High Nitrate Level!

[Highland Reefer]

I started up my 110 gallon reef about 1 1/2 months ago after I had a crash about 1 yr ago. After my tank crashed about a year ago, I cleaned everything out and just let the rock cure naturally for about a year. Thats when I started everthing back up.

 

Everything was going well until I added some fish. The nitrate level is at about 80 now. I have made three 20% water changes over the last week and it still remains high. The ammonia, KH, PH, calcium, phosphate & temp. levels are fine. I also increased my protein skimmer to a more aggressive setting and added a catch bottle.

 

I was thinking about adding some nitrate asorbing materials and decided to go to the local fish store. I took a sample with me to make sure my test kits were working ok. The store tested the water and confirmed my results. Only the nitrate was high. He recommended a 50% water change and stated that what was going on in my tank was the new tank syndrome and was following the normal course until the bacteria built back up in my 100 lbs of rock in my tank. He said that the nitrate asorbing materials would not help much.

 

I have about 6 small fish, 8 coral, about 80 assorted snails, a starfish, one large worm and several feather worms in my tank now. I am afraid that if I do a 50% water change, that it will have negative results on everthing in my tank.

 

Any advise would be appreciated.

[Brian Ward]

I started up my 110 gallon reef about 1 1/2 months ago after I had a crash about 1 yr ago. After my tank crashed about a year ago, I cleaned everything out and just let the rock cure naturally for about a year. Thats when I started everthing back up.

 

Everything was going well until I added some fish. The nitrate level is at about 80 now. I have made three 20% water changes over the last week and it still remains high. The ammonia, KH, PH, calcium, phosphate & temp. levels are fine. I also increased my protein skimmer to a more aggressive setting and added a catch bottle.

 

I was thinking about adding some nitrate asorbing materials and decided to go to the local fish store. I took a sample with me to make sure my test kits were working ok. The store tested the water and confirmed my results. Only the nitrate was high. He recommended a 50% water change and stated that what was going on in my tank was the new tank syndrome and was following the normal course until the bacteria built back up in my 100 lbs of rock in my tank. He said that the nitrate asorbing materials would not help much.

 

I have about 6 small fish, 8 coral, about 80 assorted snails, a starfish, one large worm and several feather worms in my tank now. I am afraid that if I do a 50% water change, that it will have negative results on everthing in my tank.

 

Any advise would be appreciated.

 

 

 

50% water change will be much less negative than the nitrate currently in the tank. I'd expect the corals and starfish to be in bad shape. Change the water immediately! Even with a new tank the nitrate shouldn't be that high - if you have bioballs, ceramic media, canister filters, or anything along those lines you need to clean that media too. You should also expect an algea outbreak due to the high nitrates. I'd do a 50% water change today and test - your levels should be reduced right after. Another water change either tomorrow or the day after. Keep checking, keep changing water until you get it under control.

[Highland Reefer]

I forgot to add that I am using Ro water. I tested my ro water & my salt mix water and they have a 0 reading for nitrates.

 

The algae boom is already starting on my glass. I just cleaned it yesterday. I will take your advise and start a 50% water change today and follow up until it is back to normal. Many thanks, Brian.

[extreme_tooth_decay]

Agree you should do a 50% water change. I would probably do 50 today and another 25 tomorrow.

 

It would take a lot to get nitrates that high, especially in a 110. How much do you feed?

 

tim

[Highland Reefer]

I am feeding two cubes of myasis shrimp every day and one cube of the reef mix every other day. Both are the frozen cubes.

[Brian Ward]

 

Agree you should do a 50% water change. I would probably do 50 today and another 25 tomorrow.

 

It would take a lot to get nitrates that high, especially in a 110. How much do you feed?

 

tim

 

 

 

Have to agree - this will fix the symptom but you need to find the problem. "New Tank Syndrome" is likely BS - need to find the real source. Over feeding is likely. What kind of skimmer? I'm assuming you're skimming very wet now?

 

 

 

I am feeding two cubes of myasis shrimp every day and one cube of the reef mix every other day. Both are the frozen cubes.

 

 

 

2 cubes for 6 small fish sounds like too much. Are you thawing and rinsing before you add? Scooping out the extra after about 10 mins? What is the reef mix? Is this like formula one? 1 cube mysis daily should be more than enough - maybe alternate cube mysis, cube reef mix.

[Highland Reefer]

I just started skimming wet last night when I added a catch bottle setup to my AquaC EV-180 Protein Skimmer.

 

I have not been rinsing the myasis. I will start doing it now and cut back to one cube a day. I ran out of the reef mix cubes and am now using cyclopseze. I noticed that it does not take much of this to feed with this.

[zotzer]

Is there any media anywhere in your system: bioballs, ceramic rings, sponges, biowheel....even stashed in the sump for use in a QT tank, for example?

Tracy

[Big Country]

What test kits are you using to test the nitrates? When I was using a Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit on my tank the Nitrate test often showed a reading of 80-100, I took a water sample to Marine Scene in VA and it tested 15 on their professional kit. I switched to a Salifert Kit and now get a more accurate reading

[jamal]

do you have a refugium with macroalgae growing in it? if not i would add that quickly. i was at 25 ppm last year. after upgrading my skimmer and growing the macro in a controlled environment i am at 5ppm last i checked. the stuff really works. also do you have a deep sand bed anywhere in the system. this will also assist with denitrification. you can do a remote deep sand bed in a bucket if you didnt already do one in the tank so you dont disturb your live stock. also brian is right about the overfeeding and the high nitrates during the cycle. they would not be that high from the dieoff. i suspect that you added those fish prematurely and the bacteria has not had a chance to reestablish equilibrium in the tank yet. also how much live rock do you have?

[vaironman]

This minor detail might also contribute to the factor. Your tank is only 1.5 months young. Too early to have 6 fishes, eventhough they might be small fishes and probably should hold off on adding coral in for 6 months to make sure you have rebuild the bacteria and recycle all your live rock.

 

KLee

['Ric]

When lights go out tonight, add a 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon sugar (better yet, Vodka, if you have it) to provide hydorcarbons for the aneobic bacteria to use to break down the nitrates. Expect white cloudy water in the morning, but that will clear up in a day or so.

 

'Ric

Edited January 14, 2008 by 'Ric

[YBeNormal]

Be very carefull with the sugar advice. The bacteria bloom will result in lower oxygen levels within the tank. I might use this method to battle a chronic but low level nitrate problem but I'm not so sure I'd go that route in this case. If you dose sugar (or vodka), increase aeration by adding air stones, aiming powerheads and return to create more turbulance on the water surface, etc.

[flowerseller]

I believe your cycle is not complete. Not a large enough colony of bacteria quite yet.

You can change all the water you want ( won't hurt but won't dilute much for now) but it's still a wait game for now. Reduce feeding to flake if you have it and then enough to just keep them fed.

Try locating a product called "cycle" and keep it in the fridge after you open it.

[madmax7774]

I have a significantly larger fishload than you, and I don't feed anywhere near as much. Several large water changes over the course of a week or so coupled with a severe cutback in feeding, should help clear things up.

 

 

Edited January 14, 2008 by madmax7774

[lanman]

Dang... no wonder my fish are so fat. I'm going to cut back on food, too.

 

Must admit though - that half-pound Anthia is starting to look tasty.

 

bob

[Highland Reefer]

I found a product called: Hagen's Cycle Biological Aquarium Supplement at the link below -

 

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Cycle-Biologic...t/dp/B0002563FO

 

I asume this is what your were refering to. From what I gather, you are not recommending any large water change as it will not do much good? Just add the Cycle and play a waiting game. Cut back on feeding.

I believe your cycle is not complete. Not a large enough colony of bacteria quite yet.

You can change all the water you want ( won't hurt but won't dilute much for now) but it's still a wait game for now. Reduce feeding to flake if you have it and then enough to just keep them fed.

Try locating a product called "cycle" and keep it in the fridge after you open it.

 

 

What test kits are you using to test the nitrates? When I was using a Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit on my tank the Nitrate test often showed a reading of 80-100, I took a water sample to Marine Scene in VA and it tested 15 on their professional kit. I switched to a Salifert Kit and now get a more accurate reading

 

I am using the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit and it is eronic, the Fish Store I went to have it checked to make sure, was also using the AP test kit. The color variations are very difficult to read. I will take your advice Y get the Salfert Kit. I could be, my results are not that high also?

 

do you have a refugium with macroalgae growing in it? if not i would add that quickly. i was at 25 ppm last year. after upgrading my skimmer and growing the macro in a controlled environment i am at 5ppm last i checked. the stuff really works. also do you have a deep sand bed anywhere in the system. this will also assist with denitrification. you can do a remote deep sand bed in a bucket if you didnt already do one in the tank so you dont disturb your live stock. also brian is right about the overfeeding and the high nitrates during the cycle. they would not be that high from the dieoff. i suspect that you added those fish prematurely and the bacteria has not had a chance to reestablish equilibrium in the tank yet. also how much live rock do you have?

 

I have been reading about the refugiums with microalgae, but have not added one yet. I do not have a sand bed in my tank, I am using crushed coral. The refugium sounds like a good idea. I have been trying to figure out how to add it to my system. I have my tank on the main level and have dropped all the other stuff into a 20 gallon tank in the basement. I would like to put the refugium in the basement at a higher level than my sump.

[flowerseller]

I found a product called: Hagen's Cycle Biological Aquarium Supplement at the link below -

 

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Cycle-Biologic...t/dp/B0002563FO

 

I asume this is what your were refering to. From what I gather, you are not recommending any large water change as it will not do much good? Just add the Cycle and play a waiting game. Cut back on feeding.

 

That's it.

You can do W/C but in a cycle mode, you're going to be back up very rapidly.

I find it does not rise as rapidly after a full complete cycle and W/C have a better chance of sustaining dilution.

Fish can stand elevated levels much better than corals .

 

I can offer plenty of macros

[Highland Reefer]

Is there any media anywhere in your system: bioballs, ceramic rings, sponges, biowheel....even stashed in the sump for use in a QT tank, for example?

Tracy

 

I have no media in my system anywhere at this time.

 

That's it.

You can do W/C but in a cycle mode, you're going to be back up very rapidly.

I find it does not rise as rapidly after a full complete cycle and W/C have a better chance of sustaining dilution.

Fish can stand elevated levels much better than corals .

 

I can offer plenty of macros

 

Excuse my ignorance, but what would be considered a complete cycle to begin water changes and what are the macros you are refering to.

 

That's it.

You can do W/C but in a cycle mode, you're going to be back up very rapidly.

I find it does not rise as rapidly after a full complete cycle and W/C have a better chance of sustaining dilution.

Fish can stand elevated levels much better than corals .

 

I can offer plenty of macros

 

I have been testing my water daily. I find it hard to believe that my nitrate levels jumped that high over a couple of days. I think I am inclined to believe that AP test kit may be giving me a faulty reading as was refered to in one of the earlier posts.

[zotzer]

Was the crushed coral substrate also from your original system?

Tracy

[Highland Reefer]

Was the crushed coral substrate also from your original system?

Tracy

 

The crushed coral and 100 lbs of live rock are all from the original system which over heated and killed my fish and corals. I then cleaned all the dead out and let it cycle for about 1 year.

[zotzer]

So, the crushed coral has been in a running tank, with the rock, for a year?

 

Crushed coral is famous for increased nitrates over time. It didn't make much sense on a one month old tank, but makes MUCH more sense in that scenario.

 

It will be a process to gradually siphon it out and replace it with sand (or not...barebottom), but it has been done. Maybe someone more experienced than I can speak to that process.

 

Anyhoo, I think we've most likely unearthed the root of your nitrate problem.

 

Tracy

Edited January 15, 2008 by zotzer

[jamal]

The crushed coral and 100 lbs of live rock are all from the original system which over heated and killed my fish and corals. I then cleaned all the dead out and let it cycle for about 1 year.

 

crushed coral is a bad idea. it will trap detritus and organic matter which will break down and contribute to nitrates for a long time. take out the crushed coral asap. the macros that chip is referring to are what i suggested. macro algaes like chaetomorpha and gracilaria species are great for this task. they will grow and take up nitrates which will keep them down and you will need to remove them peridiocally to complete the export process. you dont need to add chemicals to assist the cycle it will take place naturally with patience. just cut down on feeding and dont add anything for a while to let the bacteria catch up. continue to monitor the trates over several weeks to make sure the bacteria are starting to colonize. a deep sand bed with finer sand will help with denitrification as well.

[zotzer]

take out the crushed coral asap.

 

And in this case, ASAP does mean as soon as *possible*, which should NOT be equated with "all at once", but over time. Again, other more experienced folks can speak to it, but I wouldn't go siphoning it all out all in one day if it were my own tank.

 

Tracy

[Highland Reefer]

crushed coral is a bad idea. it will trap detritus and organic matter which will break down and contribute to nitrates for a long time. take out the crushed coral asap. the macros that chip is referring to are what i suggested. macro algaes like chaetomorpha and gracilaria species are great for this task. they will grow and take up nitrates which will keep them down and you will need to remove them peridiocally to complete the export process. you dont need to add chemicals to assist the cycle it will take place naturally with patience. just cut down on feeding and dont add anything for a while to let the bacteria catch up. continue to monitor the trates over several weeks to make sure the bacteria are starting to colonize. a deep sand bed with finer sand will help with denitrification as well.

 

I can siphon out the crushed coral easy enough, but adding sand may be messy. Is there any easy way of adding sand to my tank? What type of Sand? How deep?

 

Do I add the macos to my tank directly?