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Hey everyone!

So I came home today to discover that brown algae is literally everywhere in the tank. It is on the sand and on the new rock addition mostly. What could be the cause? I am including the water parameters as well:

 

Ph 8.4

Nitrate (NO3) 5.0 ppm

Ammonia 0 ppm

Nitrite (NO2) 0 ppm

Phosphate 0.0 ppm

 

I have no idea why the nitrate is so high! I have introduced a new set of LR 2 weeks ago, but I thought it was already cured!!!

 

Please help!

 

Thanks!!!

 

(this LR setup is the new addition to the tank)

 

5603134816_a434d67633.jpg

 

(Algae on and around the sponge)

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(Algae on the new LR)

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its diatoms, will go away on its on, nothing you have to do. And 5 ppm for your nitrates isnt high at all, but what little youe have could be from the new LR, but it could also be from feeding. Where did you buy the rock from? it looks very light colored, quite possible dry rock that was recently seeded. My rock was dry and after 4-5 months now is starting to finally darken up and get some coralline.

 

Nothing to worry about at this point. Just sit back and relax.

Thanks guys! I feel relieved! My protein skimmer is coming in tomorrow so more cleaning is on the way! Also, in terms of current, what do you think of a Vortech MP10? I am considering getting one!

 

its diatoms, will go away on its on, nothing you have to do. And 5 ppm for your nitrates isnt high at all, but what little youe have could be from the new LR, but it could also be from feeding. Where did you buy the rock from? it looks very light colored, quite possible dry rock that was recently seeded. My rock was dry and after 4-5 months now is starting to finally darken up and get some coralline.

 

Nothing to worry about at this point. Just sit back and relax.

I think that would do very well for you. You may dial it down a little though. 1,500GPH is alot for a 20gallon. Maybe to 1,000gph. But if you have SPS they will love it. The variable flow makes an outstanding effect.

I would put that sponge somewhere in the shade where it's not going to be overgrown by algae. It's non-photosynthetic so it doen't need to be out in the light.

(edited)

I was thinking of moving the sponge in the shade too. Thanks! Also any ideas/suggestions why the acro frag turned all white in a day?

 

5620143133_94b72e8098.jpg

 

I would put that sponge somewhere in the shade where it's not going to be overgrown by algae. It's non-photosynthetic so it doen't need to be out in the light.

Edited by Reefoholic

Welcome to your cycling tank! Some time, current , and snails will knock it right out! Im not 100% sure of your tank size, but if its under 40-50 gallons, the 10 is fine. Any more, you may want to take the jump for the 40. Wet rock doesnt equal cured rock.

I suggest that you buy and read a good book like "The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium" by Sven Fossa. The Julian Sprung books are also good.

These books will tell you most everyhting you have asked questions about.

 

the acro frag died because your little tank isn't ready for SPS yet. The sponge will most likely die too. It needs lots of planktonic foods to eat- your tank cannot provide it. the sponge will hang in there for 6 months or so, but it will most certainly wither away.

(edited)

All the other SPS frags are doing just fine if not great. That's why I am confused about that one frag dying! I also dose Zooplanktos-s from Brightwell to provide more feeding options for the corals. I love that red sponge, and hopefully I can keep it happy, healthy and alive...

 

 

 

I suggest that you buy and read a good book like "The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium" by Sven Fossa. The Julian Sprung books are also good.

These books will tell you most everyhting you have asked questions about.

 

the acro frag died because your little tank isn't ready for SPS yet. The sponge will most likely die too. It needs lots of planktonic foods to eat- your tank cannot provide it. the sponge will hang in there for 6 months or so, but it will most certainly wither away.

Edited by Reefoholic

All the other SPS frags are doing just fine if not great. That's why I am confused about that one frag dying! I also dose Zooplanktos-s from Brightwell to provide more feeding options for the corals. I love that red sponge, and hopefully I can keep it happy, healthy and alive...

 

those sponges are tough. i've never personally had much luck with sponge unless it arose spontaneously on my rock or was a blue sponge that had been handled well. it is pretty amazing how sponge will grow when the conditions are good for it. i've got new sponge growing in my overflow just 1.5 weeks after getting things moved over :)

 

best of luck. I think you're doing the right things but sponge doesn't always do well under the best of conditions and a newer tank makes it harder imo.

How do you know they are fine if not great? Didn't you just get them? Nothing good in reef tanks happens fast. They are likely all in trouble if your tank is still going through new tank phases and cycling. There is a good chance they will die or at least struggle for a while. About the only way we can judge if something is "doing great" is by observing good growth. It is far too soon to make that judgment for your frags.

 

About the sponge, well, I didn't want to be the one to say it but it's pretty much a goner. It takes a specialized tank to keep them alive in almost all cases. Keep an eye on it, enjoy it while you can , and pull it when it starts to degrade so that it doesn't skunk your water.

Yeah. Stuff doing well for a couple weeks or even month in a fairly new tank isnt common. IHMO it takes a good 5-6 months to maintain decent stability. SPS and sponges can be difficult to survive in established waters let alone a new tank. Stay the path, and I wouldnt be too discouraged about the losses. Like zygote said, reading is the best, my second line of defense is patience.

Curing rock does not do anything for getting rid of any nitrate that is trapped in it/leeching from it.

Your tank also lacks a lot of filtration. A skimmer will help, but I tihnk you would be better to add a sump, and do away with the hang on filter. I just dont think your filtration can really keep up, between feeding the fish and there waste, and feeding corals it may just be to much.

Your tank also lacks a lot of filtration. A skimmer will help, but I tihnk you would be better to add a sump, and do away with the hang on filter. I just dont think your filtration can really keep up, between feeding the fish and there waste, and feeding corals it may just be to much.

 

SUMP ideas for a 20 gal? I thought the cascade filter would do the job.

(edited)

The basic idea is to create an area to house your life support gear. Typically an overflow is used to control the water level in the main tank, and move water down to the sump. Then a pump is used to move the water back up to the main tank.

 

 

The preferred method is to have a built in overflow. Which requires cutting glass, and adding an overflow wall. Your tank is already set up so without upgrading or tearing your setup down your best option is to have a HOB(hang on back) overflow. That is what I use, and I love it. However I've had bad issues with models that need a pump to suck out air build up. But with monthly clog maintenance I love ones with Utubes. It is important that the return pump is near the overflows max flow rate, not ABOVE! This keeps air from settling inside it and impeding water flow. Here is a link to one.

 

http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=2849

 

That is what I have, you may sacrifice a bit of top space for the overflow. But it's better than all your gear hanging in your show tank.

 

Typically I like a sump to be at least 1/2 the size of the main. I have a 75 main, but a 40 sump. Since your tank is smaller I believe another 20 gal would do it. But remember, it gets small fast. Also keep your return pump on the opposite side from your overflow output. To avoid bubbles all over your beautiful tank!

 

I hope this was some help! :happy:

Edited by LanglandJoshua

You don't need a sump. Doth the other filter when your skimmer comes. Water changes and the HOB filter will work fine for you 20g tank.

Morning hypertech,

This is my configuration with the skimmer installed last night (pics below). I am gonna get rid of all the powerheads once my vortech arrives. The skimmer is hanging on the left side of the tank right next to the filter out put. I am confused about "Doth the other filter when your skimmer comes", tho. What do you mean? And any suggestions for a HOB filter?

 

Thanks a lot! I appreciate you guys help very much!

 

 

 

 

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You don't need a sump. Doth the other filter when your skimmer comes. Water changes and the HOB filter will work fine for you 20g tank.

ditto my friend! We are both up very early this moring. Do you think the Protein Skimmer can handle all filtration for the tank? I bought a Aquac Nano Remora with 900 Maxi-jet. What do you think of the placement of the Remora in the tank?

 

I mean ditch. Cell phone auto correct does funny things sometimes and I haven't had my coffee yet today.

(edited)

Cool beans, dude! Thanks a lot for your help! Now, the last addition to the tank will be the Vortech MP10. I mean at this point I have spent good money on this tank, I need to hold back some...

BTW, it wouldn't hurt to keep the cascade canister filter. would it?

 

 

Put it wherever you think it looks best. Doesn't really matter.

Edited by Reefoholic

FWIW, if you were to use an Aquapod 12g tank for example, they only have an internal version of a HOB filter and no protein skimmer. These systems work great right outta the box and you can grow all types of corals as long as you know what you're doing. It's doubtful that the Remora skimmer will perform as expected, but so long as you do regular water changes, and don't have a high water temp issue, you'll be fine with what you have. You only want to put 2 or 3 fish total in 20g, maybe a pair of cleaner shrimps too. Throw in a few hermits and snails and you're good to go. Don't overfeed and stop dosing zooplankton or any other "supplementals" and your tank will thank you with low N03.

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