ErikS

Not really, the magic sponge gets right in there = easy as can be. I will agree on depth, mine's 27" and requires a step stool (stand + tank)...........and I wear 36" sleeves

Like every other material is has it's pros & cons. It is easier to scratch it's also much less likely to fail (when properly constructed) as there are no silicone seams to fail. It is also much more impact resistant. It also holds heat more than glass, can be both a pro & con. It's also clearer than glass unless you get starfire (or other). But it will scratch - upside is you can remove them. Cleaning isn't anymore difficult than glass, just requires more care. Mr Clean magic sponges work great for normal algae removal & pieces of acrylic work fine for more stubborn stuff (coraline). You can not use magnetic pads, least I've never found one that didn't leave micro-marks (which magic sponge removes). I've had mine up since 2003 (ish) - looks fine. Does have some minor scratches but nothing viewable from more than 2'. The scratches came from a piece of frogspawn falling over.......minor & cleanable. As others said with a sand bed? Glass. Too much chance of getting something between the cleaning pad & the acrylic. If the kids are likely to run their toy truck along the viewing panel = glass. Pros & cons, pick the one that meets your needs.

Thanks, I greatly appreciate it. I'll sound like an ingrate but given they seem to fail only after a few years I just work around them (can still use most of them as always on). Overall I still rate them as solid. If I ever get to the point where I need more controlled I'll probably look into fixing them (I have 3 DC8s, one as a spare).

While I've had great luck with Neptune products - their service is 1st rate and the products work very well. My ACIII is several years old and still going strong. The only issues I've had are outlets no longer being able to be controlled on DC8's. That being said if one has any kind of tech savvy the Reef Angel looks great. Expandable & budget friendly.....and if you're a code person the sky is really the limit (write your own functions). I'd wager we have a higher % of software folks in WAMAS than most other clubs. But correct, you do need a bit of tech ability.

I forgot all about API - I like the ALK test for quick & dirty. Easy as can be, 1 drop = 1 DKH......only issue is no 1/2 drops. Point was lack of clarity. I do as you mention (fill 1ml)....but...they supply a tip, a tip which makes it impossible to get a full 1ml. Instructions simply state 1ml, no mention of with the tip (relative 1ml) or a full 1ml. Leaving one to assume. Of the Hanna kits I've used I rate the ALK as okay, the PO4 is not. And given what I've read about the Ca my .02 is Hanna makes nice toys but that's about it, nothing to write home about. Good point, we often forget this one.....I use a Thermapen, accurate & quick.

Sounds like they've changed it a bit.....for the good. Every test I do with the Elos NO3 is "check with my wife - what color does it look like to you"

My .02 - I've used most all of them - I find most are decently accurate and convenience rules (more likely to do the test) 1. Red Sea - foundation kit is nice, the titration holder is great as are the coated cards (water resistant). Refills are also pretty cheap. Overall it's easy to use & they work. Of note - I never thought I'd say that about any Red Sea product. 2. Elos - kits are nice, good instructions, work fine, and generally easy to use once get past the "Italian-glish" of the instructions. Exception is the No3 test - old school "guess the color" test = too subjective. Elos Mg tests are unique - it's do one reagent, record results. Do another reagent & then subtract one from another? But it's far better than the old "filter reagent" that Salifert used to use (do they still?) 3. Salifert - same as Elos, though I'd give the nod to Elos as tests are generally the same (Xml of water, X drops etc) 4. Hanna - Accurate but I really, really dislike them. I hate using them though I do for PO4 as it's the best one available. Instructions are rubbish. Example - Red Sea tells you "fill until the plunger reads 1ml allowing an air gap". Both use a tip but the Hanna makes no mention of it.....am I to fill with the gap or fill until I have all reagent at 1ml? Impacts accuracy. The PO4 test must have been designed by an numbskull - Forrest Gump could have done a better job. Open the packet & get all the reagent into the vial? LMAO, yeah, right = tap, tap, tap.....dump & a miss. You can work around this but it's simply a usability fail. If I didn't need the PO4 I toss them in the trash where they belong. $50....ouch, let go my arm. Nothing about them makes them worth $50.....unless you're to lame to do a titration (see above, Red Sea makes this easy as can be).

Done a few & had some incidents over the years. I hate the JBJ, rubbish. It's the only one I've had cause issues with the tank. 1. Forget the name (more known for Kalk reactors) - he was like a Geo type. Used wired valves directly attached to the RO unit - good concept but his wiring was terrible. He had no concept of safety really - worked fine until I opened it up & saw the wiring Moderate cost, under $100. 2. JBJ - piece of junk. Yes, you can adjust the pump cutoff time.....but what happens if it hits the limit and then resets itself? It will pump to the cutoff, then it will reset = it will continue to pump water until the ATO tank runs dry. And bonus points you have to open the unit up & cut out the buzzer if you don't want that going off every time it operates. 3. Home made. After the fun with the JBJ I built one. Used an industrial mechanical relay from McMaster. Built it using scrap acrylic, an old 12v power suppy, and household outlets. Worked fine for years. Total cost was under $50 (used the old JBJ floats). 4. Tunze - never really worked for me. Might have been air bubbles from the new sump installed at the same time. High cost. 5. Avast - works fine. The +/- is a bit large but it works fine & has no moving parts. For $79 it's tough to beat. Currently in use with a BRS high volume dosing pump. Total cost is about $160 with the dosing pump. So far option #3 was used the longest, it never once in 5 or so years caused an issue. It never failed, no stuck floats, nothing. The relay was likely well beyond it's rated 10,000 cycles.....didn't show any signs of wear. It would have been under $20 to replace it (standard socket, simple plug in). So if it's working? Repairs (maintenance) is cheap? Why replace it? Don't we have enough to spend $$$$ on? Note - I changed due to a re-configuration, the home built no longer fit.

ROTFLAMO!

+1 But acrylic does stain (same as it absorbs water)

Just a FWIW - the Eheim Compact pumps are in fact Eden pumps - Italian. Good pumps & efficient.

First I apologize to anyone reading if this post is Nikon centric, it's the brand I know I'm quite sure most applies to Canon etc. Well that is a tight budget....but it can be done. Used is a good option, places like KEH, Adorama, and B&H Photo sell used gear. The D5100 I recently purchased was my 1st new body......the previous 3 were all used & refurbs - I have a budget. Just because it's a couple cycles behind doesn't make it "poor". I still miss my D40x - gave me gorgeous .jpgs right out of the camera. I need other features so I moved on but there's nothing wrong with a bit dated. You can get a refurb'd D3000 @ B&H for $250 & an 18-55 for $100 (or $95 @ KEH)......a bit over budget but close AND one could certainly find a cheaper body. ...........but........ We get back do you need a DSLR? Other uses, as you mention they ain't cheap. Give you an example, I have 3 cameras (not including the FS D5000). The DSLR is for ultimate image quality & when I need speed (grandkids don't stay still much). I have an Panny LX5 (high end point & shoot) for when I need real good image quality but I have to travel light. The third is for underwater use, a Pentax Optio W90 - snorkeling & days at the beach. Point is they all match my needs, like lenses on a DSLR - no point in a long telephoto if you're doing landscapes (well in general anyway).........or a wide angle for birding. Remember there's also software.......you can pretty much change an image to be anything these days. Three minutes in Lightroom - I wasn't there so I have no idea what it really looked like........... (and yes I could further remove the blue cast, point is to show change) There is a fair bit of noise in the picture but that's to be expected with such a small sensor - they work fine in bright light.....not so much in low light.

It all depends on what you want to do? Are tank photos your only use? As pointed out there are a myriad of options for this, even this iPhone might work. Do you have other uses in mind? Uses that make the cost worthwhile? In general terms you start with point & shoot/phone cameras = tiny sensors which means poor dynamic range (ability to capture information) and slow optics (see 1st part as to why). Then you move up to "enthusiast" point & shoots which generally have faster lenses and sometimes a bit larger sensor. Next is medium sized sensors found in many mirrorless cameras & some in the "DSLR" shape - they have a larger sensor which gives a greater dynamic range which equals more capability. From here one moves into the "entry" DSLR (various levels actually) which is APS-C (a compact version of a full 35mm frame) sensor. Once again greater dynamic range & capability. The last step (for general consumers) is full frame, a sensor the same size as 35mm film - greatest dynamic range & overall image quality. What you might need greatly depends on requirements & budget. Each of the above is in a different price range, & within that there's also a myriad of options. For example something like the D40 Jon mentions (maybe a D60).....can be had pretty cheap used (under $300). Not the latest tech but they work fine. New models like the D3200 are $650.......difference? Better sensors, while a D40 might be noise free up to about ISO 400 & decent to ISO 800........the newer model will be noise free up to ISO 1600 & good up to ISO 3200. That's a huge jump, it allows much greater flexibility. It all depends on your use - just tank shots? Try the iphone & see what happens. If you decide you need more......there's http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/51556-fs-nikon-d5000-body-only-250/

Cool, Nov should work for me. There's a bunch of Nikon shooters here, sure someone can help. Or there's likely a book (e-book) on the D70, DPreview..... We could start a whole thread on that much depends on your goals & needs. Here's a vid from B&H Photo that give you an idead of the various levels of bodies. A bit long but very good -

I could sign up as the "if they can do it, anyone can" student I'd be interested depending on timeline. Does "DC based" mean you're back in the area? If yes then glad to see you back!

Yep, I am not a professional but I have done a fair bit. Thinset, either modified or non-modified is the ideal.......but....that requires a bit of experience. Mastic makes it easy for Harry Homeowner, it should however never be used in wet areas such as showers. Given the mentioned location mastic will be fine. Yep again, notch size is directly related to tile size........so if you were doing a large tile on the wall 1/4" would work, general 4" or 6"? That would be as you said 1/8". For any reasonable sized tile V notch, square notch is generally used on floors (though I guess if you had a big enough wall tile??? ) A tip to avoid the "ooze"....when laying a tile start by placing the tile right up against the previous tile (touching), now move the tile away to desired spacing. Of note this works with single tiles, sheets not so much. Another tip - avoid glass tile unless you have experience, I know the wives like it these days but it's the most difficult tile to lay (you lay it blind, with paper on the outside = how do you line it up??????) Did it once......... Next up...grout Hate to break it to ya but that's got little to do with whether it comes down or not Either RedGard or Kerdi over green (or even regular) would have been fine. Example - use regular drywall screws with durarock = likely to fail. It's all parts of the puzzle, correct steps are what prevents it from coming down.

I'll not argue with you there.........but would seem this should be a lesson. You way....way...over extended yourself on this one & it killed fish. One rule you might consider is never, ever pickup fish on a round of errands - there's not point in it, none. If they're shipped they're packaged for such a trip....locally? Not going to happen, not going to make it all that long. In the summer they'll over heat, winter they'll freeze...........and they'll easily run out of oxygen. Coral can be quite a bit more tolerant, though less so of cold (in general). I might make a few stops....but the list you give? Never, just asking for trouble. Fish? That's a straight there & straight back.....even then I'll make arrangement for summer or winter (heat packs & a cooler). If I can't do that the solution is simple - don't go, period. Can't even begin to say that.........way to early to tell, especially with coral. I agree with your priorities - however with all you have on your plate I'd seriously re-think a reef tank. Given all that's on your plate you're pretty much the show "tanked".

Personally I'd go with Coral Hind's approach. Unless it's direct contact green board will be fine. If you really want overkill there's a competitor to the concrete board...........it's a fiberboard. Much lighter & it is waterproof. It is also a stone cold ***** to work with, it dulls everything I've thrown @ it in short order

He's A..L..I..V..E Great to see you posting...........or are you just doing it to put the rest of us to shame That's an understatement - Mr. Gadgets is seriously talented behind the lens (as well as growing coral). Though I will say his OCDish penchant for an ultra-clean tanks......seems disturbing to me

Yeah except that in a few years this just might be the weather in December You have to do what you have to do............for me the tank is low in the priority list, household stuff take precedence.

+1 One of my favorite places, love Bonaire! No help on the camera, just seems cannon has wider support with add on's?? Also always liked their OOC jepgs - they seem to excel @ this.

Pretty much describes them. Never started a fight but never backed down either. Everything was fine as long as the other fish allowed the cherub to go where it wanted when it wanted........try to stop that & then it was on. It was often comical to see much larger fish so befuddled. Chase the cherub & it would dart into some crevice only to come flying out somewhere else & hit the fish from behind. More than one fish ended up in the middle of the tank swimming in circles while trying to figure out where the blue blur would hit from next.........then as soon as it gave up trying to prevent the cherub from going somewhere all was peaceful again Hadn't thought of the title. Pretty long I guess, certainly longer than it likely would have had in the wild........but.....that's my philosophy for fish in general. You take it you accept keeping it alive as long as possible. Like the mentioned clown fish - I may make fun of it but I do my best to keep it alive for as long as I can - I often completely fail at this but that's the goal (which is why I never take them out.....I accepted the contract so to speak).

Thanks all.........It's mostly just bummed because I never noticed. You know how it goes, don't do head counts everyday (the youngest fish I have is about 3yrs?) - you just watch the tank, sometimes it take a few days to "see" things. Last time I remember seeing the fish it was following the purple tang & picking on rocks....... I'd say it was pretty tough, it survived all the mistakes I tossed at it The maroon clown is about the same age, I got $20 it makes the full twenty years it could live......rat bastidge

RIP C. Argi 1997/98 - 2012 Had a fellow member over on Sat talking tanks & Bs'ing in general. Looking in the tank & it I notice I don't see my cherub angel.....hmmm, that's odd he's always the first one out & about (been cleaning all morning) - not the shy type at all. Spent some time later watching the tank, don't see him. Ah, bummer, must be gone. Turned off the pumps & scouted the tank....no corps either. I'm guessing it was old age, stocking hasn't changed....besides he's survived all manner of changes over the years. Tank changes, crashes, fish changes - you name it he's been through it all. None of the tank mates could or would take him out....never picked a fight, but never backed down either. On the humorous side - he always swam next to the purple tang, like a shadow (they settled their differences years ago w/ the angel's usual "leave me alone & I won't have to kill you"). Now the purple tang seems a bit discombobulated.....swims around almost like "where is that little PITA" Thinking back on it I'm pretty certain it's the first fish I've had go from age. Only real bummer is that a fish which such good genes didn't get to pass them along - certainly one tough fish, survived a lot during it's life. Now I have a maroon clown that's just a tad younger........it couldn't have been the one to go why? (I'm betting that one's got twenty years in it)