ErikS

+1 Eliminates the jumping & maintains the gas exchange.

Somebody has to be first...... I'll not get into the colors debate but the last link on the page you linked to is an RC thread......search there for more info?

Might even depend on the part of the county - in my part of PW county the water comes from the Faifax treament plant (Occoquan). Also depends on the time of year - this time of year they often turn off the ammonia pumps = clorine & not cloramine. Depends on the carbon, some are better @ removing Clorine, some @ cloramine..........given carbon is cheap & membranes are not? But then I'm lucky - water starts off @ a low TDS, my filters last quite some time.

If you need some names........I haven't used them but they do have ratings.....just send me a pm in you need some more names.

Yeah, kind of like stand builds I do like the parts about location, seems pretty critical & can vary widly. I'd guess he's right to ask an engineer, no real way to know. I like #16 - seen many budget homes from the 50's & 60's.....far better built than the "higher end" boxes they've thrown up around here in the last decade..........fast growth lumber, lower skill set, cut every penny, etc. Of course that ain't as bad as older ones built with balloon framing I did find the shear failure mentioned interesting......never heard of that one, new builds with hangers? I have had experience with long term point loads causing a problem, frig sat in one place for a long time (years).....the legs just happened to fall mid point between joists = 1/4" deflection. No biggie for a frig, not so good for a tank. Then there's the builder issue - varies so much from one to another. Owned a townhouse once - 2x6 framing w/ engineered trusses for joists, likely could have driven a tank onto the floor w/o issue. Friend nearby had owned one & you could see the floor deflect w/ a small crowd Two builders, similar cost, two vastly different builds (of couse the one who built mine went out of business ). And then you never really know what's been done. Next door is selling his house (he was renting it out). He likes to use "white van" labor, cheap as possible. He's replacing the driveway (asphalt with concrete). One guy doing the job - qualifications???? I was watching........yep, he's using rebar.......too bad the rebar is laying on the ground & he's dumping the concrete over it.........functionality???? And who among us hasn't been @ HD or Lowes........overheard a conversation & thought - um, ah, even I know you shouldn't be doing that (i.e. see someone picking 14/2 w/ a 20a breaker) As I mentioned I'd be interested in the report - always good to hear from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. (of course I should disclose - my tank is on the slab, I wouldn't put in on the 2nd floor )

Yep, and couches often have legs = point loads. So 3 x 275lb = 825lbs = 206lbs on maybe 16 sq inches. On the flip side he does have a valid concern, while it would be just fine for the floor to give a bit with the guys on the couch......might not be so good with a tank. And don't forget the house, built to code or overbuilt? Location (parallel or perpendicular).

Consensus? Good luck with that I have yet to see any consensus on LEDs. Personally I think it's too early to tell, we haven't had enough time. We have a lot of success stories & failures........not enough time to weed out the real reason, is it the lights or other factors? Also don't forget what you're after - is the lighting for you or the corals? For example Radions have red....last time I heard Dana Riddle calls that "teats on a boar hog" for coral......red? Must be for the viewer. I can't answer, only have some blue, orange, & green corals.....so far they all like the LED. I have nothing red yet......I do have a pink, seems to like it.........long term? Color is fine for me, I used Phoenix 14Ks for years - I like that color & hate the yellow 10K stuff, but that's a personal preference. As I said good luck with a consensus at this point - the only one you'll get is that they save a lot of energy.

+2 I'd be interested to hear the results. While it sounds like a lot of weight it's pretty well dispersed. Your tank is 5 x 2 or somethling like that, right? That would put the load @ 250lb / sq ft - is that were a problem you couldn't have any...um, ah, er.....large folks in your house - they could easily exceed 250lb/sq ft (a person standing is about 1sq ft). Unless you have some point loads for the tank (i.e. leveling legs). But............I am not an engineer It would be interesting for all of use to hear the results (along with details of location). You mention near the I beam, parallel to perpendicular to the joists? I would think age of the house has little or nothing to do with it...........new & old I've seen some really cheesy stuff (amazing where they choose to save a buck)

Exactly. ASM better than Deltec....lmao, yeah, okay....because those POS Sen/Sedra pumps are known to be so good. Couldn't say how you managed it.......had one for 7 or 8 years, still running. Number of issues? Zero, zip, zilch. Even ran a week & a helf with a broken impeller shaft (I dropped it). Remora? Had one, POS. About the only worse skimmer on the market is a SeaClown. Must just be me though since I've only seen a ba-gillion "why doesn't my Remora skim" threads. Lot's of good efficient skimmers but if it will fit I'd pick Avast - why not support the local guys?

+2 My euphylia has put a beat down on everything within range..............heck even gave me one once when the huge colony broke apart & I spent too much time in contact.

I would do glass. I have no idea what/if you can cantilever glass.........but there is cleaning. With a tank that narrow about the only way to have any aquascape & still be able to clean it would be with a scraper (razor blade?) There is no effective "on a stick" method for cleaning acrylic. That means your hand & a pad or somesort in the tank.....that's 3 - 4" and where two sides are viewable that's 6 - 8 of 10" gone. Yep, you can think "my hand is only x" thick....but it ain't happening.....you need a bit more. Glass you can scrape with a razor on a stick. I'd choose glass.

Yep

The water level in the jug (top off) has to be lower than the water level in the recieving vessel..........the location of the pump doesn't really matter - once the siphon is started it can & will go "up & over" (think of a U-tube overflow)............or just create the siphon break - either will work fine. Kind of figured it was a siphon drain.........just didn't pump enough to hit the emergency drain? Don't have any experience with full siphon drains, mine was done before they were around (can't configure it now ). Seems like it just needs a "froghair" more open. I like the idea of a full siphon but that's the sticking point for me - seems too many adjustments. Years tell me that pipes slick up = more flow, pipes slick up a bit more less flow...... Don't get me wrong, I like them.......adjustments are better than trying to eliminate bubbles where the drain enters the sump.....

It's very hard to diagnose these problems w/o being there or at least pictures.............but........ Okay, I'll admit it I've had more than a few ATO issues over the years Sounds like you're actually facing two issues, one of which is highlighted by the other. ATO? If I had to guess it's a siphon issue. Unless the jug is below the recieving area (sump) it will form a siphon & continue until the water finds it's own level or the jug is empty. There are a couple of solutions to this, one is to create a siphon break which is easy. Tube from pump goes up to level higher than recieving vessel (sump) -> end of tube goes into larger tube -> larger tube goes down into sump If you just stick the end of the smaller tube into the larger one (can even be the same size, long as there's a "funnel" (i.e. reducing barb etc) at the end) you create an air gap = a siphon break. If you're not running a kalk reactor or anything else in the line you're done as it matter little if the water in the line returns to the jug........with a kalk reactor or other device in the line you'll need a backflow preventer (check valve). Also will work is a dosing pump, they don't allow a siphon in either direction........ain't quick or cheap though The second problem is being highlighted by the ATO...........I have a very strong guess you're drain is barely keeping up with the pump - that's the only reason for the level in the display tank to go up. The ATO isn't causing this issue, it's just highlighting it by putting more water in the system & making you aware of the problem.

Now you're just posting that to be snarky I never can get zoas to grow or even survive.........I even killed ones Gadgets promised me "couldn't be killed" That's what I was thinking...........if that was me I'd stick my hand in the tank and ..............crack, whump, !@#$%^@#$%^@#$% Seriously, looks real nice!

Define optimal? It's been my experience that Euphyllia, frogspawn in particular, aren't particularly fond of what is commonly thought of as "optimal" water conditions. Have you made any improvements recently? (just tossing it out there)

LMAO - that darn near cost me a keyboard.............it would seem we all think alike....hmmmm, how can I rationalize this purchase Sadly in my case the 1262 was an xmas present from my wife - she knows nothing about the tank, she does however know the pump (how do they do that anyway?)

I've been eyeballing that once since it came out.......low voltage, controlable (night mode, 7096...) - sadly now I'm in the position of hoping/waiting for a reason to replace the 1262.........like that's going to happen

I vote "nobody knows". Same as you - I've had some that never seem to have much if any extension & grow just fine. It certainly seems random as it's in the same tank as others that do????

I'll take your word on that....I don't really know it's full siphon capability If 2K is right you'd have plenty of room.....I'd guess my 1262 pushes in the neighborhood of 700 - 750gph that's maybe 4' up, 1" split into 2x3/4, and the usual "U" over an overflow box............or about one & a quarter 1" drains (not siphon). Though as mentioned @ 80w it ain't the most efficient pump on the planet. Just a FWIW - magnetically coupled pumps (most of those we use) are water cooled = little or no difference in heat transfer whether internal or external.

The 1500 is the closest match to the 5000, they come in similar sizes..........but no exact match. The real trick is findind the headloss chart - they are used as pond gyser/sprinker pumps.........which is why you see them in the "hamburger". Much like the Darts in the beginning they're used in ponds - I bought my first Dart from a pond company, weren't carried in any aquarium shop. BRK had some for the Koi end of the business We have to remember CoralVue started (with the current line) with the bubble blaster - a commercialization of the RC DIY thread making a custom volute for Askoll/Laguna motor blocks (cloning RD). Since they had the motor - a water pump was a no brainer. No before anyone gets annoyed I don't view this as a negative - smart IMHO. They moved away from the cheaper import pumps that had caused many a lot of grief *cough* Euro-Reef *cough* & tword a proven product = good business. My only .02 is $100 for their volute & impeller is a bit steep.........just my .02. Which is exactly why I'm still running a 1262.......not the most efficient but it's close to 10 years old & will likely out live me - it never fails. Cheap up front always seems to bite one in the butt........especially in this hobby. Interested to hear how that goes. Nice to reduce electric AND remove one more 120v device from the water! It may seem funny but so far there are only a few reliable (by my standards, 5+ years w/o a hitch.....and fewer still who have even proven that) pumps - Eden (Tunze AC, Eheim Compact) = we'll see Askoll/Laguna (Water Blaster, RD, Laguna) - good so far Eheim Hobby - proven, the gold standard Hydor Seltz - tough little pumps......not available for higher flow rates (max is 740gph) Ya think there'd be more I should learn to actually answer a question........... I can't say for the 1260 but a 1262 will easily overrun a 1" drain.........even after the "Up & over" to the tank - you'd be running on 2x1" drains full time.

If you want the waterblaster just get a Laguna - it's their motor block. Coralvue is simply re-branding. Laguna = $123 for the 1300gph (1500 actually) - WB = $210.................your call. Don't forget the Eden pumps..........sold as Eheim Compact & Tunze return pumps (the one you linked to @ BulkReef is the Eheim/Eden). Also there's the old standby the Eheim Hobby's - nothing as yet has come close their reliability. Can't think of their warranty but given I don't think I've ever heard of one lasting less than a decade I don't think it matters much.

Well that's interesting...........the remora is basically just a restrictor nozzle shooting into the water.........what could have come loose. If I remember when clean you can see through them..........can you hold it up to a light & see if you see something loose? Maybe it's the nozzle piece? I would think such a simple device would be easy to fix?

Only with a complete circuit, it will not trip without one.......period. You can take two raw leads & put them in the tank - if there is no path to ground it will not trip. I do not give a rats patootie what anyone says it ain't going to happen. I've done my darndest to prove it...........& I ain't saying how. With a path to ground they'll save your arse.......done my best to prove that also.

...........For the chiller to start trasmitting electricity to its titanium coil, which is the only part that comes into contact with the water, would mean that there would be some sort of short in the compressor....... Exactly, there should be no electrical connection between the compressor & the coil - if there is it's a failure. It should be isolated. No, not without a completed circuit (path to ground) No, just like you if you're isolated (no path to ground) fine. Like a bird on a wire, or the guys who work on really high voltage lines........path to ground? They'd be dead (well really depends on the path, but in general). They might feel the "tingle" but given the brain of a fish??? Doubt they'd notice. Set it on volts & yes.......one to ground, the other in the tank. Reading should be near zero. Plug in or unplug devices, watch reading change = you found the culprit. Sounds like a faulty circuit, I'd check it.