YBeNormal

Uh...um... Are you breaking some big news here? Family membership in the near future?

Done. Welcome to WAMAS!

Motti, You submitted your application with the BB name "Motti Horesh" and that account is now activated as a WAMAS Member. It was established on the forum on 9 Nov and the one you are now using motti (established yesterday). Let me know which one of the accounts you want to retain and have active as your member account and I will delete the other one.

Yes, I will bring name tags and yes, they do say 'Hello, my name is'

True or not, I would take my business elsewhere. There are too many good, legitimate companies around for me to waste my time and money in a store that takes pride in violating laws meant to protect the environment. The same LFS owner probably dumps used motor oil down the drain sewer and fails to pick up after his own dog.

Me!

Ah, I see how it goes... You've been waiting a long time but I'm supposed to jump right on it eh? Just kidding. You're in!

Chlorine is not going to remove the dead organics from the rock so you would still have an ammonia spike.

I've never tried that product. Is it something that needs to be purchased fresh or does it store well for long periods of time?

I agree but those methods of treatment also require that the person read up and understand what they are doing. Otherwise the cure can be worse than the disease.

Hypo salinity is 1.008 and even that may not entirely kill off the Ich. Regardless, the life cycle of Ich is about two weeks, more or less depending on temperature and other variables. I would keep the fish in QT for at least 4 weeks, preferably 6 weeks, after the last spots have disappeared. Make sure your refractometer is properly calibrated if you are going to attempt treatment with hpyo salinity. To high and the treatment may not be effective, too low and it can be damaging or fatal to the fish. Z, a freshwater dip will not kill spores that are in the tomont stage of development, and may be less than fully successful against spores that are in the trophant stage. It is only during the tomite stage that hpyo salinity and other treatments are truly effective and spores do not transition from stage to stage all at once. A one week treatment followed by introduction of the fish to the display tank is a sure way to transfer the problem to the display. FW dips are not necessarily a bad thing to do but keep in mind that this will stress the fish and may actually weaken it to the point that it cannot fight off the infection. Do some research on Google or look on RC for the Ich thread that is posted there. Educate yourself and then decide how you want to treat the fish.

The link James provided points to a very old list that is no longer maintained so it has been hidden. We do not maintain a listing of all vendors in the are. We do provide links to WAMAS sponsoring vendors though and we also maintain a list of sponsoring vendors that offer discounts to WAMAS members. For information regarding any vendors that are not WAMAS sponsors, I suggest pulling out the trusty old Yellow Book or performing a search using Google.com.

They may not have the exact part, but they will have pieces to make something that provides the same results. If nothing else, get a very short section of copper tubing, a few inches will do, and fittings to go on each end. Insert it between the water supply and the braided hose then use the saddle piercing valve that came with the unit (assuming that is what you originally ordered with the unit).

It could be that the water lines were flushed recently. Manassas does that once or twice per year and we always end up with a lot of sediment for day or two afterward.

Yes, you can purchase parts at Lowes and do something similar. It will most likely be made of brass and I believe the fittings are 3/8". Take a picture of the AWI part with you and I'm sure the plumbing guys can help you mix and match the parts. Home Depot? Plumbing parts? Hit or miss...

Oops! I came home from work and noticed your email so I reset your password again.

When did you come out of the closet Johnny?

Moved to the Vendor Experience forum.

I think I have caught up on the new accounts and renewals. Now I have a huge batch of membership cards to prepare so I can have them in teh mail n Monday. If anyone is still waiting on their membership to be activated or renewed, send a PM and let me know.

Not necessarily. You just have to wait until I have free time in the evenings to do the work on our end. I try to do it every day but my new job has kept me busy lately and my routine is a little messed up.

Your membership was expired and that was the reason you could not access the member forums. Your renewal has been processed now though. Welcome back!

Another reason that I limit the size of my ATO reservoir--float valves/switches and just about everything else will fail or stick eventually and it always, always, always when you are out of town or otherwise unable to respond immediately. Hopefully everything makes it through this OK. Let me know if I can do anything to help.

RO water is fine for drinking. The only potential drawback (or maybe benefit, depending on how you feel about chemicals) is that it does not contain fluoride. I have RO plumbed to a faucet on our kitchen sink and we drink it all the time. Yummy! DI water tastes terrible though and is not recommended for drinking.

Did you read the article I linked to above? It sounds like your refractometer may be one of the ones that is not specifically designed to measure SW. If that is true, it will calibrate correctly at 0.000 but will be off when reading higher salinity and you need to calibrate it using Pinpoint salinity solution or the RH Farley DIY calibration fluid rather than RO/DI. It would then be accurate only at the higher salinity readings and would not be recommended for use when setting up a hospital tank with low salinity levels (hyposalinity).

Craig, You may want to include some safety lines in there in case your temp probe fails (as they often do). I can't remember what the ACIII registers when a temp probe is unplugged but I think it is somewhere around 29 degrees. My old probe failed and registered around 129 degrees. So maybe add... If Temp < 35.0 Then HET OFF If Temp > 110 Then CHL OFF . . .or something similar.