RJT March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 Hello everyone, I am setting up a new 110g tank and need help on selecting a good ATO system. Any suggestions? My sump isn't drilled and I prefer something simple. Thank you for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roni March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 i've always used the litermeter 3s with great success. a little pricey but you don't have to worry about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypertech March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 Do you have a controller? I use a couple float switches connected to my Apex along with a timer command to run my ATO. It allows me double redundancies and I get an email alarm if the first float fails and the water gets high enough to the second float. Incidentally, i also get the email when the main return shuts off as the back siphon raises the water level just enough to trip the second float. So, should the power go out or that pump ever fail, I also get a notification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 I prefer gravity-fed top-off using a float switch like this: http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=20412 Don't have to worry about pump failures, power outages, sensors, etc. Just can't allow anything in the sump that would cause the float valve to open up, i.e. snails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 25, 2011 Author Share March 25, 2011 i've always used the litermeter 3s with great success. a little pricey but you don't have to worry about them. Thank you. I will look into this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 25, 2011 Author Share March 25, 2011 Do you have a controller? I use a couple float switches connected to my Apex along with a timer command to run my ATO. It allows me double redundancies and I get an email alarm if the first float fails and the water gets high enough to the second float. Incidentally, i also get the email when the main return shuts off as the back siphon raises the water level just enough to trip the second float. So, should the power go out or that pump ever fail, I also get a notification. I don't have a controller. Trying not to go that route, but that email function sounds really impressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 25, 2011 Author Share March 25, 2011 I prefer gravity-fed top-off using a float switch like this: http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=20412 Don't have to worry about pump failures, power outages, sensors, etc. Just can't allow anything in the sump that would cause the float valve to open up, i.e. snails. Great price. How long have you had yours? What are you using as the water source? A bucket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 I am with Roni on the litermeter 3. An excellent piece of equipment that performs flawlessly. Worth the cost if you take the long view that it will always have a home on one of my tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 Great price. How long have you had yours? What are you using as the water source? A bucket? I've had the float valve for 1.5 years now...I proactively clean it ~6 months to ensure proper function...I hate surprises I uploaded some pics that can be found here with material list: DIY Gravity-fed ATO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 I'm personally not a big fan of float valves for in-sump use. I'll use them in my RO/DI application but not here. If you keep it clean and make sure that any metal components don't corrode, you'll probably be fine. His idea of using a separate, limited volume reservoir works well as a fail safe limiting the maximum amount of water that can get into the system should the valve fail for some reason. (Here's a design that uses a float valve along with a float switch as backup.) While John's system doesn't do this, I would caution you to resist the urge to connect a pressurized RO/DI system directly to an in-sump float valve because it's a recipe for disaster. (When it fails, you'll have both a salinity crash and water on the floor.) Some people have done this and regret having done so. It's good to learn from the mistakes of others. You can get a DIY top off kit from autotopoff.com. There are other commercial designs available, too, that you can find. Tunze's Osmolator gets a lot of good reviews, but is pricey. One nice, new product is the Avast ATO kit. The switch model is simple to use and it's magnet design is really handy. I have one on my wife's nano. I use a peristaltic pump on my larger display. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 (edited) My system neither have metal components nor is pressurized...I take the containter out on a free day, fill it up with RODI and put it back...It is not plumbed to handle any pressure. (I agree to never attempt adding pressure to it, it wasn't designed for it) Edited March 25, 2011 by John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 My system neither have metal components nor is pressurized...I take the containter out on a free day, fill it up with RODI and put it back...It is not plumbed to handle any pressure. (I agree to never attempt adding pressure to it, it was designed for it) Understood. I wasn't criticizing your approach. Not all float valves are metal-free. That can be an issue for some. In any case, some can get old and snap causing trouble (though if you're careful and inspect things on a regular basis - as we all should - the risk is reduced). Your approach of limiting the available RO/DI is a decent fail-safe should the valve fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 25, 2011 Author Share March 25, 2011 i've always used the litermeter 3s with great success. a little pricey but you don't have to worry about them. Does it auto top off and dose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldReefer March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 Don't forget Avast. Thier top-off solution is reliable and cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 26, 2011 Share March 26, 2011 Does it auto top off and dose? Yes, it can do that. You need additional modules to do it, but it can. You can also set it up to do automatic water changes (how I have mine set up)... it is kind of fun to say that I do 150 water changes a day (at 5.7 ml a shot ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbartco March 26, 2011 Share March 26, 2011 I have the non pressurized float valve approach on my fowlr. After 3 years or so, something finally clogged it. I have never cleaned it. But honestly, it has been as reliable as any float switch based ATO (what I use on my other couple of tanks). And at max with failure, I dump 8 gallons of ro into a 140ish gallon system. I would also recommend against any pressurized rodi float in the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 26, 2011 Author Share March 26, 2011 I have the non pressurized float valve approach on my fowlr. After 3 years or so, something finally clogged it. I have never cleaned it. But honestly, it has been as reliable as any float switch based ATO (what I use on my other couple of tanks). And at max with failure, I dump 8 gallons of ro into a 140ish gallon system. I would also recommend against any pressurized rodi float in the sump. Good point, the max problem is a few gallons of ro water in tank!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armydoc March 28, 2011 Share March 28, 2011 +1 on Avast. Easy to setup. Can work with or without a controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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