Ryan's 150g Marineland Deep Dimension!

[.OptimusPrime.]

Use the net in each hand method Bob Fenner mentioned!

 

Glad to hear the tank is turning around! I am fallow and just started the QT process. This will suck.

[Mike Mann]

i have an aqua medic fish trap ill sell you worked great for me to catch my tangs and clowns. its brand new in the box, i bought too many. its $40 from fosters and smith ill sell it for $20 if your interested.

[Ryan S]

As you can see below, the hair algae is gone, but the cyano is everywhere. I use a toothbrush every weekend when I do my water change on the rocks, and suck a lot of it out. I also stir the surface of the sand and suck that up too. But it seems to come back stronger each time. Should I go with 3 days without lights, followed by a 20% water change, or just wait it out?

 

4/30/2012 Front Shot:

 

Left Side:

 

Right Side:

[Ryan S]

i have an aqua medic fish trap ill sell you worked great for me to catch my tangs and clowns. its brand new in the box, i bought too many. its $40 from fosters and smith ill sell it for $20 if your interested.

 

Mike, let me try the 20oz DIY bottle trap I found on youtube. If that doesn't work, I'll definitely take you up on that.

[bcoop78]

Ryan, what (if any) macroalgae are you running in your fuge?

[Ryan S]

Ryan, what (if any) macroalgae are you running in your fuge?

 

unfortunately, none. my sump is very small, only 20g, and with the mag return pump, baffles, recirc CS1, heater, and 2 MJ1200s inside - there is no room for a fuge with any macro algae. i wish there was, but i was told unless you have a large fuge with lots of macroalgae, something small wouldn't make any difference at all (even if i could've fit 1-5g of macroalgae down there).

 

I run gfo and carbon; and was hoping my gfo could eat up the PO4?

[surf&turf]

Looks good, looks like from the pictures, your cyano is behind the rocks were the flow is lower. Maybe move the MP's around a little to experiment with the flow.

Also cyano doesn't necessarily mean your P04 is high, just an imbalance of bacteria.

[bcoop78]

unfortunately, none. my sump is very small, only 20g, and with the mag return pump, baffles, recirc CS1, heater, and 2 MJ1200s inside - there is no room for a fuge with any macro algae. i wish there was, but i was told unless you have a large fuge with lots of macroalgae, something small wouldn't make any difference at all (even if i could've fit 1-5g of macroalgae down there).

 

I run gfo and carbon; and was hoping my gfo could eat up the PO4?

 

My first system was a cyano nightmare. My second, a barebottom with a fuge, never had a drop.

 

 

Looks good, looks like from the pictures, your cyano is behind the rocks were the flow is lower. Maybe move the MP's around a little to experiment with the flow.

Also cyano doesn't necessarily mean your P04 is high, just an imbalance of bacteria.

 

This is true. But so is the statement that high PO4 can be the cause. Maybe a temporary fuge with DSB would be helpful? This was recommended to me on this forum, but I didn't like the idea due to aesthetics.... I'm no expert- but I think Ryan would definitely benefit from a larger sump, with a refugium.

[Ryan S]

Looks good, looks like from the pictures, your cyano is behind the rocks were the flow is lower. Maybe move the MP's around a little to experiment with the flow.

Also cyano doesn't necessarily mean your P04 is high, just an imbalance of bacteria.

 

I have both MP40s at 100% on Reef Crest mode already. I placed them in the same locations that Andy had his 2 when he had the tank I think. I wonder how I could place them for better flow coverage around the tank? Any ideas there?

 

Chris Tran recommended 1 MP60 instead of the 2 MP40s. I would put it smack in the center back of the tank I suppose. I was worried the MP60 would toss the sand everywhere (especially in the front of the tank if I placed it in the back center?), but maybe it would be more viable? I was sort of thinking 2 power heads, even if just MP40s, would provide better coverage in the tank, but I could totally be wrong there?

 

I could place them on the right and left sides, opposite each other, and do some sort of anti sync or something I suppose?

[Ryan S]

My first system was a cyano nightmare. My second, a barebottom with a fuge, never had a drop.

 

I saw a tank on RC the other day, an SPS tank out of Brazil. It looks like he glued a layer of white sand to the bottom and it looks great. Better looking than a black bare bottom, but none of the pain of a sand bed. If I was starting this tank from scratch tomorrow... I'd probably copy that and run a MP60 in the bank on 100%! I bet I wouldn't have cyano then because the inside of the tank would be a tornado of awesomeness.

 

I originally went with a 3" sand bed because I wanted a shrimp/goby pair, and now I just want a SPS tank, so I don't need the sand bed at all. *thinking to self, I wonder how hard it would be to remove the rock, then all of the sand, then put the rock back...*

Edited April 30, 2012 by Ryan S

[surf&turf]

I see the MP's on the back wall, so they are hitting the front of the tank and bouncing back against the rock. The cyano looks to be behind the rock.

 

If you had them on the sides alternating, would maybe get some better flow between the rocks. just a thought.

 

Don't remove all the sand at once, if you want to take it out, siphon some out each time you do a water change.

 

 

[BowieReefer84]

It is the pukani I think. It is just a waiting game.

[bcoop78]

<br />I see the MP's on the back wall, so they are hitting the front of the tank and bouncing back against the rock. The cyano looks to be behind the rock.<br />

<br />

If you had them on the sides alternating, would maybe get some better flow between the rocks. just a thought.<br />

<br />

Don't remove all the sand at once, if you want to take it out, siphon some out each time you do a water change.<br />

<br /><br />

<br /><br /><br />

I agree with the gradual removal of the sand, if that is indeed what you choose to do. However, I have been reading about the benefits of a sand bed; and being that yours is 3" deep, which many believe to be the lower threshold of depth of where a benefit is realized. The aerobic bacteria are responsible for the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate. The anaerobic bacteria that live deep within the live rock and sand bed however, actually turn this nitrate into nitrogen gas. Water movement is just one of the key elements that help reduce cyano, but nitrate and PO4 still remain. With no refugium, you rely solely on your skimmer for mechanical filtration, which removes waste prior to the nitrogen cycle, and your live rock, which I believe is mostly aerobic bacteria. I've never kept an SPS-dominant tank, and I do know that they require the most water movement of the corals, but I think going bare-bottom would only solve half of the issue. Do you not have room in the stand of a 150DD for a larger sump?

[Max Ivers]

Ryan if you are serious about wanting to make a faux sand bed shoot me a PM. I made a small test one as well as one for a 36" cube. 100% reef safe and it looks incredible. You cant even tell it is fake until you turn the 2 mp40's to full blast together and not one grain moves.

[Ryan S]

It is the pukani I think. It is just a waiting game.

 

I think it could be the rock as well. Some folks have issues with the brs pukani for 6 months. I'm only 3 months in. I have 2 vortechs at 100% and I think the locations couldn't be better so maybe it's just a waiting issue.

 

Do you not have room in the stand of a 150DD for a larger sump?

 

I could've done a custom sump, but it was very expensive ($400). This sump cost $20. However, even if I had a bigger sump, I'd lose space under the stand for my MR5 reactors and both of my Calc and Alk jugs, which I need as well. The biggest drawback to this stand is the lack of space underneath by far. Maybe I can just turn the skimmer up a little more?

 

Ryan if you are serious about wanting to make a faux sand bed shoot me a PM. I made a small test one as well as one for a 36" cube. 100% reef safe and it looks incredible. You cant even tell it is fake until you turn the 2 mp40's to full blast together and not one grain moves.

 

I would love to see photos and hear how you made it. This sand I have is awesome sand (Omair gets the credit for showing it to me first). It's fiji "pink" but white as can be. I will be sad to see it go if I do decide to remove it, but I love the idea of cranking my flow in the tank. (Another thought - I have egg crate under the sand that the rocks are resting on - if I remove the sand, the egg crate would also need to go -- not sure how much I like putting these large pukani pieces directly on the glass - or the faux bottom?)

[CaptainRon]

Another question, can I cut the bottom part off of a frag plug with something, like SPS bone cutters maybe? I'd like to glue the plugs to the rock, but without the bottom plug part (with it they'd stick up all over the tank and look dumb). Any reason why I couldn't/shouldn't just cut the bottom part off? I'd glue the SPS frags directly to the rock, but they are encrusting on the plugs, so I figured I'd mount them like that around the tank.

 

 

I saw someone already answered but thought I'd chime in too. Yep, you can knock those bottoms off - I doo all the time. If you already have those bone cutters, they'll work just fine. If not, I use a pair of dog nail clippers that works well on frag plugs and corals.

 

You didn't ask but I'll mention how I glue down frags - use both putty epoxy and super glue. I'll put a thin layer of super glue on the frag plug, the a small amount of putty epoxy on the frag plug followed by another bit of super glue on the putty epoxy. Place your frag plug and most often if stays put very well. The best part is that the plugs will pop off pretty easy with a twist of a flat head screw driver if you decide you want to move the coral later.

 

Tank is coming along nicely.

[Max Ivers]

I would love to see photos and hear how you made it. This sand I have is awesome sand (Omair gets the credit for showing it to me first). It's fiji "pink" but white as can be. I will be sad to see it go if I do decide to remove it, but I love the idea of cranking my flow in the tank. (Another thought - I have egg crate under the sand that the rocks are resting on - if I remove the sand, the egg crate would also need to go -- not sure how much I like putting these large pukani pieces directly on the glass - or the faux bottom?)

 

I will try and take some pictures of it. The tank/FSB is at Ctenophore (Justin)'s house. We used my old sand (Tropic Eden Reef Flakes) and washed it out very thoroughly, then dried it very well by baking it on cookie sheets to drive off the water (a very important step in the process). So you would vacuum out the old sand and then use that to make your FSB. The whole point of the fake sand bed is to give the appearance of natural sand but you can turn the whole sheet upside down as a cool trick

[onux20]

I have both MP40s at 100% on Reef Crest mode already. I placed them in the same locations that Andy had his 2 when he had the tank I think. I wonder how I could place them for better flow coverage around the tank? Any ideas there?

 

I could place them on the right and left sides, opposite each other, and do some sort of anti sync or something I suppose?

 

No two tanks are alike, due to rock placement, rock size/shape, how water flows around rocks, coral placement, etc. I would experiment with placement of the 40s. I actually like yours on the back wall, they kinda blend in. Maybe spread them out or move them up an inch or so, particularly the lower one.

 

I like the two smaller 40s vice the one large 60. Allows you more flexibility and redundancy in case of one fails.

 

Tank looks great.

[Fishie]

I wouldn't go with a mp60 in that size...I think the 2 40s will perform better

Plus I've heard of a lot of fish dying in 60s too

 

How many hours do ur lights run for....do they get sunlight bleeding in during odd hours

 

I haven't had issues with my pukani and I only cured them for a week to 10 days

[trockafella]

Your MP40s are way to close together. TYou pretty much only have 1 flow pattern. Put them on opposite sides, or 1 on the back and the other on the saide, but further apart. You could even put one of them halfway down facing the cyano covered area in the back.

[Ryan S]

Thanks all. I will try spreading them apart on the back wall a bit first. I want to avoid placing them on the sides if I can. I don't know if they are running in sync mode, or anti-sync mode. Don't know how to check or how to change that, but if I could find out, would running them in anti-sync mode help?

 

Max - what did you glue the sand too? Some sort of a "board"? I will definitely keep the faux sandbed idea in the back of my head if this cyano doesn't go away, or if I want to add more flow to the tank, but it's not something I plan on doing anytime soon.

 

Ron - thank you for the mounting advice! I will definitely be using it! I have about 40 frags to glue/epoxy all over the place. Hopefully I have enough locations for everything, including a little growing room too!

 

Fishie - the lights are on a long time (see chart below). There may be sunlight coming in from the sliding door or the windows to the right as well.

 

 

On another note. The GF has approved a small tank in the bedroom, if I want. It could be a QT tank or a frag tank... Something to think about as well...

[onux20]

I don't know if they are running in sync mode, or anti-sync mode. Don't know how to check or how to change that, but if I could find out, would running them in anti-sync mode help?

 

I run mine either reefcrest (yellow) or Nutrient export mode (purple/pinkish). Always anti sync.

 

Just found this for setting the modes

 

Once it's set as a slave just push the mode button and it will cycle through

white=sync

orange=anti sync

tourquoise=back of tank mode.

 

Or go to the website and download the owners manual.

[Ryan S]

The 20oz coke bottle DIY fish trap failed last night. I woke up with 0 fish inside buy tons of snails and hermit crabs eating up all the food! I will try a 2L version this weekend and see if that works. Then I will try the 2 net method and catching them from above. If THAT doesn't work, then I will drive out to Mike's place and get his trap from him. The cardinals are small and fast like damsels, very hard to catch!

 

In other news -- with Novi selling his tank soon, I couldn't help but wonder what my tank would look like with more rock inside. I am trying to picture in my head, what a "pile" of rock in the center of the tank would look like covered with SPS...

 

Another thing on my mind - dakotasreef is selling 2 radions right now. If one is still available, I couldn't help but picture a third in the canopy. If I couldn't grow ANYTHING with 3 of the dang things in my canopy, then I will be the first person to pee on them before I switch out to 400w MHs! Again, not changing anything... But very tempted here...

 

Adam got back to me on a custom sump or my "chaeto box" idea. Very nice guy and his prices are much better than I am used too. Holding off for now to see if adjusting the flow in the tank rids it of the cyano, but I still don't think having a small chaeto box down in the stand would hurt anything either.

[Jan]

I've not failed catching the most difficult fish (3 damsels) several hours after the lights are out for the night. When the lights come on they are so disoriented that they'll swim right into the net. They become very easy to catch when taken off guard.

 

The 20oz coke bottle DIY fish trap failed last night. I woke up with 0 fish inside buy tons of snails and hermit crabs eating up all the food! I will try a 2L version this weekend and see if that works. Then I will try the 2 net method and catching them from above. If THAT doesn't work, then I will drive out to Mike's place and get his trap from him. The cardinals are small and fast like damsels, very hard to catch!

 

In other news -- with Novi selling his tank soon, I couldn't help but wonder what my tank would look like with more rock inside. I am trying to picture in my head, what a "pile" of rock in the center of the tank would look like covered with SPS...

 

Another thing on my mind - dakotasreef is selling 2 radions right now. If one is still available, I couldn't help but picture a third in the canopy. If I couldn't grow ANYTHING with 3 of the dang things in my canopy, then I will be the first person to pee on them before I switch out to 400w MHs! Again, not changing anything... But very tempted here...

 

Adam got back to me on a custom sump or my "chaeto box" idea. Very nice guy and his prices are much better than I am used too. Holding off for now to see if adjusting the flow in the tank rids it of the cyano, but I still don't think having a small chaeto box down in the stand would hurt anything either.

[Incredible Corals]

I wouldn't worry about the Cyno. Blow it off the frags that it's close to. However, every tank I have ever setup had cyno in the beginning and only lasted for a month or two. It will go away on it's own as the tank matures.