cpeguero

Just food for thought - I QT everything, and I know I’m lucky to have space to do this. Even without that, if you set something temporary up so you could go fallow for 76 days, then follow the Hybrid TTM that humblefish put together: https://humble.fish/community/threads/hybrid-ttm-to-treat-more-parasites.87/ you get after most of the things you would come across without needing that much space. I use 5 gallon buckets with a piece of PVC for shelter, InkBird with swappable probes, heater, and air stone. Doesn’t take up much space at all.

not sure how often they get in new shipments, but it may be weekly. I think they’ll also do special orders.

I know the original thread was looking for local, but since someone posted about online orders and fully QT’s fish, TSM Aquatics (up in New Jersey) does a full QT of fish. I’ve ordered from them and been happy with the service. If you live (or ship to a FedEx pickup) in MD, you get cheaper shipping, or at least used to be that way. I’ve bought several fish from Reef Escape as well and been happy too.

That’s really awesome! Both that you e got two that have lived so long and that you stuck with it! It’s exciting to see the success. I hope these two make it all the way.

If you can’t do a separate circuit, at least a separate gfci outlet in a separate junction box a little bit away from the other. Make sure when you wire it up the first gfci doesn’t shut off the second one. All about keeping the two out as separate as possible to minimize the chance that a single event takes out all your power to the tank.

I’d recommend two separate circuits (separate breakers), if you can. Both gfci. Keep your critical systems split between them, so if one trips, your tank survives long enough for you to notice and fix the problem.

To add a little to my initial response, as I’m re-reading your original post: If the tank and stand won’t fit in your own vehicle, uhaul rentals are plenty cheap. Honestly, the only things I’d focus on with your move are fitting the tank into a vehicle and securing it, and the path you have to take from its current location to your moving vehicle and then from the vehicle to its final location. It’s about as complicated as moving another heavy piece of furniture.

When I tried to get movers for my 260, no one would give me a quote for it, not even a local aquarium shop. Ended up planning and doing it myself with a few friends and equipment. for a 125, you should be fine with a few friends. I’ve moved a 150 with just 2 people. Even did an older 125 with 2 people. The club had suction cups you can rent for cheap. If you have a couple of helpers and the suction cups, and do some thinking about the different steps in the move, you should be just fine.

I’ve had various iterations of backup batteries in the past, but went whole hog a little over a year ago and installed a whole house generator. 😁Now all the livestock in the house stays happy. 😃

Cool. Thanks for the info. I do want to add some other small fish and cleaner shrimp, but since the tank is pretty well fed, I may go ahead with it. I also have a couple of biota mandarins (which I haven’t seen for a while, though not that surprised) that are tiny. I expect I’ll see them more when they’ve grown a bit, so perhaps I’ll wait until they’re a bit bigger before adding the betta.

How has your experience been with the marine betta? Been contemplating adding one eventually, but worried about it with inverts and smaller fish.

Definitely interesting results. Metasorb is another product that absorbs heavy metals (just used it to try to get rid of excess aluminum in my frag tank), but of the cuprisorb will get the tin, use that. would be worth taking a good look at all your equipment to see if there’s any corrosion or other exposed metal. Basically eliminate the potential sources you can directly investigate. Once you’ve done that, and used the cuprisorb, I’d do another ICP test to confirm tin is gone. After a few more weeks, do another to confirm there isn’t still a source of tin. If there is, then going down the list of things to fix, in order of increasing work/expense, run an icp on your source water (though I think you may have done this) both tap and ro/di; you could replace the flexible tubing with another material or switch to pvc, and then, the ultimate is to upgrade your tank…… I’d be surprised if the tank glass is truly the source. I would think that any residual tin would get rinsed off fairly easily.

The melanurus may get a bit large for the 40. Not sure if others have inputs on that. Also, the six line wrasses are often bullies. YMMV, but have heard plenty of stories of six lines getting mean.

If the pvc isn’t glued into the bulkhead where it comes out of the tank, I’m surprised. I’ve had the internal riser not glued in, but any connection that is supposed to be watertight should be glued. i agree that it doesn’t seem like the source, if the water is dripping from where the bulkhead comes through the glass, but I’ve had enough mistakes with things temporarily fit together coming apart that I wouldnt trust any connection that needs to be watertight if it wasn’t glued.

There’s nothing thing to tighten on the inside. The nut you see on the outside is what you tighten. Hold on to the threads that stick out u see the tank as you tighten to keep it from rotating, though it likely won’t be an issue as you tighten it. see image below - haven’t always seen a friction washer as in the image, but the rest should give you an idea of how it works. The “body” is what sits inside and sticks out through the hole in the tank.