bqq100

Well turns out it was the hose that was damaged, not the fitting. I trimmed 1/2" off the end, reinserted the fitting and it's leak free again.

One of these in 3/8. I don't think I've ever seen them in Lowes or Home depot before. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-garden-hose-utility-sink-adapter.html I think push connects are less likely to leak at a drip rate. But I feel like threaded fittings are less likely to be affected by movement/pulling on the tubing and spraying all over the place. Last week I moved my RO unit and I think the tubing got pulled at an awkward angle at the fitting. I tried readjusting the tubing and making sure it was all the way in but it still sprays water at the fitting.

Sump? I just bought a clown at quantum yesterday and today he took a ride down the overflow. Took him less than 24 hours!

Anyone know if local stores carry them? Was making water tonight and had a small "water event". The quick connect fitting on the hose adapter seems like it gave way and sprayed water all over for around 15 min. Do they make them with screw fittings instead of the push connect? Good thing it's in the laundry room with a drain in the floor or the wife would have killed me.

For a frag tank of similar dimension I am planning on using a PAR38 bulb. However if I was putting together a display tank that size I would probably go with DIY LEDs and one of these: http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/dim4-4-port-led-sunrise-sunset-controller-v1-0/ I love that it's a controller that doesn't need separate drivers for up to 12 LEDs.

I will be thrilled if my fat finger no longer gets me into the outlet edit screen when i'm trying to turn something on or off!

d2 sold

b23 sold

I'm pretty sure I got IP Cam Viewer to work by setting it to "Generic URL". I can't verifiy that it works right now since I'm on Wifi at work.

Just finished setting up my DIY dosing pump to dose kalk. Kalk is dosed separately from my ATO in order to have better control over the amount dosed.

I love my low range phosphorous checker. Also considering getting the alk checker too, especially since it's a doorbuster at BRS...

Great write up, I completely agree that no one setup or plan fits for everyone and that everyone will have a different cost/benefit analysis. My current ich contingency plan (never needed, knock on wood) is a few home depot buckets, couple of heaters, and tank transfer. That works for me because I only have a couple of small fish. I also don't think I would go the full 8 week fallow period because I don't QT my frags so there is risk of ich coming back into the tank anyway. I wish there was a study to see what the real risk factor is for frags/inverts to bring ich from an infected tank to a sterile tank. Whenever I read another thread about marine velvet I re-evaluate my plans and consider going with full QT/copper treatment, but I haven't convinced myself to go that far yet. Disclaimer: I am also far from qualified on the subject

I plan on picking one of these up soon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AASU6XS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ZL7S7NE8D6K8&coliid=I15NRRCYGXJEVM Small enough to store pretty easily, and enough to power a heater and a powerhead for a little while.

Will shipping be before or after Thanksgiving? Going to be out of town for the long weekend and would like to avoid adding new coral before going away.

Thanks guys, good to know i'm not the only one! I already make my water in large batches (at least as large as I can) on a weekly or bi-weekly basis. I also thought about adding a tee and valve before the DI, but I really don't want more valves and tubes coming off of the RO/DI unit

What is the TDS after the RO membrane when you first turn on the water? For my RO, it starts at about 130, but drops to <10 within the first 60 seconds, and <2 within 2 or 3 minutes. Is this normal? I usually flush the RO membrane for the first minute or so while the TDS drops to < 10, and flush again at the end for about a minute. This has been happening even after replacing sediment/carbon filters and replacing the membrane. TDS post-DI is 0, so I'm not too worried about it, but it would be nice if I could fix the issue and save my resin a little bit.

Bummer... I am planning on switching my return pump to the DC3000 in the next couple of months. Wonder if I should reconsider.

Sunday, preferably after 2

I can relate to that story, but luckily my tank escaped unscathed. 3 weeks ago I was getting ready to leave for a 10 day vacation. The day that we left, I refilled my ATO bucket and added fresh kalk powder to it. Long story short: first night away ATO kicked on and must have dosed some slurry from the bottom. pH shot up to around 8.8 and precipitation locked my ATO float switch in the high position (APEX stopped the dosing before the pH got too high). 10 days without Alk/Ca supplements and without any top off. Without any top off my low level float switch would eventually kill the return pump, but I was able to override that through the apex web interface.

Do you have DSL or FIOS through Verizon? I'm pretty sure with our FIOS when the power goes out, the ONT will only support voice calls when on battery backup. In that case you wouldn't get the email/text message notifications if the outage was for the whole house.

If the screen capture you posted is correct, you have the heater set to "ON". If you want it to shut off based on the program you need to set it to "AUTO".

Kalk stirrer won't fit in my stand, and 2 dosing pumps seems like overkill for the little amount of 2 part I need to add. I wonder how bad things would get if 1 gallon of saturated kalk was dumped into a 29 gallon system. I agree, using it in ATO water seems pretty aimless. I have been testing Alk/Ca frequently. My first couple of batches of kalk topoff water weren't enough, and I'm pretty sure my current batch is too much. I feel like dripping it will give me much better control over how much is added over the course of a week.

Any idea on how much kalk would nuke the tank?

Right now I am adding kalk to my ATO bucket, but after a close call (due to my own carelessness) while I was out of town for 10 days, I'm considering switching to dripping kalk instead. Here are some of the concerns I have for making the switch, but I think the pros outweigh the cons... Line clogs and drip stops - Can help mitigate by making sure container is free of precipitate by pre-mixing in a second container and periodically cleaning the end of the tube. Even if the drip stops for a day or 2, my usage is low enough where it shouldn't be a major issue. Overdose due to valve failure - Can needle/ball valves fail in the open position? Regardless , I think I will control the drip with both a needle and ball valve for better control of drip rate Changing drip rate - Keeping container/end of tube clean should help prevent this. Will still change with changing level in container, but this is still much better control than with my current ATO/kalk setup. Limited reservoir capacity - I can fit a 1 gallon reservoir in my stand for dripping. Right now I think I need ~.45 gallons of saturated kalk per week. 2 weeks is great, but even if my consumption rate doubles and I only get 1 week I think I'll still be happy. No remote control - Can't turn on/off through my APEX, but this is more of a nice to have than anything. Any other issues I should look out for?

Well for the hydroids i pulled out the ones i could easily reach and get them out from the base. The rest I'll leave alone until I'm back from vacation... Then it's kalk paste time!