Nate

Looks like Aiptasia. A family of Peppermint Shrimp should do the trick.

Very nice! Love the rimless tank...so professional looking. It does look very dark in the pics. Do you have any full shots showing the entire setup? Would also like to see your frag tank.

Jesus Bob! I spy a halide pendent...whats going on...T5 not good enough? Do you have any recent pics of each frag tank and its contents?

I received one tablet of the 23mg Milbemycin Oxime (51-100 lb dogs or 12.1-25 lb cats) which according to Melev, should be good for 400 gallons. The system I am treating is 120 total gallons. So I crushed the pill and split it into thirds. Started my first following Melev's dirrections, 6 hours of treatment, then a 30 gallon water change followed by carbon. After a week of treatment, I did a thorough investigation of the corals that had the worst outbreaks and saw not one red bug. But I am playing it safe and going the full 3 weeks. I don't know what to say. I followed Melev's directions very closely and used more than was needed. Each does has about 133 gallons worth of interceptor. Still have some pods but no sign of red bugs. I will be doing my 3rd treatment on saturday.

I am currently on my second week of treating all my sps with interceptor. It will not kill snails so you can leave them in there. The pods should be ok too. I have noticed a decline in the pod population but I still have quite a bit crawling around. I am following Melev's directions and everything seems to be going smoothly.

There are about 50 astrea snails in each tank.

Ha ha...no, it is actually GSP that is all retracted because I was blowing the detritus off it.

More Updates!

Just to add to your list... a UV sterilizer will also help.

UPDATE!!! I moved the frag of Hulk Zoas from my frag tanks to my 120 main display and a week later it is Dictyota free! I saw some hermits picking at it. My frag tanks don't have hermits and my main tank has an ARMY of them. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

Ha ha...Phil, it's the little things in life.

So you have 3 lumenarc mini stealths? What kinda of bulbs are you using?

Raise your magnesium levels to 1500+...Kent Tech M

The Docs know how to treat their customers. I place many orders through them and will continue to.

For future problems, simultaneously press the "ctrl" button and "+" to make the text larger and "ctrl" and "-" for smaller text.

Sweet...I want one!

+1 I have that same Dual Reactor. I love it. It is very easy to replace GFO and carbon since the canisters are RO/DI canisters. It does require a maxi-jet 1200 which I think is overkill. I have to cut it back almost 75% to get the GFO to tumble the way it should.

Wow that room filled up fast! Are you going to put some panels on the stand to hide all the equipment? Nice Yellow Belly pics by the way.

Updated pics! I am preparing for a red bug treatment so I removed all the rock and sand to make room for a new frag a rack. Then I moved all my acros into the frag tank system.

That looks a lot like what I have. THE THREAD

First off, I don't collect "brown corals." The best example of a frag being washed out by 10k's is a frag of ORA green birds nest. My main tank has 14k's and my frag has a 10k. I broke off a frag of the green birds nest that was in my main tank and put it in the 10k. Months later not only does it look washed out under the 10k, but when I move it back to the 14k tank it still looks almost completely washed out. Therefore the answer is yes, corals get washed out under 10k lights. Weather it be natural or not, NO ONE wants their once beautiful corals washed out...everyone wants fluorescent eye catching corals.

Forgot the most important thing! 10k's will most definitely wash out your coral's colors. All the frags in my 10k tank have almost completely lost their true colors. It takes about a month to loose them and another month to get them back when put back under a higher (k) rated bulb. That is another reason to go with a 14k or higher bulb.

Typically the lower the kelvin rating (K) the better growth you get. For example: refugiums do better with 6,500k - 10,00k bulbs because the agale is photosynthetic and feeds off of the lower spectrum. When you start dropping the kelvin you will notice the hue getting more yellow, but as you raise the kelvin, the hue gets more blue. It all depends on your preference. Most people who run 10k halides supplement it with some sort of actinic pc or t5 since it is so yellow. On the flipside, a lot of people like using 20k bulbs because they get the best "pop" effect out of their corals. I personally think 20k bulbs by themselves are too dark. That's why I prefer a median like 14k. Its got the blue color and will help with growth. Here is a Kelvin Scale for a better understanding When it comes to mounting halides. When using large pendant reflectors, I like to keep them about 16 inches above the surface of the water. Again though, it is all preference. When I had reflectors at a foot or closer I noticed substanctial temperature spikes. I would also recommend going open top with any halide. Another thing to consider is that the halide is also capable of heating the entire room it is in...I use fans aimed at the surface of the water to help keep temperatures down. ONE more thing Bob, when adding corals to this new halide tank, start them at the bottom to get them use to the stronger light.

I run a 250 watt halide in a double ended luminarc steath pendant with an ice cap electronic ballast. I have this over one of my 40 gallon frags tanks and it seems to do the trick. Only thing I would do differently is use a 14k bulb. I am currently using a 10k for growth purposes but it is so darn ugly.

Go to a sign shop and get a roll of what ever color vinyl you want and just stick it on. This way you will have no mess or smell, and you can peel it right off if you don't like it. Try for something thick like "fat head" wall graphics...like 8 mil or something. Or just see if you can find a vinyl that has a less aggressive adhesive. I know they make stuff that is designed for drywall so it can be removed without tearing the paint off the wall when removed.