jason the filter freak

Well ok sounds good, what kind of bulb can I use to grow the cheato they propagate in....? I just want to use a reqular drop light fixture with a cheap reflector....

May I have some of the free pulsing Xenia? Seriously though... How much delivered?

I never see anything in this fourm ever! So I thought maybe here would be a good place to ask this..... I've boght a number of "starter kits" at some expense, and I no fish in my tank to speak of except one tiny blue green chromis I can't see anything I've bought ever, wether it be pods, mini stars, worms, shrimp, anything! My water quality is good, and I have at least 100 lbs or LR in the tank, and flow is abundant but not turbulent.... What am I doing wrong?

I can see that working as long as it's not a case of the blind leading the blind

Do you have any pics of what this will look like? I have 55 gallons of water and about 100 lbs of live rock to remove from the system to make something like that work

I would love to come but i may or may not be out of town...

Nice signature, glad we could get that all worked out for you

Could it be partially drained then filled, I would highly appreciate it if you'd drill it I'm sure I could give you something for your trouble.... I would like to not have that huge bulky over flow boxes

I have to be missing something.... when is this gonna be?

I concur, the photos are GREAT!

Hmm Dave's been in this longer than I have.... And as far as I'm concerend he's the man.... My line of thinking was that if you put back preassure on your return pump it might cause it to have extra resistance, which could cause it to work harder...? Like I said dave has been in this longer than I have And to borrow someone else's signature in the club, it's just my opnion and it's worth what you paid for it

Good to see you planned ahead with pleanty of workign room underneath! Looks good!

Here's what I'm talking about the first is just your sump the second is what dave is talking about that "could" lead to burning out your return pump the last is what I'm talking about that should allow you to safely decresse the amount of water flowing back into your tank with no harm to your pump, you could also make the 90 degree bend have a piece of clean vinyl tubing on it or pvc pipe so it goes all the way back into your sump (to prevent splashing ) Here's what I'm talking about LET IT BE KNOWN I"M NOT AN ARTIST AND I DID THIS IN A SHORT TIME, this is purely for design idea not art lol

:( I had a 55 gallon tank crack on me soo I feel your pain running for towels and even a steam vac on ocasion. There is a very very simple way to prevent your tank from over flowing.... I found this out the hard way, and felt really dumb when I did When you start out block the drain from your tank leading to your sump, fill the tank all the way up to your desired level, then unblock it let your overflows drain your tank until they are no longer taking in water ... then OLNY ADD ENOUGH WATER to get the water level of your tank to where it is draining into your overflows again, then engage your sump pump, this way you'll never have enough water in your system to over flow your tank I don't want to disagree with dave, cuz that man is AWSOME! , however I would put a PVC T on your return line with a valve on the open end of the T with a 90 degree bend on it so it aims back down to your sump, this will relive some of your flow with out loosing pressure in your return line, if you put an inline valve and close it part way it will creat back preassure on your return pump which can lead to burning it out.... give me a min and I'll make a diagram

schweet glad I could help, so far I've just felt like a burden to WAMAS point for me

Well if your uv sterililizer is in line just plum it in between your pump and the line going back into your tank, with threaded Pvc so it can be removed for maintanace, and just T off with a pvc fitting your input to your sup and put a valve on one side of the T so you can later hook it up to your refugium, and then have it so your refugium just overflows back into the out put area of your sump

Ah ok, I'm looking for a way to make my own adjustable H.O.B or H.O.T. over flow boxes that don't require any drilling.

adjust your air flow control if it has one, clean out your water out put connection...?

I was thinking with 3 bulbs I could have them come on at one hour inteverals closer to what day light would be like Bulb number #1 on at 11:30 AM Bulb number #2 on at 12:30 PM Bulb number #3 on at 1:30 PM then Bulb number #1 off at 9:30 PM Bulb number #2 off at 10:30 PM Bulb number #3 off at 11:30 PM WhaT DOES anyONE think about the strenght of the lights? Is there any significant diffrence in heat out put from a 250 watt as opposed to a 175 and 150 watt bulb in terms of radiated heat? Do i really need to have the lights come on and off at diffrent times or should I just have them all come on at once?

I'm really not seeing how those are suposed to work

Do we think the pointed toward each other on the oppsite ends of the tank, or crossed at one end of the tank would work better?

I really don't want to bump the Irwin thread... I need to know about lighting I have a regular 55 gallon tank that I want to have some soft corals in it eventually I'm very worried about heat Right now I have a 150 Metal Halide buld, with two 24 watt actenics Would 3 175 watt MH fixtures with I suppose a 65 watt actenic be enough or would I want closer to two 300 watt bulbs, How much heat am I looking at from that much lighting as well? I plan to have them about 7-9 inches off the waters surface in an open back canopy