makai531

I have some zoas overgrowing a 1" sq. tile and I want to split the group into 2-3 groups. This will will the first time I've fragged anything. I have watched quite a few videos on the process and think I understand enough to do it safely for me and the zoa. Here's the question- quite a few of the zoas (single polyp) that I've acquired recently have the polyp mounted to a fragment of a frag plug, then mounted to a separate frag plug. I haven't seen that method explained online. What's the purpose of the in-between fragment piece?

Thank you Wheresthereef. Your comment about slip vs thread made me remember that I do have a 3rd 1" BH (slip-thread) that I can use. It did not "match" the others as it has a significantly larger flange. If it will fit behind the box, I can use that as the primary drain. 5. As far as the valves on the returns, it's wise and necessary to install two gate valves, one for each individual return line, to tweak the flow, right? 6. As far as a shut off valve near the pump, should that be a ball for quick shut off in an emergency, taking into consideration each return may have their own adjustable gate valve? There will be a check valve there too. Worried about too many appliances killing my return pressure of the MAG5. I have a tendency to overthink these kind of things to the point of stalling. Anyone else that can comment I'd appreciate it. I'd like to buy some parts today and Lowes is not around the corner.

Tank is drilled and painted and I need to get moving on the plumbing. Please help with any and all advice. 75g with two 1" drains in a CPR overflow box. Bulkheads are slip-slip. Two 3/4" returns BH thread-thread. Sump is a Eschopps RS100, two compartments (no refugium). Future plans may be a 29g DIY sump with refugium. Plan to use a Mag5 return pump until budget will allow upgrade to DC6000. Pretty sure on this, but can't swing it now. Need to buy all fittings except I have braided vinyl in 3/4" and 1" and a 3/4 true union. Here are my diagrams- Drains Returns- Questions- 1. Any problems with or suggestions on my diagrams? 2. With the mag5 being underrated for tank and future upgrade of DC pump, will a ball valve suffice for return, above the check valve? 3. Should I install gate valves for both returns ? 4. Am I correct that the emergency drain just needs to empty into anywhere into the sump, not necessarily into the filter sock? I'm sure I'll have more questions, but this is a good start. Any and all help is appreciated!

Another quick question- would it be wise to do all the plumbing prior to installing the overflow box or doesit matter?

Rich - me too on the CCA.

I, as well as a friend of mine, have Reef Octopus BH1000 skimmers on our tanks. It pulls a lot of gunk out of our tanks. It's $190 new, but if you join WAMAS sooner or later you will see someone offer one up for half the price. Once you get further into this, you will find a sump is the way to go if you can swing it. I do not have a reef ready tank and have a HOB filter and skimmer right now. It's ok, but would look a lot better without all the stuff on the back. I started in fresh too. Welcome.

You have the most awesome zoas!

Leak test will be occurring after the painting of the back. Hopefully I can get that done by next weekend.

Ok thanks! Now I can start working on my plumbing badge.

Yeah I know Was just checking the fit and for the picture op! But while I'm here, when the bulkhead gets installed, the gasket is the only seal for them right? No silicone or Teflon tape, right? I know gasket on the inside.

I earned my drilling badge today! 4 holes drilled in my 75! Yeah!

BH-you caught my attention with that story! Glad you are road to recovery. I'm fairly local to Pasadena, so if you need help with the breakdown, please let me know. Willing to help.

Dark circa- what kind of symptoms did you get? I I've gotten itchy once after I handled my anemone, but I recently got a few zoas and want to be careful.

Welcome!

mcfarland maramc@comcast.net

All, thanks for the advice. Wildcrazyjoker81, thanks for the link. That build is exactly what I was imagining in my head. Nice to be able to see it in practice.

I'm moving forward with the 75 g. My next step is to drill and plumb it. I decided to do a Herbie overflow (1 full siphon, 1 emergency overflow) using 1" drains and a 3/4" return. I've bought my bulkheads and internal overflow box ( RSS18 - 12 1/2" L x 4" W x 5 1/4" H (Up to 200 gallon tank), and have hole saws and a 3/4" Loc-line return on the way. I hope to initially use a mag 5 pump until funds allow me to upgrade to a dc6000. Questions- Positioning the box? I was considering putting the overflow box in the center of the tank for esthetics (good views from 3 sides. That would put it right below center brace. I'd also have to route drain pipes around back center support in stage stand. Is that a good or bad idea? If I do center the box, would I need or want to have two returns or would one suffice? When I mount the box, should I mount it so it is flush to the trim? That would make the bottom of the teeth in the box 1" below the trim. I was thinking the overflows should be drilled as low as they could be in the box as I could adjust the drain heights as needed. Good thinking? What level in the tank should the return be drilled? Any specifics on that positioning? Here's a photo- excuse the stuff in the tank. Testing for leaks and cleaning it with vinegar, so I decided to soak some AQ stuff I needed to clean:)

I'm working on a stand for a cube and I would advise you to oversize. The problem with the 24in stand is that you are so limited with sump choices. The only tank that will fit into two stands I have for my tank is a 10g or a custom which is out of my budget. I would think that there is zero downside to having a larger area under your stand.

Welcome to WAMAS!

Ewww!

As happy as a clam! Lol. No seriously it seems to be doing great.

Very nice!

These are definitely not a part of the clam. They are right inside the interior edge. The exterior of the clam is very clean. I checked it well before it went into the tank to avoid unwanted "hitch hikers". The problem is they are inaccessible when clam is open and when closed tightly. The only thing I can think of is to put something just into the edge of the clam, to keep it from fully closing (if possible to sneak up on it), then tweezing. Unsure if that will stress or damage the clam? Is the risk worth the benefit?

Last night I used a flashlight to check out the activities in my tank after dark. I founded that my 4" clam has two small sprouts of what I think is Aptasia. The problem is that the attachment points are inside the clam shell. During the day, it's mantle covers them completely and when the clam closes, they are on the inside. Any suggestions? Worry about it or not?

Nice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk