Der ABT

im still gonna go majano but ya never know.....i had never had them always thought they were brown like aiptasia....got two on a frag a long time ago, let them chill for a few weeks till i realized what they were/big enough to id....tweezers and gone.... would be cool if ti was a fungia....though....did yuo introduce the rock from another tank or anything like that.... find someone wiht a point and shoot camera or bring the rock up near the surface

Stop making me want LPS....nice pieces and pics...

hair algea and briopsis are from no water change in SEVERAL months....auto feeder dumping a TON of food in the tank twice at least, had the mj1200 feeder to the biopellets stop....this pump is also the feeder to the CS1 skimmer....so basically was skimming nothing for a while...and tavelling too much to notice (at least thats what i tell myself) lights are probably 2+ years old (maybe even 3) so im sure thats not helping, im just going to get things in order before i change them out cause im cheap like that. New tank will replace my double frag tank set up (40breeder and 30 cube) since the stand they are on i initially built for a 120g with the same foot print (just made the stand about 6in bigger on all sides 54x30) ....after i sold the tank and had the stand i was going to try and find this tank but the prices scared me into the 40 breeder and daughters cube i already had........but found this at a price i couldnt resist...... ive been running all 3 tanks indepently and do not have time to do taht anymore.....so will combine into a single sump etc (also had one of my small skimmers die) and or may just tie it into the main once everything is how i want it and i have all the corals i want thru qt etc...or just shut the connection off when i need to type of deal... so now wil have the 156 main, and this tank which is about 80gallons (48x24x17).....i think it will look alot nicer and gives me a chance to really clean things up i hope...

put some thought into the size of the doors you make, how you will stack them when working on the tank....where they go etc etc etc..... there are alot of hinges you could use too, if you have a door that is small enough it could rotate around the side 270 degrees etc and then have the center removeable or on a slider to move to one side or the other (pocket door slider or drawer...i like the pocket door ones cause they are easy to take off the track i like the vinyl covering though, you could get the carbon fiber look alike stuff and put it on some ply...hey i know someone that has a piece of plywood for free

im gonna go Mojano...still hard to see with the pic blurry but just google mojano green.....pretty sure you will unfortunately find your answer....get rid of them asap

Basically it's an avast marine pressuRe switch...it stands upright and senses when the water level changes...lok on the website...that thing works great...if you don't want it let us or me know haha I'll put it to use in the frag tank

Im in love with these dimension....48x24x17 and rimless to boot with a small eurobrace Tiny bit more progress..... hood skeleton...ran out of wood (scrap i had was just BARELY short) will be 2 d120s cut in the center sitting on top and 2 54w t5 inside....flip top with a kick stand much like the old 90g....should be about 8 in off the water. took off the black painted bottom, will be painting white for reflection/increased light along with the inside of the hood. slow but at least some progress. missed the water change last week so hopefully will get to it this week...freaking briopsis and hair algea factory.... RODI is actually working right...been thinking something was wrong but new tds meter states different....about 200 going into RO, about 2-4 coming out, and 0 coming out of DI....just under 60psi with the new flow restrictor (up about 5 psi) Corals and coraline have been liking the past few water changes so im kinda suprised..... may actually put a pic up soon..... Frag tank has a CRAZY diatom issue....probably cuase i keep forgetting to empty the skimmer cup...but when i get things moved over that will all change.

man looks great....really like the sand mound with some on top look....could see that as a pic in the wild. id say gobies for movement and color....but lionfish could be cool against the painting above....just dont release it in the wild haha...i hear they made it up the potomoac (haha not really but) so last thing we need is a west coast invasion.

BE VERY CAREFUL with yuor choice of anything sunlight supply (Galaxy Ballasts) ....while i currently run a dual 250 galaxy i will be switching when it dies i bought one a while back new....at just over 2 years old, like 26 months...less than 3 years (the warranty period) it died on me, sent it into Sunlight on my dime....they told me nothing they could do, i asked about warranty and they said its not covered....told me they could give me 30 dollar credit...yeh.. the warranty is FULL REPLACEMENT for 3 years>......yeh right....there was no misuse, no water damage nothing, just a failed component inside and Sunlight supply has shut down their aquatics side.... google found a few other stories very similar.. i bought this while i lived in blacksburg online..the online vendor didnt do much of anything....after repeated calls back i ended up with an offer for a POS magnetic single ballast to replace my dual.....more phone calls and emails over the rediculousness i htink i ended up only getting about 60% of my money back and will never shop at that "(water) Cave" online store again (replaced "aqua" with "water" to not use names..) back on point of ballasts Graham....any chance you have a 250w PFO m80 laying around....slap that thing up next to the blue wave....i found a large difference despite both being m80.....that PFO was the best ballast color and par wise i ever saw on my 250 radiums......just wish i could find them again...to the naked eye the color was less blue than the bluewave...par was a bit better...granted i was on spider reflectors in a hood. Funny to see everyone going back to the radiums or t5s....i have the LEDS on my frag tanks and will keep them there, they can keep the color just fine for the most part.....but my main will always have MH i think...that radium is just too nice.. ive seen severl tanks now with radiums and a strip or two of LEDs instead of a T5....tanks looked good an to my suprise the leds really made the Fish colors pop more...something i dont ever really hear talked about..... especially with anthias and more of the orangy/pink fish...or could just be me.

mojano?....if it looks like a lill anemone....im going to go with mojano...and get rid of em quick. need a better pic....usually free things arent good...usually

What is with your tds meter...are you reading right next to each other.? Usually it's out of the membrane and after the di...not both after the di that needs changing Sorry to hear about the eye...I've done that once and it took a day or two to be normal ...I'd agree most likely zoas...... Or you spilled water and your better half got angry....you can tell us the truth....this is a safe place

This is where hoarding is a good thing haha...well thats what i tell myself. Just got an update from ERC......Marcos is as usual the man.....i explained fully what happened and he started workign on this right away (even before posting)...low and behold he is working on getting me new parts (drivers, leds, and possibly a board) most of it under warranty......talk about going out of his way SO need to say a big thanks to ERC....if anyone else is seeing this issue i would suggest talking to him first and see if he thinks he can help, if not you only wasted a pm....i did it expecting to just say he can you still get me these parts for the old fixtures...thinking it was power switches at first...then started digging further and found the led issues that im pretty sure was unrelated to the drop in......makes fleabay/reefbreeder/etc that much less enticing for me....heck even that amazon deal for the wp60s..

I believe they are 3w underdriven to 2 somethign if i remember correctly....again for the price i wasnt expecting the best of the best. and yes thermal paste was used on alll of them...amazing how far a little of that goes...and glad i only bought one tube. Holy cow...that reefbreeders link is nuts.....i think they were 25 cents when i ordered them extra...at most 50 cents.....luckily i had enough but if something further happens who knows....i do have a 3rd fixture i have not yet checked..

It is a D120 ...no heat sink version...so its about 2-3 years old i think....but id have to double check it was one of the early ERC group buys if im not mistaken...and had constant use since then. they arent technically burned up...they still fired and were teh correct color...but the lense/dome part of the actual led (not the optix) im guessing got hot and burned or is just old....So far it was primarily (90-95% of those that failed/burned) the blues...which do get the most use hour wise...had a mix of 450/480/ etc..... though there were a few whites that did this as well... but its not all the leds on the channel just a select few (channels go diagonally) and in the above pic you can see it the top row right side 3 leds show it, 2 on the blue channel one on the white channel when i had the optics on the other one (Fix B) there was no way to tell/see the leds like that (i had no optice on the fixture that swam (fix A) .....but when i put Fix A back on next to Fix B, it was noticabbly brighter so i decided to investigate and ended up replacing more leds on the one that never went swimming. Still beats replacing T5 or MH bulbs if you ask me (though i still do that on the main tank...dont think you will ever pry my radiums from me)...if it was EVERY led on that channel id think something was up...but may have just been the batch of leds these fixtures had in them were not the best...i often hear leds have a varience among each batch. but i am no expert i am just a little better at soldering now...and i stayed at a holiday in express once

Maybe

So far he has been pretty good, had him almost a year now and havent seen any zoa's disappear. once and a while there is a certain frag that is taken off the rack but could be the yellow tang or him going after some algea growth (there is plenty of it too) and there never seems to be missing polyps....there are a few smaller acro frags in there and they seem to be left alone also.. im sure its luck of the draw,....mine is a juv...and im guessing if you kept them well fed it wont be a problem...know of several in sps tanks taht seem to do fine...i cant wait to put him in the main.

little bit of an update....missed the last water change but will hopefully get to that tonight or tomorrow. had to fix my D120s, the fixture that dropped in the tank ended up working just fine after replacing the drivers....then i noticed this on the one that went swimming another that has never been swimming....... ..notice how some of the leds are BLACK....should not be black....ended up having almost all of my RoyalBlues (450nm i think) just get old and "burn up"......did a bunch of soldering and low and behold fixture is 10 times brighter...only problem is i am now out of spare leds (well blue ones) and drivers otherwise fish are doing fine....blueface should be ready to go into the main now (been in the frag for a long while but is getting bigger)..cant wait. new note .... picked something up.... will update more soon.

looks great, drill some holes in that board and feed the wires through (need to do this myself)..ive got a few pics from another guys tank on r2r or rc that is freaking amazing, ill see if i can find the equip box he made. CS3 is looking purdy. Also those clams look HORRIBLE, they need an immediate and perminant transfer to my tank. quick question though...is the bucket directly on the floor? if i where you i would build up a floor and add some 1in or so trim all the way around, then seal it up so that it could hold any spillage.....cant tell you how many times ive had this happen to me now and am glad i kalked all around the stand so water cat get under it (though im on concrete so wouldnt affect it as much as the wood)

ive had better luck with Cloram-x than with prime http://www.hikariusa.com/solutions/waterconditioner/cloram-x/ not sure why but didnt read the part about the sand bed being moved....i agree most likely culpret....but seriously check on the cats or finding a way to make sure they cannot squat over the tank/sump...had several friends swear the cats dont do it and then set up a video camera to catch the action after doing all sorts of other things to try and find the problem. moving a sand bed is really hard if you ask me, another reason i love barebottom.

amonia alerts dont always work, ive had one fail and lost several nice fish in qt....not happy with them and do not trust them alone. Amonia...you have a cat....my money is on the cat finding its new litter box

Ahhhhhhh....those pics are worse than that giant worm Sorry to hear man.. I've had much skimmer dump back inthe tank and never had issues...but also didn't do alothat of changes at once....I'll bet the rowaphow carbon helped...but I'd also look for something metal in the tank. ..battery etc

I thought it was a calcium recovery team

walked out of my building and saw this and started to laugh...

ive got a stock tank you can borrow...drain.... dry...epoxy sand on the bottom ...should take about 20 minutes (or so you could tell the lady)

you can always put a tupperware with sand in there (just use some marco mortar to build up a ramp so to speak so it looks like a natural sand shoal) its hard deciding on sand or not...personally ill never do anythign but bare bottom...i painted the outside bottom of my tank white and it made a BIG difference in light and looked alot nicer if you ask me. the only nice thing about not having the sand dwellers is you save a TON of money, not as many jumpers and you dont think you lost them when they are sleeping or hiding.