zygote2k
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Posts posted by zygote2k
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Looks like lobophora. If it's calcareous, it should easily break into small fragnments.
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As this is a saltwater forum, your best bet is most likely Craigslist.
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For a 6' tank, there's many options. 3) Kessils and a Spectral Controller are the cleanest and easiest to set up and you can grow anything that you can find here on the forums.
If you have deeper pockets, the Radions are very nice and make a very nice 10k-14k light blend, but are not as user friendly as other lights and require a computer to set up.
AI's are also nice whn combined with the AI controller.
As far as used lights go, buy any of the above for far less than you'll find new, or go old skool and find one of those antique T5/MH fixtures....
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That trim looks like it was overheated by the halide. I've had that happen to the same tank twice and then we stopped using the center halide and there were no more issues with cracked trim.
It's not the fault of the tank, but the lighting application itself.
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Sixline will only fight with other fish or simply terrorize them. vicous little monster. The Starry Blenny is also another mean little fish.
flatworm Exit will work, although you might have to do a second treatment in a few weeks to fully eradicate them.
Turf algae could be many different species of algae- need to identify it first.
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Everyone says "don't pop them"...
How do you think the rabbitfish or emerald crabs eat it?
A common algae found on drag plugs.
As started previously, pop the coral off the plug and discard the rest.
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my advice on plumbing-
use a union check valve, then gate valve, then pipe to manifold and return.
sched 80 is a waste of money/overkill when using in protected spaces.
turn all piping so that the lettering isn't visible from normal sight lines.
do not use purple primer- only use clear medium base glue. (red can) if your pipes/fittings are dirty, soap and water works best.
valve on the drain does nothing- flow is controlled by the pump valve.
in the picture, the easiest way to route the return is to go around the top of the sump. this allows for support of the pipe and keeps torque of the valves to a minimum.
also- since you've sterilized the rock, the only diversity that you'll get is what you introduce. this often has the effect of having a non-complete cycle and you might find that dealing with normal issues like diatoms, cyano, and algal problems take far longer to correct.
in my opinion and from my experience, using the best quality LIVE rock is the backbone of a successful reef tank. If harvested and shipped correctly, the live rock can contain millions of microorganisms and be loaded with much macro-life including coral, sponge, plant, inverts, and sometimes fish. I've gotten 2 tiger gobies from a single batch of rock from Florida.
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I see nothing wrong with that silicone. The seal is intact and its just the inside edge that is darkened. Worry about some other aspect of your set up and leave this issue alone unless its leaking. then you'll buy a new tank.
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another thing- don't read your test results in or around aquarium light. read them under natural daylight or a light that gives good color rendition.
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The amount that I'd charge to reseal a tank is about the amount that a new one costs. If the tank were an unusual size or irreplaceable, then I'd consider a reseal, otherwise, just buy a new one.
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Nardoa starfish eat asterina starfish.
sometimes.
In all reality, it's super simple to siphon them out of the tank in the early morning before the lights are on when they are on the back wall and sides of the tank. In a week, you can decimate the population.
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We've been using Mag Drive pumps for 20+ years.
Cheap, easy to service, parts available at the hardware store.
Dc pumps all fail as the technology just isn't there yet- even had a Vectra with a fried motherboard.
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I have yet to see any real benefit from using a sterilizer other than to clear an algae bloom.
When we serviced the petsmarts, they had a unit with 8) 40w bulbs just to keep algae blooms at bay. There was no other use for them.
Killing disease parasites probably works if all the parasites go through it, but that only happens in a lab, not in a real world aquarium.
Good for algae blooms, hype for everything else.
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Welcome back to 1990. We made those things in a bazillion combinations and used every pump imaginable to power them.
Then cheap powerheads came out and that was the end of those contraptions.
I made one sandwiched between flat rocks to make an arch 32" across and 24" high on my very firat service account, a 380 gal reef.
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getting good, fresh live rock goes a long way to establishing the micro-life like pods and other small critters.
The majority of the rock available today just doesn't have the diversity that's really required to have an amazing tank.
Try to find some Pacific Live Rock that is shipped in water or get some aquacultured rock from TBA.
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Put a small rubble pile in one corner of the tank. They will be found there soon after....
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2.5 months old? If you were doing the tank the right way, you'd just now be maybe adding your first animal like a snail.
John Tullock and the people of the past didnt "cycle" tanks in less than 60-90 days.
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I suspect that it's a holding system and not a dedicated/medicated hospital system.
As far as QT'ing of fish locally, I have a dedicated 300g QT system where we nuke fish for 2 weeks in copper, then a 150g holding system where we hold them for an additional 2 weeks before selling them.
I suggested Live Aquaria because the client didn't want to wait a whole month to get a fish.
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Contact at sales@purereefsystems.com
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where does one get such fish?
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I have a vague memory, from back when BRK was changing locations, of Johnny talking about the QT system, and saying something about the new place not having enough space for the QT stuff he had going on in the old location. Of course he would have to speak to this issue himself.
I believe QT is really the customer's responsibility. A good LFS will educate customers about setting up and using a QT, and answer any questions about the procedures (in exchange for the educating, the staff gets a chance to sell more stuff, for QT equipment/supplies). A good store will also inform customers of the salinity in the shop tanks, and whether or not any copper or other chemical treatments were used.
Most shops don't have space for routine QT of all incoming livestock. If they are paying higher rent to have the space for it, plus using more resources to do it, then they should also charge higher prices and all you demanding customers should be very happy to pay more than you would at some other place.
with that said- I don't know of any shop in the area that does real QT process- and that's why I suggested that the customer order from LA.
FWIW, our shop (not open to the public) has a dedicated fish QT system where we nuke fish for 14 days in copper, then place them in another seperate holding system for observation for 2 additional weeks before being placed in various client tanks.
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I second for asking Brendan of Pure Reef. Leave a message on his forum page and he will get back to you with a price. I'm sure he's swamped with building reptile cages currently. I'll remind him to look at the forum...
I just picked up a 3/8" all abs sump from him- 40x24 and it's solid as a rock.
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One of my clients ordered fish from Live Aquaria only to have 6 out of the 7 die within a week plus 4 of his older existing fish.
Looks like velvet.
I heard the LA customer service rep tell the client that they QT their fish "up to 2 weeks".
This seems rather low amount of time for QT.
Second Scopas tang addition?
in General Discussion
FWIW, I have a tank with 2) Yellows, a Scopas, A Purple, 2) Desjardinis, and a Hippo and none of them fight .