Humidity in fish rooms

[DJBoy98]

I'm setting up my 120 inwall with the fishroom being the utility room area that houses the Furnance, etc. I'm concerned about moisture from the tank although the basement is always cool in the summer and cold in the winter. What do you think is the best option to control humidity so that it doesn't rust the things inside that utility room:

 

1) Get a bathroom exhaust fan and hook it up to the existing bathroom exhaust outside event. Have it control by a humidistat(?).

 

2) Put a box fan in front of the vent in the drywall that allows air to flow so that the furnance has enough air to fire.

 

3) Tap into an AC vent and have AC blow inside the room and shut it off during winter.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Jon Lazar]

In addition to causing rust, another hazard of the high humidity in your fish room is the possibility of mold growing there. If you use fans on your tank as part of your temperature control strategy, this will become less effective with higher humidity. You'd be surprised how much humidity a 120g tank can add to even a large space like a basement if it lacks robust ventilation.

 

I'm sceptical that the common bathroom exhaust vent will move enough air by itself to manage the humidity, but I don't know what the CFM rating of a bathroom fan is. They look pretty small though. An AC duct would probably work well when it's running, and will help control temperature too, but could be a problem in the spring and fall when temperatures are mild if you don't use the AC or furnace much. I don't know whether the box fan idea would be effective.

 

I would consider using a combination of the bathroom fan and AC vent ideas, both of which should be relatively inexpensive, and the AC duct idea would help cool the tank in summer. Other options include a stand-alone dehumidifier or a window mounted AC unit if you have access to an outside wall or window.

 

Jon

[mutley29]

Vent it outside if possible, a dedicated line would be best if you can do it, but piggy backing on an existing line will work also.

 

 

 

The HVAC unit will cool the room, make sure ur cold air returns are wrapped or you will get moisture build up on them.

 

 

 

Keep air in the room circulating well, helps prevent moisture build up on surfaces.

 

 

 

I have a 240 gal tank in fish room, with little to no humidity

 

 

 

HTH

[MLazar]

Do a Wamas search on "dehumidifer". I think Treesprite started a thread a while back and there was some great feedback on it.

[L8 2 RISE]

A dehumidifier as well as a bathroom exhaust fan would be the best option if you ask me. A good dehumidifier can pull A LOT of water out of the air and you will find yourself constantly emptying the bucket. We use one in the basement as it gets very damp down there and have to empty the bucket twice a day. When we come back from a vacation or the likes, the basement reaks of "muggyness".

[NRehman]

Summer. Put a window A/C if possible. This will de-humidify the room and keep it cool -> no chiller required.

 

Winter: De-humidifier. This will de-humidify the room and heat it. In summer, the heat from the de-humidifier will heat your room and require you to cool the tank/room.

 

If you have a drain in the basement, connect a hose from the de-humidifer to the drain -> no more emptying the buckets.

[DaveS]

I have the same set up as you and no access to the outside to vent the air. Here's what I've done so far:

 

1) Replaced the vent hole grille with a room-room exhaust fan: mcmaster.com item# 1895K11. This has allowed me to vent air out of the closet. You can install a door vent too if you have a door to the room that needs to remain closed.

 

2) In the summer, open up an AC vent into the fish/HVAC room.

 

I used to run a fan across the water which definitely helped cool the tank but I also noticed a significant increase in humidity in the entire basement level. My next step is to run a duct from the sump to my HVAC return. It won't be close enough to pull in salt spray but will be close enough to pull in moisture and evaporate water to help cooling. I might use the fan across the top of the tank again and just have the duct nearby to suck in that air. The idea is to have my AC pull in the moist air from that room and condense it along with the general humid summer air. In the winter time, the moisture will help humidify the dry winter air for the whole house.

[DJBoy98]

I have the same set up as you and no access to the outside to vent the air. Here's what I've done so far:

 

1) Replaced the vent hole grille with a room-room exhaust fan: mcmaster.com item# 1895K11. This has allowed me to vent air out of the closet. You can install a door vent too if you have a door to the room that needs to remain closed.

 

2) In the summer, open up an AC vent into the fish/HVAC room.

 

I used to run a fan across the water which definitely helped cool the tank but I also noticed a significant increase in humidity in the entire basement level. My next step is to run a duct from the sump to my HVAC return. It won't be close enough to pull in salt spray but will be close enough to pull in moisture and evaporate water to help cooling. I might use the fan across the top of the tank again and just have the duct nearby to suck in that air. The idea is to have my AC pull in the moist air from that room and condense it along with the general humid summer air. In the winter time, the moisture will help humidify the dry winter air for the whole house.

 

Some good ideas there.

 

There's no windows in this room because of it's location when I framed out the basement so the window AC is out of the question. I do have AC vents and I can hook up a in take duct to the main furnance which allows the central air system to pull air from this room also.

 

As for heat issue, I don't think this basement will ever have an heat issue. It' already naturally cool in the summer. I live in South Riding, Va and even in some of the current 90+ temperature with high humidity, it's still so cool down there. I have shut off the AC vents in the basement and yet it's still cool. I would say in the high 60's. In the winter, it's cold and dry. I'm also running 6 54w T5's which will help keep the heat down.

 

I think with the combo bathroom vent (which is rated at 100 CFM) to the outside plus the box fan to circulate the air and pull it out of that room via the vent that already exists for air ciculation to the furnance room (so that the furnance has access to air to ignite) I should be good to go. I can also add the AC vent and a duct if need be.

[dshnarw]

or...you could buy some light fixtures and plant growth bulbs, live with the humidity, and grow rare and expensive orchids.

[davidm]

consider making changes at the source of the humidity - cover the tank with glass or plexiglass to greatly reduce evaporation. When I did this I went from 25 gals/wk to 5 gals/wk in evaporation (180 gal open tank). Of course the evaporation was also cooling, so I needed to add a chiller to do this, but you may not need to (?). Personally I think this makes more sense, reducing the evaporation to begin with rather than letting the air humidity go up and then trying to vent it out - but it all depends of the degree and cost effectiveness of cooling a covered tank. just my opinion - good luck - David

[scott711]

I have/had the same issues in my 120 gallon in wall tank/room. the door to the room is located in the utility area where the furnace/water heater are. You have to be careful with venting air out if it is near either of these. Since you are venting air out, new air has to come in and if there isn't enough new air you can pull the gas from your utilities(if your house uses natural gas) and have carbon monoxide issues. I left the doorway open and painted all the walls with a high gloss paint to keep the humidity/mold from causing too much issues

[davelin315]

I have/had the same issues in my 120 gallon in wall tank/room. the door to the room is located in the utility area where the furnace/water heater are. You have to be careful with venting air out if it is near either of these. Since you are venting air out, new air has to come in and if there isn't enough new air you can pull the gas from your utilities(if your house uses natural gas) and have carbon monoxide issues. I left the doorway open and painted all the walls with a high gloss paint to keep the humidity/mold from causing too much issues

I was going to say the same thing about the dangers. Are you sure you want your tank in the same room as your utilities? When I ran my design by an HVAC guy he cautioned me that any little gap could result in the tank room pulling air from the utility area and interfering with the gas appliances abilities to vent themselves, possibly pulling CO into the livable areas.

[DJBoy98]

I was going to say the same thing about the dangers. Are you sure you want your tank in the same room as your utilities? When I ran my design by an HVAC guy he cautioned me that any little gap could result in the tank room pulling air from the utility area and interfering with the gas appliances abilities to vent themselves, possibly pulling CO into the livable areas.

 

I really have no choice. I framed the basement based on the idea of having an inwall and hiding all the equipment in that space. There is a large grill already for the air intake for that room. I could put a box fan or something on it to pull in more fresh air in to the room. This should help with keeping the room cool and reducing evaporation. I could also swap out the door I have with the kind that look like shutters so more can can vent into the room.

 

I guess putting an AC intake vent in that room is a bad idea now but I could still put in an AC vent to keep it cool.

[davelin315]

I wouldn't put an AC vent in there, just vent the room outside. When you vent it outside, as long as you have enough air available, it will pull cold air into the room from the rest of the house versus if it's sealed up it will pull from the room that it's in. A dehumidifier, by the way, will significantly heat up the room (I know, I have one in my tank room) but you probably should have one in the room anyway given the utilities located there (do you have a sump pump in the room?).

[DJBoy98]

I wouldn't put an AC vent in there, just vent the room outside. When you vent it outside, as long as you have enough air available, it will pull cold air into the room from the rest of the house versus if it's sealed up it will pull from the room that it's in. A dehumidifier, by the way, will significantly heat up the room (I know, I have one in my tank room) but you probably should have one in the room anyway given the utilities located there (do you have a sump pump in the room?).

 

I have a sump pump in that room. I don't think the room generates any heat. Even in the winter, it's ok with the furnance being in there. IT's just cold down there.

 

I'm trying to avoid a dehumidifier. I'll add another grill in the room and put the box fan in there to pull out air. Hopefully that will work.

[ReeferMan]

Ok i have a question that might help as well. I have my setup in wall in the same small room as my HVAC and hot water heater. I cut out the drywall that was seperating the utility room and under the stairs so that i would have a place for plumbing my sump and refug under the stairs. My intake for my Hvac was under the stairs and had a tube that extended it to a grill that lead to room in my basement. I disconnected the tube so the intake is under my stairs where the sump and refug sit. I have a opening under the stairs, empty vent under the stairs and the utility door has a vented door. I have seen alittle bit of surface rust on the HVac system but mainly my fauly since i spill water on it sometimes. Anyone see health issue or any issues with this?

[scott711]

Ok i have a question that might help as well. I have my setup in wall in the same small room as my HVAC and hot water heater. I cut out the drywall that was seperating the utility room and under the stairs so that i would have a place for plumbing my sump and refug under the stairs. My intake for my Hvac was under the stairs and had a tube that extended it to a grill that lead to room in my basement. I disconnected the tube so the intake is under my stairs where the sump and refug sit. I have a opening under the stairs, empty vent under the stairs and the utility door has a vented door. I have seen alittle bit of surface rust on the HVac system but mainly my fauly since i spill water on it sometimes. Anyone see health issue or any issues with this?

 

The biggest issue would be making sure there is ample air exchange. if you are pulling air out of that room by additional fans, etc. you want to make sure that enough air is coming back. If you have natural gas and there isn't enough ventilation, you will be pulling the gas into the rest of the house. That is why I have several carbon monoxide testers in the house.

[ReeferMan]

I have carbon monoxide testers on each level of the house including one outside of the utility room and never had them go off so can i safely assume i am good? Just want to make sure my family is safe

[scott711]

I have carbon monoxide testers on each level of the house including one outside of the utility room and never had them go off so can i safely assume i am good? Just want to make sure my family is safe

 

I would say so. I would make sure there isn't any rust going through the ducts too. But I am no expert.

[ReeferMan]

Thats what i am worried about

[DJBoy98]

Thats what i am worried about

 

I saw a picture of a guy's exhaust vent (reefcentral) in his fishroom and boy was it rusted.

With that in mind, I don't think I'l be running an AC duct in there nor tapping into the bathroom

exhaust vent

 

Maybe I can tap into the plumbing vent. It's PVC but only 1.5 diameter

 

I think air circulation may be the best bet. Plus I won't have more than 200g of total

tank volume in the room and it's about 10x10.