Prime's 75 gallon build

[hypertech]

What is that valve for?

 

Is the tank somewhere you will be able to get to the back?

[.OptimusPrime.]

What is that valve for?

 

Is the tank somewhere you will be able to get to the back?

 

Ill have about a foot between the wall and the pipe with enough room to get around back if needed.

 

Figured if there was too much drain making noise i could throttle it down if need be but ill probably keep it full open

 

Was i mistaken in this thinking?

[hypertech]

With only one drain, do not restrict it.

 

Gate valves are better for that purpose. Also, I'd put all the adjustments somewhere easy to reach.

[.OptimusPrime.]

With only one drain, do not restrict it.

 

Gate valves are better for that purpose. Also, I'd put all the adjustments somewhere easy to reach.

 

Noted. I will keep the drain open at all times.

 

The valves are placed where I can easily go behind the tank and restrict the flow (return) since I wont be touching the drain now.

 

I might moved the valve for the return under the stand. The drain is as is since I've already glued that in place...

[Integral9]

Looks pretty good. Having the valve on the drain will make it easier to work in the sump with the pump off. I would extend the drain pipe down as far as you can but leaving a couple of inches of room below it. I did not glue my pipe in place, but only because I have to pull it out to change my filter socks. I could have probably come up with a better plan, had I thought more about it. Its a little unerving, but the long it runs, the better the pipe stays in the fitting. I'd move the ball valve closer to the union. Less water will pour out when you service the pump that way. also, since the returns are different distances from the pump, you need a valve to close off the shorter run, slightly, or the flow will be asymmetric from the returns.

 

Sent from my HTC Aria

Edited October 14, 2011 by Integral9

[.OptimusPrime.]

Looks pretty good. Having the valve on the drain will make it easier to work in the sump with the pump off. I would extend the drain pipe down as far as you can but leaving a couple of inches of room below it. I did not glue my pipe in place, but only because I have to pull it out to change my filter socks. I could have probably come up with a better plan, had I thought more about it. Its a little unerving, but the long it runs, the better the pipe stays in the fitting. I'd move the ball valve closer to the union. Less water will pour out when you service the pump that way. also, since the returns are different distances from the pump, you need a valve to close off the shorter run, slightly, or the flow will be asymmetric from the returns.

 

Sent from my HTC Aria

 

I have the pipe sitting about I think 3-5" inches from the bottom, but don't quote me on it.

 

Is having that one return pushing more flow going to be that much of a problem?? I can get an extra valve no problem, I'm just wondering.

 

Also, I DO have to glue the piece of pipe coming from the union from the sump correct? even though it will be under the water all the time??

 

 

[trockafella]

You should get a WAV (wave action valve) for your returns. Its a device made to rotate flow back and forth, also known as a wavemaker. They are locally made by one of our members, and its an excellent product. Here is the link.. http://www.thewav.info/

[.OptimusPrime.]

You should get a WAV (wave action valve) for your returns. Its a device made to rotate flow back and forth, also known as a wavemaker. They are locally made by one of our members, and its an excellent product. Here is the link.. http://www.thewav.info/

 

If I hadn't already purchased my powerheads...I would have definitely looked in to this...Unless there is a reason that 2x750EVOs wouldn't provide enough flow, then game on.

 

Thanks for the link. Bookmarked for future reference.

[trockafella]

It wouldnt be a bad addition to what you have. @ of those pumps will produce a good amount of flow, but after your rocks etc are in it will change. Its more about the changes in flow direction/pattern than just having flow. Just something to consider down the road, you can always add it later.

[.OptimusPrime.]

Piping is all done....now for leak test...

 

Edit: I can just fill this with regular tap water correct? and the only thing I need to run is the return pump?

Edited October 16, 2011 by .OptimusPrime.

[Coral Hind]

If you are only filling it for a leak test then yes use the tap water. If you are filling it to later mix salt and start the tank then I would go with RO water.

[.OptimusPrime.]

Didn't get a chance to leak test it yesterday..will probably get to it early this week if not today after work.

 

Do I just fill up the DT 75G and leave the sump empty and let with water drain thru the over flow and back up the returns? or do I need to add water to both and then cycle to check for leaks? If i need to add water to the sump should I fill it to baffle height (10inches)?

 

I know there is a way to find out if you have enough room in your sump to catch overflow. Is it as simple as turn off the pump and see what drains and if it will hold??

 

I also have seem to have enough space for a 10-30G Brute trash can off to the side. I have to see the exact measurements of the trashcans to be sure.

Should I use this for ATO instead of a 5G bucket underneath the stand? or should I use it for when I do my water changes / salt mixing??

 

I'd prefer to have this on a dolly. Are there any places that sell the dolly cheaper than the $50+ HD and the other big name stores want for them?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Integral9]

Didn't get a chance to leak test it yesterday..will probably get to it early this week if not today after work.

 

Do I just fill up the DT 75G and leave the sump empty and let with water drain thru the over flow and back up the returns? or do I need to add water to both and then cycle to check for leaks? If i need to add water to the sump should I fill it to baffle height (10inches)?

 

I know there is a way to find out if you have enough room in your sump to catch overflow. Is it as simple as turn off the pump and see what drains and if it will hold??

 

I also have seem to have enough space for a 10-30G Brute trash can off to the side. I have to see the exact measurements of the trashcans to be sure.

Should I use this for ATO instead of a 5G bucket underneath the stand? or should I use it for when I do my water changes / salt mixing??

 

I'd prefer to have this on a dolly. Are there any places that sell the dolly cheaper than the $50+ HD and the other big name stores want for them?

 

When I'm leak testing, I start with the sump then work my way up. If the sump holds, then I will switch on the pump to fill / test the return lines. After that I will fill a jug of water up and pour it down the drains to check for leaks there. If that all holds, I fill up the tank to check the bulkheads. Only then will I empty the tap water out and fill it up with RO starting with the tank and letting it drain into the sump down the drains. Once the sump is full, I'll switch on the pumps and top off what I need to. usually the water will rise up about 1/4 inch+ over the drains in the tank when the pumps are on.

 

I would keep the 5g bucket for the ATO and use the brute to fill the bucket when needed. This way, if your ATO goes crazy, you don't overfill your tank too much and cause a flood or tank crash due to reduced salinity.

 

You might try Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply. Also, a 2x4, some dolly wheels, nails and elbow grease come pretty cheap.

Edited October 17, 2011 by Integral9

[John]

I would add a union on your return pipe so that you can do pump maintenance before you add any water...moreover, I would also add one to the drain pipe in case you ever have a problem with the sump...If there is a problem down the road at least you won't have to replace your plumbing this way...

[hypertech]

I dont glue in the last piece of the drain and use a barb fitting with silicone tubing to attach the pump.

[.OptimusPrime.]

When I'm leak testing, I start with the sump then work my way up. If the sump holds, then I will switch on the pump to fill / test the return lines. After that I will fill a jug of water up and pour it down the drains to check for leaks there. If that all holds, I fill up the tank to check the bulkheads. Only then will I empty the tap water out and fill it up with RO starting with the tank and letting it drain into the sump down the drains. Once the sump is full, I'll switch on the pumps and top off what I need to. usually the water will rise up about 1/4 inch+ over the drains in the tank when the pumps are on.

 

I would keep the 5g bucket for the ATO and use the brute to fill the bucket when needed. This way, if your ATO goes crazy, you don't overfill your tank too much and cause a flood or tank crash due to reduced salinity.

 

You might try Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply. Also, a 2x4, some dolly wheels, nails and elbow grease come pretty cheap.

 

I'll see if I can try it this way way tonight and see how it goes. Harbor freight has a dolly for 10 bucks so that's cheap and easy! Thanks!

 

Didn't think about the ATO going crazy. Maybe I'll just use the bucket for water changes and salt mixing then.

 

 

I would add a union on your return pipe so that you can do pump maintenance before you add any water...moreover, I would also add one to the drain pipe in case you ever have a problem with the sump...If there is a problem down the road at least you won't have to replace your plumbing this way...

 

Everything is pretty much glued in at this point. There is no union on the drain (wish I would have put one in now that you mention it) or I can still go back and add it in.

 

The return has a union. its underneath the stand before the first ball valve.

 

I dont glue in the last piece of the drain and use a barb fitting with silicone tubing to attach the pump.

 

Thanks. I think I will leave mine unglued as well. The pipe is about 2-3inches off the bottom of the tank.

 

 

[.OptimusPrime.]

Leak test = FAIL.

 

Plumbing holds. Drain and one return bulkhead do not

 

Back to the drawing board

[.OptimusPrime.]

Found the problem with the leaks. the gaskets were not holding due to some of the chipping that happened after I drilled the tank.

 

Solution: Went to Home Depot and bought a patch of rubber and make a gasket to cover the hole and the slide the bulkhead gasket on top of that. Siliconed it in.

 

No leaks! I'll have to paint the it though, cause it looks stupid having a rubber red color on the black background of the tank.

 

Krylon Fuzion is ok for inside the tank right?

 

A couple of questions: Is there anyway to make the durso quieter, it sounds like the toilet is being flushed the whole time??

 

Can I use the gurgle buster method on the drain outside the tank instead of where the end cap is?

 

Also, I don't know if it was because I didn't have the overflow box on (had to cut it out to get to the leak at the drain bulkhead) but it seemed like the I could never get the water level to go all the way above the hole for the drain. Like it was draining too fast, but if I added more water, the return pump didn't seem like it could keep up with the excess water and there was too much water in the sump(water above the baffle height in all chambers and almost at the rim of sump tank)

 

Will this happen once the over flow is back inside?

 

Sorry if this doesn't make sense

[Integral9]

I don't know about putting paint inside the tank. Seems like it would fail eventually and then you've have paint floating around in your tank. Doesn't your overflow box cover it? Or is this for your return line?

 

I couldn't see this in your pics, but I'm assuming you have a cap on the top of your durso with a hole drilled in it. If not, you need to do that. I'd start with an 1/8" hole or smaller. But, it sounds like you might need to close off your drain a little bit. This might change when you add your overflow box.

[.OptimusPrime.]

You are correct. The overflow will be covered by the box, so its for the return. Do I have any other options or than buying a rubber sheet that is dark gray/black? If not, I will just leave it as is.

 

I have an 1/8 hole in the center already, but I'm thinking its because there is so much draining happening due to the box not being there and just a hole.

 

Will check back once it get siliconed in again.

[Cliff Puckstable]

Can you use clear silicone to seal the leaks? I would think it would be less noticeable.

[hypertech]

How much chipping is there? If the chips are big enough that the gasket from the bulkhead doesn't cover it, I'd honestly be worried about cracks forming. Make sure any chips are nice and smooth. You may be able to sand them or something to make sure they don't form cracks.

 

Adding water to your sump won't change the water level in the display. If the water is not high enough in the display, you may need to raise the overflow box so the teeth are higher. A stronger pump may push the water higher because there is more flow through the teeth, but IMHO, that's not a great solution.

 

Also, FWIW, saltwater is a little quieter than fresh water.

[Integral9]

You are correct. The overflow will be covered by the box, so its for the return. Do I have any other options or than buying a rubber sheet that is dark gray/black? If not, I will just leave it as is.

 

I have an 1/8 hole in the center already, but I'm thinking its because there is so much draining happening due to the box not being there and just a hole.

 

Will check back once it get siliconed in again.

 

hmm.. Does the water level in the tank go above the bulkhead briefly and then suck back down? If so, you need to make your air hole larger. If it's the opposite, where the water just won't go above the bulkhead, then you need to close off your drain line slightly. But that might change when you get the overflow box on there. If the water is above the drain line and you are getting a vortex of air being sucked down, then you need to back off your return pump slightly.

[.OptimusPrime.]

How much chipping is there? If the chips are big enough that the gasket from the bulkhead doesn't cover it, I'd honestly be worried about cracks forming. Make sure any chips are nice and smooth. You may be able to sand them or something to make sure they don't form cracks.

 

Adding water to your sump won't change the water level in the display. If the water is not high enough in the display, you may need to raise the overflow box so the teeth are higher. A stronger pump may push the water higher because there is more flow through the teeth, but IMHO, that's not a great solution.

 

Also, FWIW, saltwater is a little quieter than fresh water.

 

There is only a few chips on one side of each hole. All chips were nice and smooth from what I remember when I drilled them.

 

I was adding water to the DT, but it seemed like the drain was too fast for the return pump to keep up and the sump was getting full. I didnt have the overflow box in there. Its just the hole for the bulkhead for now. Maybe that will change once I get it glued back in.

 

Didnt know that. I was testing with tap water. thanks for the fact

 

 

hmm.. Does the water level in the tank go above the bulkhead briefly and then suck back down? If so, you need to make your air hole larger. If it's the opposite, where the water just won't go above the bulkhead, then you need to close off your drain line slightly. But that might change when you get the overflow box on there. If the water is above the drain line and you are getting a vortex of air being sucked down, then you need to back off your return pump slightly.

 

The water level in the DT sits right at the tip of the bulkhead and all the water gets sucked in like the vortext youre mentioning. Maybe I can take a video.

 

 

[.OptimusPrime.]

here is the video.

 

 

I can't get the water past the top of the hole...

 

any water added to the DT gets back into the sump and you can see the water level in there already.