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Evergrow D120's on a 375 FOWLR


zygote2k

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hard to see their lighting ability with all the light coming in those windows. though i am sure they light it up fine. so would regular light bulbs. it's just a fowlr right.

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you need to get the PAR meter at the bottom of that 40" depth and report back! at 50% intensity these guys will sizzle SPS in a jiffy if you aren't careful!

Edited by monkiboy
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you need to get the PAR meter at the bottom of that 40" depth and report back! at 50% intensity these guys will sizzle SPS in a jiffy if you aren't careful!

I had 2 radions at 100% intensity - and my SPS were brown. Very skeptical these would "sizzle SPS in a jiffy" at 50%. :tongue:

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You can't blame brown corals on lack of light intensity, there are several other factors that play in like nutrients good and bad, elements, duration, flow, and spectrum . Good old Iwasaki 5k bulbs grow coral like crazy and have great intensity and PAR readings but the corals will be brown.

 

People always think that just because a coral is brown it is not getting enough light. Some corals can actually turn brown under very high light because they allow the additional zooxanthellae to populate the tissue. They do this when growing fast and needing to produce additional energy requirements they can't get from the tank. If the coral can take in energy via polyps gathering food from the water it will thin out the zooxanthellae as needed to maintain the energy it needs.

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+1 to coral hind.

 

I am running radions and I have had to move several corals OUT of the bright light, to maintain color. Specifically, my miami hurricane chalice is gorgeous off to the side, but I moved it to the center of the tank last week and it was browning by Saturday. I moved it back to the sides of the tank and it is doing better. And my radions are only running at a max of 70% for 2 hours. Other corals are coloring up well under the bright light.

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I had 2 radions at 100% intensity - and my SPS were brown. Very skeptical these would "sizzle SPS in a jiffy" at 50%. :tongue:

this was my experience with these specific lights but i undertand your skepticism and can appreciate it.

 

i don't have a 40" deep tank but at 50% on both potentiometers, my SPS at 18" deep unfortunately "sizzled" away in a day i was away. thankfully, i came back when i did and was able to lower the intensity to 35 and 25% and borrow the PAR meter on here and determine a proper location for them.

 

these lights with their DIY spectrum, affordable price tag, and great customer service (especially with US retailers now) are proving to be a great alternative.

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You can't blame brown corals on lack of light intensity, there are several other factors that play in like nutrients good and bad, elements, duration, flow, and spectrum . Good old Iwasaki 5k bulbs grow coral like crazy and have great intensity and PAR readings but the corals will be brown.

 

People always think that just because a coral is brown it is not getting enough light. Some corals can actually turn brown under very high light because they allow the additional zooxanthellae to populate the tissue. They do this when growing fast and needing to produce additional energy requirements they can't get from the tank. If the coral can take in energy via polyps gathering food from the water it will thin out the zooxanthellae as needed to maintain the energy it needs.

 

Perhaps. But they started to color up within 1 week of switching to my MH. Assuming the "other factors" did not change in 1 week, do you suggest 2 radions put out more light than a 400w MH?

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Sounds like 2 Radions are much more powerful than a single 400w MH if the coral went from brown to color after the switch.

After seeing some pictures of the D120's next to a Radion, it seems like a no brainer to get the Chinese fixture. I'm wondering if Radions aren't made in China also...

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Perhaps. But they started to color up within 1 week of switching to my MH. Assuming the "other factors" did not change in 1 week, do you suggest 2 radions put out more light than a 400w MH?

They could indeed put out more PUR, not PAR, then the MH. I'm saying that intensity is not always the main factor and you must also compare spectrum and the other factors I listed. LED's may not look as bright as a MH but that doesn't mean it has less light of the wave length the coral needs or even can get burned by. You have to understand that part of the spectrum emitted by LED's can not be seen by our eyes but it can be a PUR that zooxanthellae absorb.

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You guys are scaring me. I have two radions for my new build.

Edited by pizzaguy
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Here is a good read that might help to explain some of it. It's long but well worth the read.

 

http://www.americana...m_Lighting.html

 

 

 

LEDs can't even be compared with the use of a PAR meter, the PUR of the diode is what's important! ... the point is that using MH as a tool in which to compare LED lighting to is a misnomer.

 

Taken from this article: http://blog.captive-aquatics.com/captive_aquatics/2010/11/comparing-leds-theyre-not-metal-halides.html

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