rrbigdog

Here is pic of my simple reef controller using only a raspberry pi, a 4 port Relay, temp probe and float switch. Found some code to modify for my use... I still need to work on a better web interface but this works for now.

I assume you mean cooling starts at .1 above (RT+-0.2) otherwise won't they conflict.

There are quite a few projects out there that use both the raspberry pi and the ardiuno to expand the number of devices. I picked up a uno board had it communicating with the pi over usb. After I get done playing with what the pi can do by itself I might see about expanding with the uno. I just wired my float switch and I have my ato script running now.... I have used the majority of the GPIO pins that the pi has so for more devices I would have to expand with an arduino.

Been playing around with the Raspberry Pi.....Have a digital temp probe, 8 port Relay board hooked up and tested. Realistically with no other hardware the PI will have enough pins to handle 6 or 7 outlets. I have modified some free available code and have it running a heater script now.... Its running Apache for web, SQL database, Python scripts. I think this will turn out to be a inexpensive alternative to monitor and control a small system. Has graphs, etc. Need more code work but it's getting there. Long term, will take all the wires and bring them to RJ type jacks for external cables to the temp probe, relays, etc.

For your 12v PC type fans......these work great. I have one powering my (2) Fans inside my canopy. http://www.ebay.com/itm/External-Power-Supply-12V-DC-4-Pin-Molex-Adapter-Cable-/360170366699?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item53dbd3a6eb

That would solve having to add an ardiuno to expand. I will have to really look at that option. Thanks again. You all have great ideas where is the prototype? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Nice link thanks. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I'm waiting on a few parts. I ordered a waterproof temp to test with. Once i have the wiring all done i will look at building a Web front end to control it. And yes it has both USB. I might try the lcd touch screen. Will have to see how it goes. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

For those not familiar with the project.... It uses these to provide outlet relay switching. This is the 8 port board that will be wired normal outlets. Also a pic of the raspberry pi... this one right now is running my telephone system with many features and tied to google voice for free phone service...

This is going to be my next DIY project.

I have seen some projects out on the net that use a Raspberry PI ($39) as a platform for a reef controller... It will be able to provide network and webpage functionality along with some control for switching some relay boards. Has anyone tried this...?

I think you will end up wanting more flow than you are anticipating. I have a Mag 9.5 on my 65g but I ordered a DC6000 to replace it. I find the Mag just introduces too much heat in the tank. The specs on the Jebao says low is 475gph so it gives you room to crank it up if you need more flow. My Jebao DC6000 will be delivered today....can't wait to test it out...

I also rotate (4) 4" socks. I have a mix of 100 micron and 200 micron. I just sit them in a 4" PVC drilled with holes and the socks fit nicely on top and the overflow just drains in the sock. I did the PVC to keep the sock from interfering with my skimmer...

The pump looks like the Mag Model 2. See specs. 250gph http://www.pondpumpdepot.com/subcat270.html

You can so the same thing with the apex breakout box and wiring in float switches. I use a aqua lifter as the pump. Works great and I have all the features you described. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Most likely those are virtual ports. One other note.....use outlets 4 and 8 for small pumps...those ports have relays. So you should move the heater to one of the other ports and save 4 and 8. Example I use outlet 8 for an Aqualifter pump for my ato....has small power draw.

FYI, The fish-street website says internal only....no external support

I believe that would be break out box.

I would check the neptune support site. I was ready a post the other day of someone doing this same thing and they had some issues. I think they eventually had to reset all the outlets. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

here is the spreadsheet I was referring to: http://reefbreeders.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Light-Intensity-Program.xlsx

My max is 65 blue 35 white. There is a nice spreadsheet on the reefbreeders site to set up sunrise sunset. You put in your max blue and white and it creates a nice sine wave for a 12 hour period. I molded the sheet for a 12 hour blue and 10 hour white. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

pm me the meeting number

you can start a meeting and let me know the number so I can join. or you can join my meeting and I will show you some examples. either way..

yes... Light 3_1 is your outlet 1... You can rename it when you configure it. But you can have duplicate names so you will either have to change the name you set earlier on the var_1 outlet or create another unique name Do the same for 3_2 and 3_3 and whatever outlet you moved the vho on.

If you are willing to go to the site join.me we can do a share screen session and we can get this working for you realtime. Your choice.