Origami April 7, 2011 April 7, 2011 It was good meeting you last night, Matt. You'll find that all this testing for ammonia, etc., is only something that you do when your tank is cycling, or if there's something really going wrong in your tank. Otherwise, once your system is operating well, you'll probably never test for ammonia and nitrite again. After cycling, the tests that I perform most frequently are for salinity, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, and phosphates, in descending order. I have a controller, though, that continuously monitors temperature and pH. For example, I check salinty every week during water changes. I'll test alkalinity every few weeks (using a Hanna Checker colorimeter), when things look good and the pH is stable (that is, it's diurnal variation is centered around approximately the same point from day-to-day). (If the pH isn't stable, I probably am running low on kalk, and need to recharge the kalk stirrer.) I only test calcium when my alk has shifted down a lot and I have to determine what I need to add to bring it back to my target levels. So that test is performed every few weeks to every six weeks or so. Magnesium is tested at around the same time as my calcium. I'll test for phosphates from time to time just because I have a phosphate colorimeter and think it's cool to operate. When you're in this "maintenance mode," the primary reason for testing is not for fault diagnosis, but to measure consumption in your system so that you can make appropriate adjustments. So, don't fret about all the testing you're doing now. It's a necessary part of getting set up and we've all gone through it. Sunnier days are ahead.
Saltwaterworx April 8, 2011 April 8, 2011 Ohh... Theres some. for certain parameters. trite, calcium, trate, phos ect.. Its the initial cost on some of them that are off putting..
matt bills April 8, 2011 Author April 8, 2011 Tom you asked me about my lighting I have 105 Watt CF-QUAD 2 front 10000 k white and 2 back 7100 blue Actinics. Thank you Matt
Saltwaterworx April 8, 2011 April 8, 2011 Some of the digital and probe test monitors are relatively expensive, and the price could make a person pass on buying one. not all though.. some maybe in the 40 - $50 range.
Origami April 8, 2011 April 8, 2011 The Hanna checkers are in the $40-$50 range. The one I use the most is alkalinity. It's precision and accuracy are unmatched for the price, in my opinion. I also use the ULR Phosphorus checker, but far less frequently. If budget is tight, I recommend not getting it or the phosphate checker as you're not likely to use them often (unless there's an ongoing problem, that is). One of the other checkers, Iodine, is not useful to this hobby as it's resolution is 0.1 ppm and we need a resolution of 0.01 ppm in this hobby. So pass on that one. You can get a Hanna Checker at Blue Ribbon Koi, near Manassas.
matt bills April 11, 2011 Author April 11, 2011 Todays readings amm 0 nit. 0 Trat 2.5 now can add my clean up crew? or do i do a water change?
Origami April 11, 2011 April 11, 2011 I think that you can add your clean up crew now. There's no need to do a water change. You may be able to add one small fish, too.
matt bills April 11, 2011 Author April 11, 2011 what do the copods look like? how can you tell if they are in your tank?
Saltwaterworx April 11, 2011 April 11, 2011 Magnified, they look like something from outer space. To the naked eye they remind me of little grubs. Sometimes you will see them at night on the glass. You may see some retreating into live rock crevices if you turn on your lights in the middle of the night. Mostly I've found them tucked away in fuges living amongst the algae. Unless you got some established rock, sand, or algae from someone, it may take a while before you have some.
matt bills April 12, 2011 Author April 12, 2011 Todays readings amm 0 nit. 0 Trat 2.5 I have lowered the temp in my tank to 77 I put in 2 turbo smails and 2 hermit crabs
matt bills April 13, 2011 Author April 13, 2011 added cup copods and 3 more snails and 3 hermit crabs
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