Annap729

yes, i believe the parts are: LEDS Drivers Dimmers Heatsinks wires Powercords(?) Lenses-I think i am going lens-less as my fixture is about 6 inches over water, and buried inside of a canopy. Anyway, i'm wondering what the parts cost would be, and then if someone wants to build, what would they charge? I know we can do group buys, etc and i've sort of followed the posts, but i'm looking for a simple answer....$200 per fixture, $150 per fixture, etc. I only hear that cree is the way to go, and any other LED's arent worth it, blah blah blah. i sort of feel like it's splitting hairs tho, as long as you get the right spectrum and don't overdrive, what's the big deal?

Okay everyone. Looking to build 3 units. They will run on my 6' long 125 hung inside my canopy, and these are the features i want: Cree LED Dimmable 14k-20k final color Timers as well What is my list of equipment, and what will the entire solution cost me? What are the newest features coming out in LED's that one might want? I know about dimmability to control color, and timers.

Come on Jan! HAHAH totally kidding. All good! I actually have decided to go with Biopellets instead of GFO bc Origami explained how you sometimes can run into walls between phosphates and nitrates. Plus I like that its a natural bacteria filtration where the bacteria is processing the Nitrates and phosphates. I'd run that with Bio if i'm you, but that is just MY $.02 . Ultimately I think i'm headed towards zeovit, but i'll get the biopellets under way and see what happens.

I have seen them, yes. I wanted to find out what everyone else has to say from their experience. I may end up doing the Biopellets and carbon thing.

lignite vs rox-- is it true you need nearly double the amount of lignite? BRS calculator says so. i was going to just use lignite bc it's HALF the cost. i know i have to rinse it a little more in the beginning too, but that's not a big deal.

So basically what i'm hearing is that with a dual reactor you end up with the gfo not tumbling at the rate it really should? the simple solution to this of course is to play with flow every few days, but this is the main issue?

Good to know. Okay, now i'm getting somewhere.

Okay, but what about the right pump for that job? Doesn't the type of media dictate whether or not the pump is strong enough? Lets say i go with a dual reactor and one pump...is that enough flow from one pump? what would i use, a t and individual ball valves for each to dial in the flow? If i DO go dual, is it really that bad if I take both offline for 5 minutes to change one? Just want to make sure I understand everything.

are there any disadvantages to the dual?

is the chemipure grain size too small? does the stuff ever come out of the reactor canister?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of these. 1) which is better- two single, or one dual? the dual obviously has two reactors. 2) I see BRS sells the high capacity GFO and Rox Carbon, which supposedly requires less media for the same effect. Which material is ideal to use? My understanding is that they need to tumble at different rates. Everything I see recommends using a maxi jet 1200. 3) Should i definitely use MJ1200s?

Great patterns on the clams....thanks again it was worth the trip.

For me, I have very good water, so I won't exhaust my DI resin quickly. I'd suggest first testing your existing water as the burden on the system would help you understand the cost to operate as well as how high of a membrane you can get. For me, at 45 psi I can barely fill 40g overnight, which is about what I need in the event of any issues. Again, my RO side is already cleaning my water to 0TDS, so the 150 gpd works for me. You'll never get 100gpd from a 100gpd membrane. So I'm sure Dow and everyone makes good membranes, but if your water isn't crappy to start, then you'll be fine. I say for major infrastructure purchases like that, spend so that you don't have to spend again if you end up with a bigger tank. I'm running about 220 gallons between two tanks so for me I really need minimum 40 gallons overnight. The bigger membranes aren't that expensive and everyone is right- they let more through. But again, if you are inside of 100tds or so on your water, i believe youll have no issues at all. You should borrow someone's handheld tds meter and check your water where youll be installing it to see what the quality is like before you buy. $.02

Air water ice. Marissa's your girl. Hate to say its a no brainer, but there's something to be said for dialing a number for support, and within two rings THE person that supports you answers. That alone would make me pay extra (yet its cheaper). I bought the typhoon 3 extreme because of everyone's suggestions about needing everything and it being all jn one. My water is only 70-80tds at the tap so I bought a 150. Right now I'm getting 0TDS before the water even gets to the DI cartridge. I'm super pleased. Its the best of the best. I use every single extra that came with it except the TDS alarm. Call and talk to marissa-you'll buy one before the day is out; she's good.

From what I'm hearing it goes in the middle chamber, the collection cup at level. But im still comfused-There is a cylindrical piece that appears to attach to the end of the airline, but I'm not sure how that controls air flow. Maybe it doesn't even go there and a regular control valve does? Below is my light mod-it came with a k2 150w viper and I put a 14k Phoenix bulb in it. The problem is that it lights the entire half of the room as its too high. So it's now 5" lower with this quick booger-rig carpentry job.

Hi all, i'm stuck- I bought a 24g JBJ Nanocube and it came with a sapphire aquatics skimmer. I can't figure out how to put it in. Does anyone have any experience with this? it sits WAY down in the back left box. do i put a sponge underneath? not sure what to do here. Anyone's help or expertise would be greatly appreciated.

Zyg, are you saying i don't really need phosban and gfo in a couple reactors? that would be cool.

I read a few blurbs about it being on the white side and things a little washed out. I'll look more into that. I know tank lighting is so subjective but it's good to hear what each person likes. I'm ok with some good actinic, I have corals that would be good to see pop.

that would be awesome. let me know!

thanks for the tip. can't find it anywhere. i see ushio, coralife, and maybe a couple others.

Does anyone have one of these lying around they want to sell?

Phoenix doesn't sell a 70w bulb so I'm wondering what is the best for this size and type of bulb.

Anyone have a 70w double end MH they can spare? I'd rather not go a couple days until the replacement shows up.

Ok so the smallest one is 75. Can I get away w that one for Gfo carbon and perhaps zeo? Lastly, thoughts on pumps?

Any input on which one of these are better? I am about to pick up a couple and am wondering what everyone thinks.