treesprite February 4, 2013 February 4, 2013 It would be nice for someone to post a list of corals with their best specific dipping procedures.
scott711 February 4, 2013 February 4, 2013 AEFW are typically 17mm long and 10 mm wide. The size of eggs are even smaller. Using a 50-100 micron filter sock would filter out adutls out if they were free floating in the water column. Here is one article discussing them, but there are tons of information on the net: http://reefbuilders.com/2011/04/15/acropora-eating-flatworms/
Sharkey18 February 4, 2013 February 4, 2013 Note: Coral RX or Revive does nothing to eradicate AEFW or red bugs. Really? Then why am I dipping at all? Argh. Ok So I assume the bayer method does address the AEFW? I've had red bugs before, not so worried about them as they are easy enough to deal with but definitely looking to avoid AEFW.
ridetheducati February 4, 2013 February 4, 2013 Not wanting to sound like an alarmist, but AEFW is arguably the worst pest to have in a closed environment. The clean-up process is labor intensive and can kill the hobby spirit.
nbgen12 February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 (edited) Can AEFW survive without SPS corals? Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2 Edited February 5, 2013 by nbgen12
ridetheducati February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 AEFW need Acropora to live and survive. A best practice is to run the display fallow of Acropora for 6 weeks.
ridetheducati February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 I always keep a tri-color acropora in my system as it will be the first coral to show signs of distress from Red bugs and AEFWs. I have other corals as well that I take water chemistry cues. For example, if the Gomezi axial corallites are not copper colored, alkalinity is off. Viewing four or five corals can tell me whether nitrates or phosphates are elevated.
GraffitiSpotCorals February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 Man I think this converstation should keep going for sure, if you have read something here and don't understand it. RESEARCH IT. Don't learn the hard way. Basser do you have any pictures of thoes sea spiders???
basser9 February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 In 2010 i had 2 small sps frags that would not grow or even open up i dipped and dipped them nothing worked so i got a flashlight and got a look at them at night. At least 20 crazy looking white dadylonglegged looking things were all over the sps frags searched around and found out they were a form of seaspyders. They only came out after dark and they move just like a dadylongleg and seemed to like certain sps. This pick is not mine but these are what i had.....i caught a few and showed a few cmas guys they thought i was kidding.......check your tank at night you never know.
CaptainRon February 5, 2013 Author February 5, 2013 Man I think this converstation should keep going for sure, if you have read something here and don't understand it. RESEARCH IT. Don't learn the hard way. Basser do you have any pictures of thoes sea spiders??? I agree. Thanks for all the responses, this has been a really great learning experience.
Origami February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 Ok So I assume the bayer method does address the AEFW? I've had red bugs before, not so worried about them as they are easy enough to deal with but definitely looking to avoid AEFW. So look at Mike Henley's results from using Bayer as a dip. I pinned his slides on Reef Aquarium Pests from our meeting in the Propagation and Breeding forum. Remember, Mike's a professional on staff at the National Zoo in the invertebrates area. The AEFW question and his results with Bayer can be found towards the end of the slide deck.
scott711 February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 Really? Then why am I dipping at all? Argh. Ok So I assume the bayer method does address the AEFW? I've had red bugs before, not so worried about them as they are easy enough to deal with but definitely looking to avoid AEFW. Revive does not kill the eggs. Which is the only way to stop the cycle. If you see the eggs, they need to be scraped off. Revive does stun the adults and with a gentle swirl in the dip you are able to knock them off of coral. No dip (to date) has the ability to kill the eggs. There are a lot of experiments going on to try and find a way to kill the eggs. I am working on an experiment with another type of insecticide aside from bayer to see how it works. I just need more specimens Like Tony said the best way to totally eradicate them is to leave your tank fallow (without acropora)for more than 4 weeks, since tests have revealed that eggs hatch in an average of 21 days. The eggs will always be toward the base of the coral or where there is dead tissue. The adults are very hard to see because they take on the color of their hosts and only after dipping you can clearly see what they look like.
Origami February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 So look at Mike Henley's results from using Bayer as a dip. I pinned his slides on Reef Aquarium Pests from our meeting in the Propagation and Breeding forum. Remember, Mike's a professional on staff at the National Zoo in the invertebrates area. The AEFW question and his results with Bayer can be found towards the end of the slide deck. BTW, the dip strength is 1 Tbsp of Bayer to 1 gallon of salt water. Aerate using an airstone. Dip duration is 15 minutes. Kills AEFW adults. Does not kill eggs. Manual removal advised. QT corals also advised.
ridetheducati February 5, 2013 February 5, 2013 Revive does not kill the eggs. Which is the only way to stop the cycle. If you see the eggs, they need to be scraped off. Revive does stun the adults and with a gentle swirl in the dip you are able to knock them off of coral. No dip (to date) has the ability to kill the eggs. There are a lot of experiments going on to try and find a way to kill the eggs. I am working on an experiment with another type of insecticide aside from bayer to see how it works. I just need more specimens Like Tony said the best way to totally eradicate them is to leave your tank fallow (without acropora)for more than 4 weeks, since tests have revealed that eggs hatch in an average of 21 days. The eggs will always be toward the base of the coral or where there is dead tissue. The adults are very hard to see because they take on the color of their hosts and only after dipping you can clearly see what they look like. Just to add. Eggs are only found on dead skeleton or plug, not on live tissue.
GraffitiSpotCorals April 24, 2015 April 24, 2015 Good bump! I got rid of aefw using revive as my dip when I was doing my dipping proccess. It worked OK for me. I would not suggest using a weekly dip on all acros if you have large colonies with areas you can't see because the aefw will migrate to that area like they know you can't see them. Horrible pest, and I agree with tony, that it will demolish your spirit for the hobby. But if your to paranoid about pests that can ruin it too. Be prepared and have a plan for every possible pest if your keeping species specific tanks. I have seen and bought frags from very well known people on forums that had aefw on their corals. Just because an person is "popular" doesn't mean they take the proper precautions to keep the frags they are selling you pest free. And money will make people sell infected corals, simple as that. My favorite quote from a popular forum seller... "But you would not have bought it if I told you I had a aefw problem..." I highly doubt he told ANY the other hundred or so people he sold to either.
GraffitiSpotCorals April 24, 2015 April 24, 2015 I use Bayer for aceopora dips now though, a weak revive solution would leave some aefw moving around or squirming on the bottom. I want them dead if they are there, so I can see them. Sometimes they will stay attached to an acro unless you really baste it.
GraffitiSpotCorals April 24, 2015 April 24, 2015 Wow just went to check for his thread and its still being bumped and selling corals. I hope he got the aefw taken care of... I also noticed a member from here talking to him about frags. Dip and or qt your corals guys.
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