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New B and New Tank


matt bills

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Hi all..........

 

 

I just setup a 28 gallon nano and have been reading the articles here. I live in leesburg. 20 lbs of sand and 29 lbs of live rock salt water from Fins and feathers in Ashburn. Turned on the systems with the lights off, filtering with carbon and protien skimmer. I have a cloud from the sand but it is setting little by little. My fault I just poured the sand in. I hope to address with putting floss in the filter to filter that out. Should I put in a shrimp for cycling to get the amonia up? Or just check the levels? the tanks on here are are beautiful. I hope some day I can get to that level.

 

Thanks

 

Matt

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If you purchased live rock from F&F, I'd not bother with adding a shrimp, as the rock is already colonized with bacteria. Instead, take ammonia and nitrite measurements over the next few days to make sure that you don't have any die off from the new setup. Once things have settled, add your clean up crew: Some snails and hermits. Be sure to follow proper acclimation procedures! Inverts are typically much more sensitive to salinity and other parameter changes than fish. Once your cleanup crew is in place, pick a hardy fish (a smallish one) and introduce it to your tank. Pick your livestock with forethought given to the size of your tank and its compatibility with other livestock that you intend to introduce.

 

If you've not already got an auto-topoff system, you may want to consider making that your next investment. It really relieves you of the mundane and frequent, but necessary chore of topping off the tank (with freshwater) to compensate for evaporation and to stabilize salinity.

 

As for the cloudiness you have from your sand: It'll settle in a day or two. Once bacteria begin to colonize the surface of the sand, it will stay down a little better.

 

By the way, welcome to our forum! If you haven't yet considered it, click on the "Why Join WAMAS" link in my signature....

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thank you I will keep you all updated with my progress. Thanks for the help. I have had a 55 gallon salt years back but moved. I didn't have coral in that tank but this one is my starter for coral so i can learn about them. This morning the ammonia was .0-.05

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Those numbers are good. If you find your ammonia climbing, I would start water changes at 0.5 to 1 ppm, in an effort to keep ammonia below 1 ppm.

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Greath thanks so i just hook a power head up to it in a bucket of water run a hose to the tank, does the powerhead plug into this devise.

That's pretty much about it. I modified a maxijet with this arrangement which makes for an easy-on/easy-off connection and, because the tubing size is constrained to 1/4" limits the flow perfectly for an ATO application.

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Your probably already know this, but be sure that you top off with fresh (not salt) water. Topping off with salt water only drives your salinity up.

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Does it hurt to have the sand on the live rock. I blow some off with Turkey baster

No. Except for the aesthetics, it shouldn't. Now, if you had loads of it on the live rock and it was there for a while, it could kill off any coralline algae growth that was beneath it due to lack of light, but that's about it. Using a turkey baster to blow it off is fine.

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This morning the tank was clear love seeing the live rock but had to move the rock a little bit which caused a storm ammonia was 0 and nitrite was 0-0.05.

 

Can i us the GE RO unit at homedepot i didnt see any thing on the box about deoxinization does that matter?

 

Thanks

 

 

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RO, or reverse osmosis, is only one part of the water treatment program that a lot of us use here. Under pressure, the RO membrane (which is like a mechanical nano-filter) can remove 90-99% (depending upon the membrane and the pressure) of certain dissolved solids. The water that comes out often still has some TDS (total dissolved solids) in it. Much of the residual TDS come in the form of small ions, though, that pass through the RO membrane. That's why we run the water through a deionization (DI) stage. The DI resin attracts and binds these ions so that your water is purer (0 ppm TDS).

 

Rather than waste your time with the GE unit, head over to our sponsor (Air, Water, Ice) and check out their Typhoon series of RO/DI systems for reefkeepers. (The Typhoon III is a popular model.) WAMAS members get an additional 10% discount. So if you decide on a Typhoon III, then 1) Join WAMAS, 2) Get the discount code, 3) Order your Typhoon III and get 10% back (which nearly covers the cost of a 1-year WAMAS membership, and 4) enjoy the benefits of both.

 

By the way, AWI has great customer service. If you have questions give them a call or drop them an email.

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You're going to need good flow in the tank. Do you have a power head in there? Something like a Koralia nano or Koralia 1? You could also put a sand sifter in there. Something like a small star. Be careful when acclimating stars, though. They are extremely sensitive to salinity changes and it must be taken reeeeeeaaaaaal slow.

 

Do you have a livestock list that you're considering? You're really not that far from one of our better local fish stores (LFS) around here. Have you ever been to Fins & Feathers over in Ashburn? They're in the shopping center with the Safeway just off of Claiborne Parkway next to where it crosses the Greenway. If not, you should make time to swing by there (today) if you can. Sean can show you what he's got in stock, which normally includes a variety of fish, corals, equipment, etc. He'll give you good advice for free, too. :biggrin:

 

Blue Ribbon Koi (aka BRK) is a little further out and is down near Manassas off Route 234, east of 66 (down toward Rt 15). It's another good place that carries a lot of stock and supplies. Both are must-visits in my opinion.

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Tank has only been running for 4 days how long should I wait before adding crew. I have been to fins and feathers twice. That is where I got my live rock and sand and water. Not sure what stock I want with it being a small tank.

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If these are the standard outlets from the built-in sump, then, yes, I would recommend at least one more because you normally don't get that much flow from these.

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The power heads are in the back and have two out lets at the top. Do need more?

 

How many powerheads (and type) are there? What are these outlets you speak of?

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