Sean's 80 Custom SPS Cube

[SeanCallan]

I've decided to go ahead and begin detailing my current build!

 

Display Dimensions : 30 x 34 x 20

Sump Dimensions : 30 x 34 x 16

Stand : Steel (black)

Builder : NAGA

 

This tank is going to be exclusively SPS and I wanted a really clean look and to minimize the amount of equipment visible. Theres a 4'' false wall that will enable me to put the tank flush to the wall while hiding all the plumbing.

 

Lighting : 1 Giesemann Nova II 250W - I can add another one if I need more spread as the tank matures

 

The tank will return approximately 400GPH from the sump. It will feature 2 separate closed loops.

 

Closed Loop 1 (rear wall):

ReeFlo Dart (3600GPH) @ 0' feet

4 3/4'' returns

Electronic ball valve

 

Closed Look 2 (front bottom):

Ehiem 1262 (900GPH)

2 3/4'' returns

SCWD

 

The second loop will run whenever the lights are on, this way I can ensure that the fish have adequate places to retreat to at night without too much current.

 

KNOP-C Calcium Reactor

Tunze 9010 Skimmer

Typhoon III RO/DI

 

I'll also be using 2 part in my top off.

 

Top:

Side:

Front:

 

More to come as I get the tank delivered and plumbed!

 

(The holes are approximations, the drilling will take place on delivery and is subject to change)

Edited October 30, 2008 by SeanCallan

[yauger]

looking good so far bro! I'm sure NAGA will do a heck of a job for you... can't wait to see it.

[SeanCallan]

I picked up my Giesemann Nova II from NAGA last night when I met up with him real quick. Tank delivery and installation is saturday. I have to say I'm glad I went with NAGA's recommendations on the light, this sucker is sweeet.

 

Let there be light!

Edited November 14, 2008 by SeanCallan

[gastone]

Sean, nice light. Have you decide which bulb you are going with?

 

How is the spread on that thing? 30x30 is a lot of square footage to cover.

 

G.

[Brian Ward]

Sean, nice light. Have you decide which bulb you are going with?

 

How is the spread on that thing? 30x30 is a lot of square footage to cover.

 

G.

 

Here's an article that analyzes the spread and efficiancy of that reflector. The grid in Figure 23 appears to be a square 36" on each side. Mounting the reflector 9" above the water line provides probably the most even light while still getting a spot of intensity in the middle. Note that the numbers provided are not PAR but rather a number for relative comparison of the various reflectors. It appears that the focused lighting area will be in a rectangle 18" long by 16" wide.

 

You can compare this to Figure 4 in the second article. That one is the Luminarc III. There is a solid 30" square.

 

 

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2004/feature.htm

 

 

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/feature.htm

 

 

 

Oh, and here's a link to the list of all the analysis:

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting

[gastone]

Thanks Brian for the link.

 

G.

Edited November 14, 2008 by gastone

[SeanCallan]

Sean, nice light. Have you decide which bulb you are going with?

 

How is the spread on that thing? 30x30 is a lot of square footage to cover.

 

G.

 

I can get back to you with picture of the spread after this weekend, I quickly hung it to get an idea of how the light will affect my living room. It's pretty darn bright.

 

As for the bulb I'm using the bulb that comes with it which is a 13k Megachrome. I may go to a Phoenix down the road.

 

 

Here's an article that analyzes the spread and efficiancy of that reflector. The grid in Figure 23 appears to be a square 36" on each side. Mounting the reflector 9" above the water line provides probably the most even light while still getting a spot of intensity in the middle. Note that the numbers provided are not PAR but rather a number for relative comparison of the various reflectors. It appears that the focused lighting area will be in a rectangle 18" long by 16" wide.

 

You can compare this to Figure 4 in the second article. That one is the Luminarc III. There is a solid 30" square.

 

 

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2004/feature.htm

 

 

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/feature.htm

Oh, and here's a link to the list of all the analysis:

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting

 

Fantastic links!

[jamesbuf]

Yeah, if you're only going to have only that one fixture over your cube, you're going to have to aquascape and place corals accordingly. Can't believe the spread on that thing is so much less than the others. Very nice looking unit though, just stinks the spread is so much less than the other fixtures. Guess we'll see once its hooked up. You can always raise it an inch or two to get a wider spread, although that will cut down on PAR getting into the tank.

[SeanCallan]

Yeah, if you're only going to have only that one fixture over your cube, you're going to have to aquascape and place corals accordingly. Can't believe the spread on that thing is so much less than the others. Very nice looking unit though, just stinks the spread is so much less than the other fixtures. Guess we'll see once its hooked up. You can always raise it an inch or two to get a wider spread, although that will cut down on PAR getting into the tank.

 

Yeah, the people I've talked to have told me they think the light will be adequate but if it isn't I can get a second unit.

[gastone]

Sean,

 

this is what you need: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...hreadid=1510621

 

I would sell my first born for one of these. Heck, I would probably pay someone to take my first born and then pay double for one of these.

 

Garrett.

[Brian Ward]

Sean,

 

this is what you need: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...hreadid=1510621

 

I would sell my first born for one of these. Heck, I would probably pay someone to take my first born and then pay double for one of these.

 

Garrett.

 

wow that's nice.

[SeanCallan]

Performed a water test last night and found a small leak that I hope will be resolved quickly.

 

Another issue I'm having is mounting my pendant. Turns out my ceilings are poured cement so I can't drill into them to hang the light. So my plan right now is to try and locate 2 of these plant hangers and try to mount them to the studs in the wall.

 

 

Don't mind the acrylic shavings, we waited to do the last 3 bulkheads till the tank was in place.

 

 

 

As much as I wanted to get this tank up and running it looks like its going to wait even longer. I need to get the plant hangers, have the repairs done, and order loc lines (Blue Koi was out).

 

This is at least 1 step forward and hopefully these will be the last delays I'll be forced to put up with.

[gastone]

Sean, for a clean look you can get masonry anchors from the hardware store. You will need a masonry bit (you can get a cheap one as you are probably only going to drill 2 holes).

 

G.

[SeanCallan]

Sean, for a clean look you can get masonry anchors from the hardware store. You will need a masonry bit (you can get a cheap one as you are probably only going to drill 2 holes).

 

G.

 

My fear is that I don't know how thick the ceiling is and I don't need to drill into the next apartment :|

[Vader]

WOW !!!! How totally cool, Can't wait to see that bad boy run. I have two things to comment on,

 

I don't see any valves on the piping for what looks like a Mag 5 or 7 in the sump. What if you had to change the pump or replace that tee look'n thingy up under the display tank. How will you controll the water?

 

Which brings me to my second question, what happens if one of those pumps stop running, How will you keep the water in your display tank from draining into your sump?

 

Very clean install.

[SeanCallan]

WOW !!!! How totally cool, Can't wait to see that bad boy run. I have two things to comment on,

 

I don't see any valves on the piping for what looks like a Mag 5 or 7 in the sump. What if you had to change the pump or replace that tee look'n thingy up under the display tank. How will you controll the water?

 

Which brings me to my second question, what happens if one of those pumps stop running, How will you keep the water in your display tank from draining into your sump?

 

Very clean install.

 

The big pump is a ReeFlo Sequence Dart, the other pumps (Ca Reactor, Return, and CL) are all Ehiems.

 

You are correct, there are ball valves on the ReeFlo but none of the CL or return do. Since flex tubing was used on those pumps to make it easier to hook them up and make it easier to work around in the tank I'm going to use Loc Line ball valves.

 

All the return bulkheads (7) will get one of these so I can control the flow and if necessary completely shut it off.

 

 

I do need to put a ball valve in the front CL intake, but good catch

[gastone]

Sean, you can get a wall anchor that can the weight of that pendant no problem that is probably 1 1/2" long. No need to worry about drilling through the floor at that point, 'cause if the slab is under 1.5" anyway you'd be a dead man by now.

 

And it's easy enough to cover up when you leave.

 

...or go with the brackets.

 

What's the deal with the leak?

 

G.

[SeanCallan]

Sean, you can get a wall anchor that can the weight of that pendant no problem that is probably 1 1/2" long. No need to worry about drilling through the floor at that point, 'cause if the slab is under 1.5" anyway you'd be a dead man by now.

 

And it's easy enough to cover up when you leave.

 

...or go with the brackets.

 

What's the deal with the leak?

 

G.

 

 

Hey Gastone, I'm going to shoot you a PM to get more information on the anchors you're talking about so I can look into them.

 

Theres a tiny leak in the lower front corner, it's really small and I'm not too concerned. Everything else was fine. I just want to get it patched, finish the full water test and mark that off on my list.

 

I'm going to place my order for Loc Line today and hopefully have them by weeks end. I'll figure out how to mount the light and I should be good to go!

[Larry Grenier]

Maybe I'm missing something but it looks like you're placing an acrylic tank on a stand designed for a glass tank.

 

Glass tank = support around the edges

 

Acrylic = support across the entire bottom.

[SeanCallan]

Maybe I'm missing something but it looks like you're placing an acrylic tank on a stand designed for a glass tank.

 

Glass tank = support around the edges

 

Acrylic = support across the entire bottom.

 

I'm not going to say you're wrong, because I'm not sure if there is a right or a wrong. But I've seen a number of acrylic tanks with this kind of support.

 

Stratos21ss's 120SSO Tank (Another NAGA tank)

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?show...431&hl=NAGA

[Larry Grenier]

I'm not going to say you're wrong, because I'm not sure if there is a right or a wrong. But I've seen a number of acrylic tanks with this kind of support.

 

I'm not willing to say I'm right either

Maybe Naga's tanks have stronger bottoms. I know that some manufacturers of acrylic tanks warn against using stands without full bottom support and will void the warranty if you do. I once went to buy a used acrylic 125 that was ruined by placing it on a metal frame stand for years. Not trying to be a grim reaper it's just my experience and what I've read. Naga can say for sure; he built mine.

Edited November 17, 2008 by Larry Grenier

[NAGA]

Larry,

 

that steel stand has a crossmember underneath it as well. The tank is also only 20" tall which also plays a role in what is used.

[SeanCallan]

Well, NAGA cleared that up

 

If it were necessary or a big concern, I think it would be easy to toss a piece of that cutting board material commonly used in BB tanks on there and cover it in form.

Edited November 17, 2008 by SeanCallan

[JMsAquarium]

Very nice looking tank. Can't wait to see the progress.

[Larry Grenier]

Larry,

 

that steel stand has a crossmember underneath it as well. The tank is also only 20" tall which also plays a role in what is used.

 

Good to hear Jeff