Fantastic meeting!
Thanks to the organizers, speakers, vendors, supporters (raffle donations), and last but not least, the volunteers. Especially the ones doing the grilling
I can't wait to test out the Bayer-dip method.
A good way to remove it without popping is to use a siphon tube draining into a bucket (during a water change for instance), then use the edge of the tube to scrape at the base of the bubbles, so that they come loose as a clump and get sucked into the tube.
Even if they pop, the contents will get sucked into the tube and out of your tank.
Bucket water never goes back into the tank. Have fresh mixed water ready.
It's not wireless by itself, but is wireless compatible...
"Compatible with wireless bridges or game adapters (802.11x) so that wireless network communication is possible"
Just like the regular Apex.
How well did these two get along?
I had a strawberry basslet (aggressive) in with a much larger blue velvet damsel (has teeth). Once the initial aggression was finished, they got along fine.
Are you looking to get rid of the dottyback?
That's a great idea.
But for people without the proper tools, eggcrate is the way to go. That's what I did, just left a slot in the screen top.
Poking a hole in the screen makes complications whenever you want to remove the top.
I have a DIY screen frame with a double layer of bird-block netting. Thin netting, strong, no light blockage, easy to clean (salt creep), doesn't trap heat from the lights.
Can build in less than 30 minutes. All parts and tools cost less than $20.
That looks like a good kit for the price.
To the original poster, I would be sure to look at someone else's tank and LED light before deciding if it's right for you. Color and shimmer may be quite different from what you are used to right now with t-5's.
Apex on reef tank.
If you want web control, Apex Jr for a FOWLR tank or a less complex reef (especially if you don't need a display or can borrow one for initial setup), otherwise RK Lite.
I'm not implying that you haven't, but have you researched this technique?
Whenever I read about it in the past, the recommendation was to remove the affected rock if possible and place in a different container with tank water to ensure that the decaying hydroids did not release anything nasty into the display tank (toxins, or things that would effect fish or corals, or just dump organic waste that would cause parameter spikes).
Also wear safety glasses.