a misery once it gets established. Take out the rocjpk and pour hydrogen peroxide from the drug store over the green stuff. That will kill the green suff but nothing else.

[howaboutme]

I asked them about the fresh vs. salt test kit too, he says the ammonia test is the same for fresh and salt, they used strips for nitrite/nitrate. I might do the same, the liquid test is so tedious.

 

Do some research, the test is the same but the color charts are different. Make sure you have the saltwater color chart.

[Smorf]

Do some research, the test is the same but the color charts are different. Make sure you have the saltwater color chart.

 

+1 to this. I have compared the color charts side by side. The ammonia is "shifted" by one shade. Yellow is zero on the freshwater, but the lightest green is zero on the saltwater test. Nitrite and Nitrate color charts are identical.

[Jeff721]

I have gotten my refractometer n the mail and put it to use. It's amazing how much more of a consistant reading I get versus the hydrometer.

 

Also, yesterday I received my auto-top-off switch I will have to set up the rest of this system and find another outlet for it to go into. Seriously, where do you guys find all the electrical outlets to run your systems?!?!

 

Will I need to run a heater in the top-off resevoir? Or is it such a small amount going in that I need not worry?

Edited April 5, 2013 by Jeff721

[zygote2k]

you should be able to run that tank with one power strip.

1 heater, 1 main pump, 1 or 2 lights with a timer, 1 top-off, 1 protein skimmer.

ditch all additional powerheads and run it stock. put med flow corals like mushrooms, zoas, sinularias and you'll be fine.

 

no need to worry about a heater in the top off. what happens if you forget to fill the top-off?

[Jeff721]

Right now, as far as power goes I've got:

Slot 1. Heater

Slot 2. Blue LED (moonlights?)

Slot 3. Return pump

Slot 4. Circulator pump - going to be replaced with ATO

Slots 5-6. Timer with two light plugs and cooling fan plug - Timer covers two outlets :(

 

Slot ?. I want to run a refugium light on the back

Slot ?. If I ever decide to do a skimmer

 

Would also be nice to have a place to plug in my heater and powerhead for water change water. But I can do that elsewhere in the house.