Flood

[zygote2k]

I used a larger pump to mix water in my Brute and it spilled about 2 gallons on the floor. It leaked through the floor into my neighbors ceiling. Big saggy spot.

 

I'm going to prevent the next whoops so I need to buy some float switches. MarineDepot sells them for $65. Does anyone Know where I can get cheaper ones? I'm going to need at least 10.

[Origami]

Just the float switch? Or the full-up system with the relay, transformer, outlet, etc.? If you just need the float switch, you can get them on EBay for pretty cheap - like $5 each. (Just search on float switch")

[jason the filter freak]

what are you going to do with 10 float switches... also i thought you were on the ground floor

'

?

[L8 2 RISE]

www.airwaterice.com If you have an ASOV for automatic top off you only need the floats, otherwise, you'll need the whole thing, which is probably what marine depot has. If you have 10 top off containers, you should probably think about combining them first.

[Grav]

10 float switches means 10 more things that could go wrong than if you just have one.

[Sikryd]

10 float switches means 10 more things that could go wrong than if you just have one.

 

 

 

+1

 

I try and keep it simple - mechanical float right in my top-off under my tank (Straight from RODI).....If it fails - well - oh welllll - better than 10,000 contraptions and stuff. Never had a problem with mine.....

 

 

I have an ASOV from airwaterice if someone wants to trade for a float valve.....

Edited May 20, 2009 by Sikryd

[reefmontalvo]

+1 with the rest I have 1 float switch per tank.

 

K.I.S.S that is the name of the game.

[zygote2k]

Can I use the cheap kind that they sell on ebay that just have 2 wires to turn off a pump?

I don't have 10 top off containers, but I would like to implement the same system at home as well as the maintenance tanks.

If I use one on the DT, then I'll be fine since the other sumps in my system all have a reserve for high water.

[Origami]

Can I use the cheap kind that they sell on ebay that just have 2 wires to turn off a pump?

I don't have 10 top off containers, but I would like to implement the same system at home as well as the maintenance tanks.

If I use one on the DT, then I'll be fine since the other sumps in my system all have a reserve for high water.

 

Yes, the current draw of most pumps will probably be within the spec limits of the float switch's contacts. (The float switches on ebay have a max 0.5A capacity, 250 VAC max voltage, and 50W max load.) And, depending upon how you wire and configure things, the redundancy can decrease your probability of failure - though I must say, I was at a loss as to why you wanted 10 switches. Let's talk a little more about your requirements, current configuration, and what needs to be monitored.

 

Can you put a little drawing together that shows me what you're dealing with here? Make sure to document what pump is being controlled, too. Also, there are two basic approaches here to controlling the pump. The simplest, most straightforward is to put the float switch in line with your AC power to the pump. Splicing the float switch into the neutral of an extension cord, for example, is one approach. While this works, some are uncomfortable with this configuration which puts 120 volt AC power and home-brew wiring closer to where it can get wet.

 

A second approach is to use the float switches to control a relay. In this configuration, the float switch controls the application of a low voltage to the coil of a relay, and the relay controls the application of the AC voltage to the pump. This solution is a little more complicated wiring-wise, and involves more hardware (a wall-wart transformer, a relay, and possibly a diode) but it avoids the issue of the last paragraph.

 

If the pump's amperage requirements exceed the switch's ratings, the relay approach is called for.

 

I don't have a strong preference for either configuration to tell the truth as long as the requirements are within the specs of the hardware. While I use a relay in one application (the nightly timed-transfer of RO/DI from my big Brute container to my smaller top off reservoir), I'm contemplating using the simpler approach for my 29 gallon Biocube. I can always convert it to the more complicated topology if I don't like it, after all.

 

I'm happy to give you a little assistance in designing something that'll work for you. We can do it in this thread, by PM, or over lunch (we can draw it up on a napkin) since you're in Reston and I work in Herndon. Just let me know.

Edited May 20, 2009 by Origami2547

[zygote2k]

Thanks for all the input, Tom. Sean at F&F sent me a link to the BRS DIY kit for $35. I think these will fit the bill.

I want to place a float for high water on all of the DT's to cut power to the return pumps. As far as the mixing containers go, I just need to use a smaller pump. I do all R/O operations in the bathtub and I can certainly do mixing in there as well.

I like to keep things caveman simple.

[Origami]

I like to keep things caveman simple.

 

Simple is good as long as it's safe. Good luck and have fun!