fishgate

Aluminum screen or just the frame is aluminum? I don't think the aluminum will hurt anything. I have been using it for years on the top of my tank with a screen to keep fish from jumping out. Gets wet and salt all the time doesn't seem to effect it at all.

The below one is great, I've had it for over 5 years no problems. Also there is a lot of research to suggest that proper moon lighting does wonders for coral. It is thought to be very important for coral breeding. I don't think it is a gimmick. I have the "actual" moon light controller from digital aquatics that mimicks the actual phases of the moon in both intensity and time including full moon and no moon days. Not to mention it makes the tank look cool at night! http://www.amazon.com/Coralife-01692-Digital-Power-Center/dp/B000CMKHR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439217890&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+power+strip

Schedule 40 is fine. But schedule 80 has a larger diameter so depending on your holes, you might need to go with 80. No difference in life. I always go slip/slip. Threaded leaks frequently. Use PVC compression fittings for ease of removal. For the bukhead wrench, you don't need to tighten much more than hand tight. But a large pair of plyers should allow you to snug it enough to prevent any leaks. I get most of my plumbing parts from Amazon. Local big-box stores rarely have anything and LFS screw you on price. Oh I'd seal up those bottom holes if they are not in an overflow.

Just a plus 1 here - I also had a Cobalt heater die in the tank and burn up. No damage and no loss of livestock but I will never buy another Cobalt product again.

You shouldn't do any water changes while your tank is cycling. Stop doing them until you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites. I'd go ahead and get a reactor and some GFO now. Using tap water you are going ot have a LOT of phosphates in your tank. It will take a long time removing it once you go to RO/DI. Great start!

Your heart is in the right place, but you don't understand what happens when you open a bag that has been in transit for a few days. The ammonia immediately spikes up when the bag is opened from ammonium (ammonium converts to ammonia) from fish waste and the fish breathing. 20 - 30 minutes MAX is all you should ever do to drip acclimate. Your fish could easily will be dead within a couple of days doing a 4 hour acclimation. The correct way to acclimate new fish is to find out what salinity and temp they are at before you buy them. Then set up a quarantine tank of these same parameters. Float the bag for 10 minutes to equalize temperature and dump them in as soon as you open the bag. Drip acclimation is the worst way to acclimate fish to your own environment and can be avoided with proper plannning. Your 4 hour drip acclimation is almost certainly what killed your fish.

4 hours is WAY too long to drip acclimate and could be the source of your problems. A buildup of ammonia in your new arrivals bags could have killed them or at least started the process. Search for the recommended way to drip acclimate.

Also get a GFO reactor if you don't already have one.

That is very odd. Usually when the skimmer is in deeper water it will overflow and produce more bubbles. Not the other way around. If it is new, it takes a good 2 weeks or more to break in. But take off and reattach the air intake nozzle. It should seal with the pump and not allow any air to leak out. Going full siphon is a bit more involved. You need to have the primary drain stand-pipe with no air intake hole so that it just draws water only. You also need a secondary drain stand-pipe with an air intake hole (open channel) to take a little extra "trickle" water to help balance the system. And it is also recommended to have an emergency drain stand-pipe in case of a clog. If you have a single corner overflow with 2 holes, it isn't a good idea to go full siphon with that it could lead to a flood. You need a more powerful pump since a full-siphon drain is significantly more flow. Upwards of 1200gph. Putting a gate valve on your drain will help you to lower the flow to match what your pump is capable of. Also - I assume you know there is an adjustment for the skimmer to vary the water/air mix right? Turning it one way increases bubbles and the other reduces them.

Your skimmer, if those bubbles are coming from it, appears that the intake air valve is not seated correctly. The only place you should have bubbles on the skimmer is through the hole to the collection cup. Any bubbles from anywhere else is a problem. The way to eliminate bubbles from your drain is to go with full siphon. That will require a fairly strong return pump to keep up with the flow and/or a valve to reduce the drain flow if needed.

Looks good! Great price on glass too!

I realize you are probably already too far in to change, but I highly reccomend you reconsider the 55 gallon footprint. It is (IMO) the worst of the worst tanks to use for a marine tank. It is too narrow, too tall, and most are not drillable for a future sump upgrade. I suggest a 40b (breeder) for your first tank. It is an excellent footprint and will make a nice sump when you are ready to upgrade. I also suggest a GFO reactor for algae control. Less is more with feeding as well! What filter are you using? Generally marine tanks should be run without conventional filters. The rock and protein skimmer are your filters. Traditional filters tend to increase your nitrates which will cause a lot of algea to grow. Don't put any fish in the tank for at least a month if not 2 or 3 months. Don't cycle with fish. Temper any advice you get from your LFS with their desire to sell you product!!

I'll never understand what is so hard about cleaning something before you sell it. Sheesh what a disgusting mess!

Only use glass - check out this thread (mine) I put in the sizes that I used. All glass is 1/4" fully finished edges. 1 piece of glass 17 3/8" x 10 1/2" The height of this piece is dependant on how much depth your skimmer requires ($14) 3 pieces of glass 17 3/8" x 9" ($42) http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2270518&highlight=how+to+make+a+sump

Thanks! Given this, I hope the OP tries it and reports the results. Being able to combat ICH in the DT would be great.

I've looked at that before and found mixed reviews. Isn't this something you feed the fish?

There is no effective non-copper based treatment for Ich. This means Coral and Inverts could die if treated. If you don't treat all your fish may (probably will) die from Ich.

Get two of the below. "Make and offer" of $25. I did and they auto except it. Got it in and no problems. I use two of the below on my RO/DI system so I can check the health of the membrane and DI resin. http://www.ebay.com/itm/370298984978?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Who's going to do it out of acrylic? Yes that is a bad idea! But glass is super simple. Make sure you use GLASS baffles. DO NOT use acrylic baffles with glass! This is documentation that I wrote when I did mine. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2270518&highlight=how+to+attach

Amazon has it all.

Making one is not only WAY cheaper but you will get a better sump. It takes about an hour to make the sump.

You only need 1 GFI on the line. Don't do the breaker box GFI it will cause more problems down the road. As someone else mentioned, lights can trip the GFI. Some GFIs are very sensitive and some of your equipment might trip them continuously. If it was me, I would simply remove the GFI from those devices. This is also one reason to not have a whole-circuit based GFI.

Algae Fix works well for GHA. Use half the dose 2x and watch it go away. IME pretty much nothing will eat it. GFO is important get a GFO reactor and replace the media monthly. Water changes as well.

UV is very effective particularly on algae. You don't need to worry about killing anything beneficial but don't add it until your tank is established. Flow through the sterilizer is critical and determines what it will kill. Slower the better. Plan on replacing the UV bulb 1-2 times per year. They become ineffective very quickly after about 6 months. Brand matters!

Bottled water is not RO/DI. I would not have used that for your tank water. It is the same as your tap water.