traveller7

May not have been questioned, but In my experience a tight lid, auto top, consistent small water changes, no to extremely little dosing, help alleviate the small space stability issue. Small spaces definitely complicate matters and required due diligence has been assumed by anyone attempting such a challenge.

btw: The third wheel ocellaris had to come out right before the B&W's laid eggs, the male was mercilous. The old ocellaris has recovered and is living solo atm.

Hehe, the ocellaris hatch around 1am, the nigripes hatch around 3 am...you wont catch me up scooping them out of the tank :>) If I get them to lay eggs on a tile, it opens up a world of options. fwiw: they really need rotifer sized meals for the first 7ish days post hatch. Fresh pod hatches may be okay for days 8-14ish. It would be one of those things that the smallest and the largest would need alternatives thoughout the process. fwiw2: the idea killer: the change in water would likely lead to 100% mortality.

Bit of an update: Both pairs laid the first clutch last weekend, both are hatching tonight or tomorrow lastest. Don't have or want any Rots but it nice to see both pairs back in the groove so quickly. Of course, they are ignoring the tiles in the tanks completely, but what the heck...getting closer ;>) Side note: The gasters in the TOTM tank had their clutch hatch 2 nights ago, wouldn't be nice if I can get them all synched someday to actually make it easier to raise them?

Smaller spaces and anemones present special challenges in the area of stability, water conditions, temps mostly. Many of my old anemone tanks(20H) were lit by 3x28wt PC fixtures. The key is to keep the bulbs fresh, the reflectors clean, and the tank covers clean. PCs, t5's, HO, VHO, and even proper NO tubes can be used, just make sure to have proper depth, proper feeding, and water stability. Lighting is not really a huge issue with BTAs, but they do prefer fairly intense lighting, even better if it is from a point source so they stay put. Part of the reason for using a single 70wt MH over the 3x28's on this set up was to keep the anemones in one place away from fliters and power heads: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=17537 BTAs are the most widely distributed hosting anemone for a reason, their ability to adapt to the greatest variations. Mine have done well over the years under single 28wt PCs to 400wt MH, just don't stretch the limits too far ;>)

LTAs via wholesale are typically M. doreensis, see above. Most H. crispas from wholesale are short tentacled, bleached, etc., and typically get the tag Sebae Anemone. After captivity conditioning, H. crispa and BTAs both frequently get the LTA tag on them, see above. I would not try newly arrived anemones in such a small container, variations in conditions are bad and a dead anemone in a small space can be catestrophic.

I would stay with the smaller clowns, ocellaris, percula, skunks. In a 12gal aquapod, 2x27w PCs, skip the actinic bulb for a mixed 10K/03. Other bulb could be 10K or 6.7K. Assumng you want your clowns to be hosted by the anemone: BTA: just be sure to pull clones as the divide. H. malu: If you can find a healthy one. Not likely. Skip the hosting carpets. Skip Magnifica Skip Crispa and Doreensis(unless you don't mind relocating it to a larger space)

Looks extremely similar to a bunch I bought from Champion Lighting and Supply. Remote power was a key for me and my small native american tanks; did not last very long, <6months for all 6.

Post a picture. Most semi divisions will finish eventually. There are a few documented situations with 2 pedal disks: 1 oral disk and 1 pedal disk:2 oral disks. They seem to survive just fine. The concern I have is with the "tentacle shedding", this should not occur. I have seen that happen under highly stressed conditions or predatory conditions. I would be a bit worried 1 or more of the divisions would become necrotic.

S. haddoni carpets frequently trigger a darkening, melanistic response, in clowns. I would not worry about the coloration changes. fwiw: S. haddoni has also been known to eat a clownfish, or three. IMHO, such an event is more likely to occur if the clown is sick.

IMHO: Small surface area, deep tank, anemones? Metal Halide, say 150wt DE or 175 SE.

Very nice :>)

Agreed, if it was my tank, that control panel would be front and center :D

Lots of drugs fall in the category, the Dr's have a pretty good list and their listings tend to include active ingredients for comparison: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article....04&aid=1338

Bare tank treatments with furan, maybe a few of the dyes (meth-blue), but the first and foremost suggestions: do not purchase a visibly sick fish and use a QT tank for all new additons.

Wish I had seen the post earlier in the cycle, but that was a tough one from the get go. First rule, if it fails visual inspection, plan on it getting much worse once you get it home. Quarantine will help prevent the introduction of bad stuff to your display tank, but treatment of the new arrivals is a much tougher event. Best not buying anything that has a spot, clamped fin, discoloration, cloudy eye, patching on the body, etc. The pictures provided are not great for ID, but they do not look fungal to me. More viral or bacterial. Tank raised or wild caught, sick is sick. Tank raised tend to have a few things going for them though: acclimated to available foods, better weight on them from shorter shipment/collection cycle, less stops in wholesale, etc. I would wait quite a few weeks (6), before adding new fish to that tank. Good luck.

Nice job :>) It's not the writing, but the pictures :>O

Definitely not a filter feeding crab, i.e. the "the anemone crab". It appears to have flat claw tips, typical of mithrax sculptus, but I don't think it is sculptus. I would remove it if I saw it on an animal showing any damage.

Have a picture of the crab?

Respectfully, S. tapetum and E. quadricolor are not in the same class of difficulty as S. gigantea, S. haddoni, S. mertensi. The large hosting carpets(including H. magnfica) are not as hardy before, during, or post operatively; certainly not easy. Ironically, maxi keepers owe Phil a debt, but that is a story for some tapetum thread, not a haddoni thread ;>)

That column shot makes me think S. haddoni even more, a good looking specimen too :>) It might be migrating to greater light, flow changes, etc. Keep and eye on it, they can move quicker then folks think

lol I have tried to type the IMG code but it won't let me cheat it, quote my prior post to see the IMG tags :>D

Looking very S. haddoni from the two pictures provided, but it would take pictures of the column(back side of the green part) to be more certain. Most haddoni prefer a deep sand bed with the base attached to a hard substrate. I am a bit surprised it is on top of the rock. Have you changed the bulbs lately, changed flow, etc.? Has it eaten any of your fish in the past? Either way, I don't believe you have a low risk candidate for "fragging." Pretty sure odds of success could be increased in a species/dedicated system, but that is just my opinion. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post some pictures :>)

Looks like I may be running around a bit if you are on this side of the river. If not, I will be crossing over early next week :>)

In my opinion, it was fading from day 1, it just takes quite some time for a large anemone to decline to a point of obvious note. H. magnifica is famous for such performances, been there and done that myself. Quite a disappointment actually. fwiw: Here is another thread on division, S. helianthus (Atlantic Carpet/Sun Anemone), please note the time frames vs a natural BTA division. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...95#post10935395 Some carpets obviously divide naturally, but I have found few successful/repeated examples outside S. tapetum and S. helianthus.