jaddc

You can use chaeto plus gfo. You need to change the gfo often if your levels are high. Once you get the value low, then you can change the gfo less frequently.

+1 on the molt. The crabs always hide out for a few days after a molt. Other way to look at it is that the crab died prior to being consumed by the coral. I just can't imagine any coral eating a live crab.

I guess practically, a dip wouldn't hurt the Zoas. So if it is convenient to dip (i.e. if they are on a plug on not on the whole rock), then dip. Otherwise, just be patient.

I wouldn't do anything. They are not closed completely, so they are probably acclimating. If they start dying (melting away in goo), then I'd take them out, cut away the dead polyps and dip the healthy ones. J

I got LR/LS from that was cultured in the ocean (Gulf of Mexico). I also recommend that if you want tons of microfauna. You can also buy pods on the net.

I have never target fed my zoas. That said, some of the larger polyps will capture food. When they do they close up to ingest. I think you are getting to a deeper issue that many have discussed at length. That is the balance of SPS coral, which need clean water, and everything else, which likes a bit of dissolve organics and nitrate to really thrive. There are many opinions and few answers. I'm experimenting with soaking my food in Selcon and then adding that to water. The water gets a bit cloudy with Selcon until I turn the return pump on. Everything is growing well and my nutrients are in check.

To be fair, sometimes the spores are microscopic so even close inspection of frags won't reveal the algal hitchhikers. J

I found this helpful: http://www.mrsaltwatertank.com/4-ways-to-remove-bubble-algae-from-your-tank/ Jeff

I too have that system with rails. It is too close so I am going to use the hanging kit soon. Why can't you use the hang kit? Also, to use the lunar cycle you need to have a minimum of 04% on the blues. 08% is best for the most effect. JD

Hey all, I have a small colony a neon green Zoanthids from Dr. Mac. A few (20%) of the polyps have morphed on me. The oral disc became larger and the tentacles also grew longer. The color also faded, but hasn't browned out. If I didn't know better, I'd say they were palys. These are not hitchhikers. The polyps actually morphed. My Orange Zoas on the same rock don't this. None of my other Zoas in the tank do this. Water params are within spec and all other livestock exhibit odd behavior. I have a Spongodes next to the colony, but the morphs are not next to the Spongodes. In fact I have a few "normal" polyps right up next to the Spongodes and all looks fine. Anyone had this happen to them? Any thoughts as to why? Jeff

+1 Also, while a portion of the bacteria indeed dies off, a portion simply goes dorment. A tank with dorment bacteria has a shorter "re"-cycle than a fresh tank.

Wow Byrnes! You treat your bacteria with some TLC!

I used tampa bay saltwater, which is the same idea. Loved the company and the results. Cycling was a breeze. However, there are a ton of hitchhikers and that is a matter of preference. Most good and cool, some obnoxious. I much rather look at a tank with a ton of cool stuff. Bottom line is that if want a reef tank, I'd probably go dry rock because it is easier to aqua scape and there are no hitchhikers. If you want a fowlr or hybrid, then the farmed stuff is a nice addition. If I did again I would go maybe 50/50. Put down a base of dry rock and then the farmed live rock on top. It would be cheaper that way.

To avoid fouling the water, I'd do a little bit each day.

Looks like a mespilia globulus or tuxedo urchin. Chip is right but I recall that the tuxedo is gentler than most urchins because the spins are shorter. They will chow on coralline, but it grows back pretty fast.

I have two sponges from TBsaltwater. They both have grown and they'd probably grow faster if I added my phytoplankton in my feeding regimin. J

The trade name I have seen is "yellow ball sponge". Check out tbsaltwater.com for more info on Florida sponges, they have a few.

These books are on par with the pricing for similar reference books in other hobbies/topics. The publisher increases the price to compensate for the projected low sales volume relative to the classical literature involving vampires.

^^ Oh good tip!

If it were me, I wouldn't use the vinegar. You already pulled a lot of the phosphates out with your Phos Free. Keep the rock in a rubbermaid with 35 ppt saltwater. I'd heat it to 75-80 degree and keep the water moving with a powerhead. Then I'd toss in some bacteria potion to start the cycle. After a week or so you should be good to go if you change at least 50% of the water daily.

^^ +1 Just cycle it outside of your tank.

Ouch! Can you quarantine the little fella for a little while?

Hey all! When does the speaker usually start? Don't want to be late for that! J

So the GAC seems fine (especially since you also did some water changes). Maybe add 25% more when you change it out, JIC? Maybe change it weekly? If you have decent flow, the the GAC should pull out the toxins pretty fast. Whatever the GAC misses, the protein skimmer will pull out. But what you described is pretty standard, and I have not read anything about mushrooms pumping out so much toxin that your regimen couldn't handle it. Cubes of copepods or other zooplankters? Maybe feed 2x a week? Could have been surviving for a long time, but not thriving, and now they are withering. Good luck! J